Recently, in connection with the emergence of new varieties with excellent characteristics, interest in remontant strawberries has increased significantly. The opportunity to harvest large tasty berries throughout the season interested even those summer residents who considered remontant varieties to be something of secondary importance. The agricultural technology of such strawberries has its own characteristics, but it is not too complicated.
What are remontant strawberries, the best varieties
Remaining is understood as the ability to harvest several crops during one season. This property is inherent in many cultures. The repair strawberry has been known for a long time, but before it was not so popular. There are varieties that give several harvest waves per season, and there are those that bear fruit little by little, but continuously, from May to October. There are small-fruited, the berries of which are almost the same in size as those of wild strawberries, and large-fruited, the berries of which weigh about 50 g, and sometimes even more.
Large-fruited varieties are grown much more often.
In general, remontant strawberries require even more attention than ordinary ones, so it can hardly be recommended for novice gardeners, as well as for those who do not have enough time to work on the site. Among the many known varieties there are those registered in the State Register of the Russian Federation (both of domestic and foreign origin) and those that are successfully grown without official approval. The varieties from Holland, Germany and the USA are considered the best, but they are not universal either, so when buying seedlings, you should be very careful about your choice.
The list of the most famous varieties today can be presented as follows.
- Mount Everest is a high-yielding frost-resistant variety that bears fruit with large berries (about 50 g), characterized by a sweet taste and strong aroma. It can be grown both outdoors and in greenhouses, and is popular in Siberia.
The Mount Everest variety of remontant strawberries is popular in Siberia
- Prima donna - many consider it to be the best variety adapted to the conditions of the Russian climate. Sweet large berries, good crop transportability and high frost resistance explain its popularity.
Strawberry Diva is one of the most delicious
- Selva is a strawberry capable of producing sweet and sour berries weighing up to 75 g, bears fruit from May until frost, gives 4-5 main harvest waves. It easily tolerates severe frosts, but reacts hard to winter thaws. Differs in ideal disease resistance, but not everyone likes sour berries.
Selva strawberries - for lovers of sour
- Ali Baba is a small-fruited, mustacheless variety. It bears fruit continuously, due to which it has a high yield. Berries weighing no more than 5 g, aromatic, sweet and sour. Drought-resistant and winter-hardy variety, disease resistance is above average.
Ali Baba bears fruit without interruption
- The coquette is a domestic variety, does not form a mustache. Berries with an average weight of 20 g, orange-red, sweet and sour, aromatic. Tasters' assessment of 4.6 points out of five. The variety is winter-hardy, but not very drought-resistant. The disease resistance is average, but it is strongly affected by the tick.
Strawberry Coquette is rated very high
- Garland is a well-known variety of domestic selection, characterized by a very early ripening of the first harvest. Berries weighing up to 32 g, dessert taste, juicy. The yield is not less than 1 kg per bush, winter hardiness and drought resistance are at an average level. The disadvantage of this variety is its poor tolerance to wet weather.
Garland - dessert variety
- Elizaveta 2 is a variety that bears fruit with very tasty large berries (tasting rating 4.7), bears fruit in waves from June to October. Productivity is high, winter hardiness is moderate, disease resistance is above average.
Strawberry Elizabeth 2 is considered a classic
- Lyubasha is an early ripe mustacheless variety, the berries of which are estimated with almost the maximum rating (4.9). They are not very large (from 12 to 23 g), sweet, aromatic. The yield is below average, the winter hardiness is high. Disease resistance and drought resistance are average.
Lyubasha has an almost perfect taste
- Monterey is a well-known Californian variety. Berries weighing up to 40 g, dark burgundy, with dense pulp. The taste is sweet, the aroma is barely noticeable. Often grown in year-round greenhouses. Disease resistance is high, cold resistance is low.
Monterey strawberries are intended for large agricultural enterprises
- Rujana is a Czech small-fruited variety, the berries do not exceed 7 g in weight, pink, in taste and aroma ideally reproduce those for wild strawberries. The number of berries is large, but the overall yield is low, although fruiting is continuous. Frost, drought, and disease resistance are high. The disadvantage of the variety is the need for frequent renewal of the plantation.
Ruyan's strawberries: in the garden as in the forest
- San Andreas is a high-yielding variety from California, bears fruit with dense, good-tasting berries weighing about 30 g. Drought and frost resistance are low, the variety is valued for its extremely high transportability of the crop.
San Andreas strawberries - commercial variety
Perhaps the above list can be corrected: each gardener has his own tastes. Of course, there are no ideal varieties, but each has its own pros and cons.
Pros and cons of remontant strawberries versus regular strawberries
The best remontant varieties allow picking up to one and a half kilograms of berries from a bush per season with intensive agricultural technology. In addition, even the whiskers formed in the current season can give a small harvest. However, continuous fruiting leads to rapid aging of the bushes, and they must be replaced more often than in the case of conventional varieties. Most varieties are kept in one place for only two to three years, and for some, the period is reduced to a year. Therefore, not all gardeners grow remontant strawberries. Its advantages are as follows:
- the ability to harvest throughout the season;
- very early, for most varieties, ripening of the first berries;
- high, in most cases, total yield;
- variety in taste and color of berries.
The disadvantages are:
- fragility of the bushes;
- increased need for food and moisture;
- the impossibility, for many varieties, of reproduction by a mustache.
However, the varieties of remontant strawberries are so diverse that the advantages and disadvantages given do not apply to every variety. Currently, you can choose strawberries to your taste and your ability to care for plants.
Methods for growing remontant strawberries
Not every gardener has the opportunity to allocate a large area for growing strawberries; you have to resort to various tricks. However, this applies not only to remontant varieties. They try to grow both ordinary and remontant strawberries in the open field, but in cold regions sometimes greenhouses have to be used. So, greenhouse cultivation has the following advantages:
- the possibility of year-round cultivation;
- saving space in the open field;
- the possibility of commercial use of the process;
- ease of care;
- a guarantee of obtaining cleaner berries.
However, it also has disadvantages:
- high cost of greenhouses and greenhouse equipment;
- for many varieties - the need for artificial pollination of flowers;
- lack of natural light.
In greenhouses, more often than in open ground, they implement a vertical method of growing various crops, including strawberries. With this method, the bushes are planted in pots or boxes, which are placed on various shelves, shelves and other structures. However, saving space complicates maintenance: in particular, due to the small volume of soil in the ground, it is more often necessary to water and feed the plants. But in the fall, the boxes can be moved to a warm place to prolong fruiting.
You can put any jars with strawberries on the shelves.
An option for vertical cultivation is to plant strawberries in bags. Soil is poured into bags of sugar and other products with a volume of about 50 liters, holes are cut into which seedlings are planted. Growing in bags is a special case of growing under a film, when the bed is covered with plastic wrap, holes are made in it for bushes. At the same time, the necessary microclimate is created under the film, and the strawberries are not overgrown with weeds. At the same time, the berries do not get dirty with earth. But in hot weather, severe overheating is possible, which is a limitation of the method.
Strawberries take up little space in the bag
Vertically (and sometimes horizontally) plastic pipes are often used as planting vessels, in which holes for bushes are cut. The pipes must have a diameter of at least 100 mm, they are filled with nutrient soil and a thin perforated pipe for irrigation and supply of fertilizer solutions. The method saves space, allows you to get clean berries, but does not require very simple maintenance.
Pipes are commonly used in greenhouses
Strawberries are also grown hydroponically, that is, without using soil at all. The bushes are placed in containers with special solutions. The technique often used in growing early greens still gets controversial reviews in the case of strawberries. It is believed that you cannot get really tasty berries on hydroponics.
Planting remontant strawberries
Planting remontant strawberries is almost the same as planting conventional varieties. The main thing is to have high-quality planting material: not all varieties give a sufficient amount of full-fledged mustache.
Choosing a place for strawberries on the site
The best predecessors of strawberries in the garden are legumes, carrots, parsley, beets, onions and garlic. The soil should be light, loamy or sandy loam, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The garden bed does not always have to be in bright sun: most varieties tolerate light partial shade normally. In terms of relief, the site can be flat or have a slight slope to the southwest side. You cannot plant strawberries in lowlands, where melt water and cold air accumulate.
The garden bed is prepared long before planting. It is important to carefully dig up the ground in order to select all the remnants of weeds, especially the rhizomes of perennial weeds, stones, and debris. When digging, fertilize is applied: 1 m2 take up to two buckets of humus or compost and a pound of wood ash. You can add 30-50 g of superphosphate, and in the case of very acidic soil and lime or chalk (up to 500 g).
If time permits, it is advisable to sow green manures on the site - grasses that, after growing, are dug up together with the ground. These are, for example, oats, lupine, alfalfa, vetch.
Immediately before planting, the ground is loosened with a heavy rake and leveled.
There are various options for planting strawberries, from growing in one row to carpet planting. In any case, distances are left between the bushes, depending on the variety: most often 20-30 cm is enough, but for giant varieties they can reach 40-50 cm. Varieties that form a large number of whiskers are often planted in a nesting way: there are 4- 5 plants, and leave at least 60 cm between the nests.
Most often, strawberries are planted in rows, according to a scheme of about 25 x 70 cm. This scheme can be considered more or less universal. Mustacheless varieties can be planted more densely, but not more often than after 20 cm.
There are many options for placing bushes
They plant remontant strawberries in warm weather, at an air temperature of at least 15 aboutC. This can be done both in spring and late summer. When planting in spring, the soil should also warm up to at least 12 aboutC. This planting is preferable from the point of view that already in the current season it will be possible to get a small harvest. Summer planting in hot regions is dangerous, since seedlings that have not taken root can burn out in the sun. Therefore, in the spring in any regions, planting is carried out in late April - early May, and in the summer in the middle lane, work is completed at the very beginning of autumn, and in the south - a little later.
Storage of seedlings before planting
The safest way to plant the strawberries is right after digging. The most difficult thing is to preserve the seedlings all winter if you had to dig them up in the fall. Bushes tied in bunches are placed in boxes on a layer of moss and kept in a basement at 2 ... 6 ° C and an air humidity of about 90%.
A dozen bushes can be put in the refrigerator in a plastic bag.
More complex is the frigo technology, available only to large enterprises. On it, seedlings with almost no leaves are stored at 0 ... -2 ° C and prepared for planting in a special way. If we are talking about the fact that ordinary seedlings need to be preserved for only a few days, then it is advisable to dip the roots in a clay mash, and then place the bushes in wet sawdust or moss.
According to frigo technology, seedlings are stored frozen
Step-by-step instructions for planting remontant strawberries
The process of planting ready-made seedlings is simple.
- The bushes are pruned too long roots (more than 7–8 cm) and damaged leaves are removed, the roots are dipped in a clay mash.
If the seedlings are with a clod of earth, it is better not to destroy it.
- They level the bed with a rake and mark the holes for planting.
- Make holes with a scoop and water them well.
The size of the hole must match the size of the seedlings
- The bushes are placed in the holes, straightening the roots and making sure that the heart is a couple of millimeters above the soil level. Gently cover the roots with earth.
It is important not to bury the bushes
- Water well, and then mulch with a thin layer of any loose material.
It is convenient to use chopped straw as mulch
You can mulch the garden the next day, after carefully loosening the soil.
The basic operations for caring for remontant strawberries are the same as for ordinary strawberries, but there are some peculiarities.
It can be said simply about watering remontant strawberries: the soil at a depth of 5 cm should be constantly moist. You have to water often, but little by little, better in the evening. Consumption - up to 3 liters per bush. They try to water at the root, especially during the fruiting period. The best solution is to equip a drip irrigation system.
With drip irrigation, water flows directly to the roots
Repaired strawberries are fed with both organic matter and mineral fertilizers. It is important not to overdo it with nitrogen, so as not to get lush bushes with a minimum of berries. In early spring, they are fed with urea (50 g per bucket of water, for 10 bushes). After flowering, it is convenient to use potassium monophosphate (25 g per bucket). Then 3-4 times per season, infusions of mullein or cut grasses are used. You can also use universal fertilizers according to the instructions on the package.
Video: feeding strawberries
When a mustache appears, they are left only as much as necessary for reproduction, the rest are immediately cut off. They constantly make sure that no dried and damaged leaves remain. In the fall, fruiting peduncles and most of the old leaves are removed. For all pruning, a sharp pruner is used, leaving petioles no more than 2 cm long.
Video: caring for remontant strawberries
Preparing for winter
Most varieties of remontant strawberries have to be covered for the winter, even in the middle lane. Only plentiful snow, which fell early, can allow the bushes to overwinter without shelter. Strawberries are covered with the onset of light frosts, coniferous spruce branches, straw, shavings, non-woven materials are used. With the onset of snowfall, it is advisable to throw more snow on the garden bed. Covering materials are removed in the spring immediately after the arrival of positive temperatures.
Until the snow falls, spruce or pine branches will save strawberries from frost
Possible problems and solutions
Remontant strawberry varieties have the same diseases as common ones, for example:
- late blight;
- powdery mildew;
- leaf spot;
- gray rot.
At the same time, modern varieties are highly resistant to most diseases, so ordinary summer residents rarely face the need to use powerful drugs for their treatment. Preventive measures are as follows:
- treatment of the beds before planting strawberries with a 1-2% solution of copper sulfate;
- disinfection of seedlings and adult plants (before flowering) with a pink solution of potassium permanganate;
- periodic spraying of plants with Fitosporin (relatively safe biofungicide);
- elimination of plant thickening and overgrowing with weeds;
- timely pruning of bushes.
Video: strawberry diseases
Of the pests, the strawberry mite remains the most dangerous. To prevent its appearance at the very beginning of May, strawberries are treated with special preparations, for example, Neoron. During fruiting, you can use the relatively safe Fitoverm: after processing, after a few days you can eat berries.
The tick is not easy to see, but spoiled young leaves indicate its presence.
Breeding methods for remontant strawberries
The plantation of remontant varieties has to be renewed more often than the usual one: for more than three years the plants have not been kept in the garden. Therefore, there should be several beds, one of which is destroyed by autumn, and in a new place (for example, after harvesting garlic) the next one is started. The easiest way is to plant strawberries with a mustache, but not all varieties give them in the right quantities.
If, for example, Selva is mainly propagated by a mustache (she gives a lot of them), then San Andreas has very few mustaches, and Lyubasha is a completely mustache-free variety. But it is easiest to propagate plants with a mustache, and they try to do so, if possible. To obtain seedlings, strong annual bushes are chosen, or better, they do not allow them to bear fruit at all, making them mother plants. The growing mustache is laid out around the bush and helps them to take root. They try to use only the first from the uterine bush and, in extreme cases, the second sockets. Farther crop. It is advisable to get no more than 7-8 bushes of seedlings from a bush.
The strongest rosettes are the first from the bush
When 4–5 leaves grow on the rosettes, they are most likely already well-rooted. The mustache is cut off, the seedling is dug up together with a clod of earth and transferred to a new place. This can usually be done in August, but if the planting is scheduled for spring, trimming the mustache at the end of summer is still worth it.
Dividing the bush
By dividing the bush, any varieties can be propagated, but this is usually done in the case of beardless. The bushes are usually divided in April, but it is possible even after the end of fruiting, if there is still enough time for the rooting of parts of the bush in a new place. Carefully dig out a fruitful strong bush, free the roots from the ground and divide it into several parts with a knife or pruner. It is important that each of them has an intact heart, 3-4 leaves and developed roots. Old roots are removed, young ones are slightly pruned, divisions are planted according to the usual rules.
It is often easier to do division in a basin of water.
Amateur gardeners rarely propagate strawberries by seed: although it is a reliable, but very time-consuming method. True, it does not guarantee the preservation of the characteristics of the variety. Seeds remain viable for only one year. Seeds are sown in February. In fact, seedlings are grown in much the same way as seedlings of vegetable crops, only first, the seeds are placed in the soil for three days in the refrigerator, and then they wait for seedlings to appear for at least a month. Seedlings are very miniature, at first they grow very slowly, but by the end of spring they turn into normal seedlings.
Seedlings are grown almost as in the case of tomatoes.
Reconstruction strawberries have their own advantages and disadvantages compared to ordinary strawberries. It is a little more difficult to grow it, but you can harvest it all summer and early autumn. When deciding to tackle this business, you should first clearly define the variety: they are very diverse, and a mistake can forever scare a gardener away from growing such strawberries.
Planting and growing strawberries from seeds - home care technology
Who doesn't like to enjoy delicious, juicy and healthy berries in the summer season? Summer residents choose strawberries for growing because of their good taste characteristics, unpretentious growth, and also because the berry contains a huge amount of vitamins and minerals.
A good way to get healthy shrubs is to grow strawberries from seeds yourself at home. Knowledge of the peculiarities of sowing, planting and caring for bushes will help to grow strawberries correctly.
- When to sow seeds?
- Preparation: how to select and disinfect seeds
- Seed selection: a few rules
- How to prepare the ground?
- Sowing seeds for seedlings
- Growing seedlings in peat tablets
- How does the pick take place?
- Planting seedlings in open ground
- Preparing the soil for planting
- Planting seedlings
- Collection and storage of seeds
- Pests and diseases
Place the strawberry seeds between two cotton pads or two to three layers of clean cloth. Place them in a microwave container or other dish, moisten, close with a lid, having previously made several holes in it for ventilation. If you have multiple varieties, label them. Keep them for 2-3 days at a temperature of +15. + 18 ° C, then put the soaked strawberry seeds in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.
Some gardeners advise placing ready crops in the refrigerator. But stratification in a container is much more convenient: it takes up less space. After 2 weeks, place the container in a warm (+18. + 20 ° C) bright place. Check the seeds every 2-3 days so that you don't miss the moment of germination.
When the strawberry seeds hatch, it is time for sowing. Put peat tablets in a container, fill them with water. Wait until they turn from pills into "columns". Add water until the tablets stop absorbing it. Drain the excess.
Place the "pegs" in the indentations in the tablets. It is very convenient to do this with a toothpick. You do not need to cover the seeds with earth: strawberries grow better in the light. Seeds are sprinkled only when sowing in the summer in the garden, so that they do not die from overdrying.
It is important that the seeds that have hatched do not dry out. To do this, cover the container with a transparent lid or place it in a greenhouse. Place the strawberry crops in a bright place with a temperature not exceeding + 20 ° C.
Remove condensation from the lid daily, ventilate to prevent mold. If you still notice the first signs of mold, carefully remove it with a toothpick and drip a solution of the drug on this place. Maxim or another fungicide.
After the first true leaves appear, the shelter can be removed. Sprinkle strawberry roots (if they are bare) to the root collar with a little earth. If you notice that the peat "pillars" are settling, add water to the container until it is completely absorbed, and drain the excess.
Planting remontant strawberries
- Full photo
If you are interested in planting remontant strawberries, then most likely you want to plant these particular varieties of this berry.
In recent years, it is the remontant varieties that have enjoyed the greatest popularity. Strawberries can be large-fruited or small-fruited. Some varieties develop a mustache, while others do not. Those varieties that do not have a mustache reproduce by dividing the bushes or by seeds.
The inflorescences of remontant strawberries are laid under the condition of a long day and a rather high temperature. Remnant strawberries usually bear fruit at the same time as common strawberries, and the harvest appears in late August-late September. Fruits can also appear on the rosettes of bushes. Thanks to this, this strawberry can also grow on a trellis. The remontant strawberry is not frost-resistant. Therefore, it is imperative to cover it for the winter.
Planting remontant strawberries and caring for them is almost the same as caring for ordinary strawberries. Experienced gardeners need to plant differently than regular strawberries. It must be planted in squares. It is necessary to choose a square measuring 70 by 70 cm and plant a bush in each corner, with the young mustache directed inside the square. After fruiting is over, the entire square should be removed. This will ensure good fruiting for years to come.
If you plant remontant strawberries in your garden, you will get a high-quality harvest. These strawberry varieties are very tasty and will surely give you pleasure. Therefore, be sure to try planting this strawberry in your garden.
Features of growing and caring for remontant strawberries
Moisture is very important for the plant during the development of the bushes. If the summer is dry, the strawberries are watered regularly, allowing the topsoil to dry out. The plant is watered abundantly during the flowering period, but waterlogging of the soil at the time of ripening of the berries leads to a loss of sweetness and the formation of rot.
Since the fruiting period of remontant strawberries is long, the bushes need food. It is recommended to fertilize the culture in spring with organic matter - a solution of slurry (diluted 1:10) with the addition of wood ash (250 g per bucket of solution). Water the bushes at the root: 10 liters are poured onto a 5-meter row. The second dressing is applied at the time of the appearance of buds and flowers. The bushes are sprayed with preparations of boron, manganese, zinc (2 g per bucket of water). Trace elements improve the quality of berries and increase yields.
Weed removal and mulching
It allows you to keep moisture in the ground, makes the soil looser and more breathable, reduces the amount of weeding, and protects the fruits from rot.
Protection against diseases and pests
Preventive measures consist in spraying the bushes with Bordeaux liquid or garlic infusion. In case of severe fungal infection, fungicides are used. Of the pests, slugs most often visit the area with strawberries. Prevention - sprinkle the foliage with tobacco dust or ash.
There can be significant success with basic care. But the gardener should be mindful of special events as well.
Preparing remontant strawberries for wintering
Caring for remontant strawberries in the autumn, and the subsequent preparation of this crop for winter is a very important process.
The main components of compulsory care for remontant strawberries in the autumn period:
- A gradual reduction in watering and sanitary procedures for treating bushes (pruning diseased or damaged leaves, as well as trimming a mustache). The yield and quality of remontant strawberries in the next year depend on these actions.
- In winter, part of the leaves of remontant strawberries dies off and falls off. Often, all kinds of pests and pathogens are found in fallen leaves. That is why, with the beginning of spring, it is necessary to remove all dead foliage from the beds. It should be noted that this should be done only after the end of the frost, when the snow is growing.
Caring for Ruyana
Since the variety is remontant, there are no particular difficulties in caring for it. But so that the plants do not get sick and give a good harvest, it is worth observing some rules of agricultural technology.
|Watering ||It is carried out immediately after disembarkation and then regularly. In the summer, if there is a dry season, the soil dries up quickly. This negatively affects the yield: the formation of flowers is reduced and the fruiting decreases. Watering strawberries in such conditions is necessary often - 3-4 times a week.|
|Mulching ||In caring for strawberries, the mulching process is very important. It helps to retain moisture, protect against soil-borne diseases and weeds.|
You can mulch Ruyanu with small straw, leaves, fine bark, peat. From time to time, the mulch needs to be updated.
|Top dressing ||You can start them in early May, a week after disembarkation. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are used, which are applied under the base of each bush.|
In the middle of summer, the plants are fed with minerals.
Compost is brought in in autumn.
|Destruction of diseases and pests ||Treatments for powdery mildew and rot, late blight and nematodes, against leaf spot and black-haired stalk are carried out at the stage when the plant is not yet beginning to bear fruit.|
To combat these problems and prevent their appearance, there are many drugs that can be used only according to instructions.
Of the pests, slugs are the most dangerous for berries. They, too, can be destroyed with chemicals or common methods to minimize the danger of eating pickled berries.
|Preparing for winter ||Ruyan's strawberries are cold-resistant and do not live in poverty in global protection from frost. But in the first year of seed growing, experts recommend preparing the plants for winter. The bushes can be covered with sawdust or other mulch, and then covered completely with spruce legs.|
|Outdoor processing ||No less important than shelter for the winter is the spring opening of the strawberry and its preparation for the new productive season.|
It is necessary to remove spruce branches, scrape off sawdust stems, send out all damaged leaves and pressed to the soil (pests could have overwintered under them).
Then the bushes are watered, the first top dressing is applied, and from the beginning of summer they are waiting for fruiting, almost continuous, until October.
Gardeners do not recommend collecting and harvesting seeds. Better to buy them in total in the store. There is a reason for that. The seeds collected from this particular variety do not give good germination, usually the sprouts die.
Advice. To get freshly baked bushes without buying seeds, there is a little dacha trick. Make holes in a small plastic cup, dig it into the ground between strawberry bushes and place there, a centimeter from the surface, a ripe Ruyana berry in the fall. In the spring, it can sprout.
A ripe berry can bring a harvest in the coming season
Thus, Ruyan's remontant strawberry does not belong to civilizations that are difficult to care for. It multiplies easily by seeds. And can bring a good harvest. It is worth putting in quite a bit of effort: preparing for sowing and caring for the seedlings. Ruyana will thank you with fragrant berries for your care.
Tell us more about the autumn sowing of strawberry seeds
A question from our subscriber Svetlana:
I read on the site that it is recommended to sow strawberries at the end of October. I have had several unsuccessful attempts to sow strawberries with seeds. True, I sowed it in boxes in the spring, observing all the recommendations that are written on a bag of seeds. I learned about the autumn sowing for the first time. Could you tell us about this in detail?
In the fall, there is no need to sow strawberries in the garden. Here is a quick technique for growing strawberries from seed (below). And in the summer I do it even easier. I pick off red ripe strawberries and smear them on the ground under a bush, cover them with earth a little. If it was possible to "smear" the first ripe berries at the beginning of summer, then the grown plants can be planted, and by the fall a full-fledged seedling-rosette will grow.
Breeding strawberries from seeds
Take loose garden soil in a box 10 - 12 cm deep. Level the soil surface well.
Drizzle, soaking to full depth. Sow seeds directly on the surface of the soil in rows every 3-4 cm.
Sprinkle the seeds with sand 0.5-2 mm thick, do not water, it will wash the seeds.
Wrap the box with foil and put it preferably to the battery. Until the seeds germinate, watering is not necessary, it is wet under the film.Temperature 24-30 degrees. Seedlings will appear on the 15-30th day.
After the appearance of the first shoots, remove the film, begin to water carefully.
When 1 - 2 leaves appear, cut open: row spacing 5 cm, and in a row after 5 cm.
The timing of sowing in boxes in the middle lane is the end of February, to the south - earlier, you will be late - it is possible in April.
If suddenly the seedlings begin to wilt, urgently pour over a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.
In the first box, the sown seeds, in the second - the sown plants.