7 conditions raspberries cannot tolerate

 7 conditions raspberries cannot tolerate

Raspberries are considered an unpretentious plant that can bear fruit even under inappropriate conditions. But if you want to harvest a rich berry crop every year, prepare the soil correctly and eliminate what the shrub cannot tolerate.

Potatoes and strawberries

It is important to observe the crop rotation. If the alternation in the area is incorrect, the plants cannot fully develop and bear fruit. This is due to the fact that all crops have different effects on the soil. The simplest example is potatoes and strawberries. Raspberries are never planted immediately after them, as all three crops require a similar set of nutrients. In addition, raspberries, strawberries and potatoes share the same pests and diseases, which makes growing half shrubs even more difficult. The best precursors for raspberries are onions, garlic, legumes, parsley and dill. The soil after calendula, marigolds and lupins is also suitable.

Other cultures nearby

For normal development and growth, raspberries require a large amount of nutrients, so it is better to plant "gluttonous" shrub as far from other plants as possible. Make sure that the distance from the bush to neighboring plantings is at least two meters. Also, avoid the proximity of raspberries to strawberries. The root system of these plants is located at the same depth, which is why they will always compete for water, air and food.

Sour soil

Raspberries feel most comfortable in the ground, the acidity of which is in the range of 5.7-6.5 pH. If these figures are greatly underestimated, the yield of the bushes will drop, and the berries will become small and sour. To avoid this, test the soil with indicator strips before planting the shrub. If the acidity is too high, add wood ash to the soil. For 1 m² for deoxidation it will need 0.7-1.5 kg.

Constant winds

Raspberry is a thermophilic plant. Choosing a bed on which the bushes will constantly be in a draft, you will deprive yourself of a good harvest of berries. The plant will be most comfortable in the area along the fence. If the fence is solid, then it will perfectly protect the raspberries from any wind.

Location in the shade

For normal growth, the culture needs a lot of sunlight, so you need to choose well-lit places for planting.Be sure to stay away from trees and taller shrubs that can cast shadows. If you choose to plant a plant alongside a fence, choose a location that has full sun for most of the day.

Rare thinning

If you do not thin out the raspberry bushes, they will begin to give a meager harvest, since all the plant's strength will be spent on building up the green mass, and not on the formation of fruits. To avoid this, cut off all frozen, damaged and thin branches from the bush every spring. Also keep in mind that the lion's share of the crop falls on the middle part of the bush. In the fall, trim the tops so that the height of the plants does not exceed 1.2 m. This will also help save the energy of the shrub and redirect them to the formation of berries.

Drought

Raspberries do not tolerate heat well. In a hot summer, she needs a lot of water. In a drought, under each bush, you need to pour at least 10-15 liters of water once a week. If the summer turns out to be rainy, then the plants can not be watered at all. Despite this unpretentiousness, the shrub requires more moisture before flowering, as well as during the growth and ripening of berries. These simple tips will help you grow strong and healthy raspberry bushes, which will produce a rich harvest of berries every year. Also try not to forget about the "gluttony" of the shrub, because of which the soil needs regular fertilization.

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Raspberries: what to plant between its rows

Raspberries are delicious and healthy in every way. In the old days, it grew exclusively in forests, but when people learned about its healing properties, they began to grow it in their gardens. This culture, despite the fact that it is not finicky, requires care, like all plants. But labor costs can be reduced by choosing suitable neighbors for her. In this case, you do not have to devote too much time to your raspberry plant, and at the same time you will be able to harvest a good harvest.


Planting blackberries and raspberries

Planting blackberries and raspberries. Raspberries and blackberries are very often grown in vegetable gardens. The reason for the popularity of shrubs is the relative ease of care and the juicy berries that grow on them.

blackberry

How to plant blackberries

With proper care, blackberry bushes can bear fruit well in one place without transplanting for up to ten years. In this regard, choosing the right place for planting blackberries and raspberries is very important. Blackberries grow well in light areas with fertile soil. However, in partial shade, the shrub also develops well.

The plant has a powerful root system with many layers. The shrub is planted in autumn or spring before the leaves appear. Before disembarking, you must carefully study the planting material. For example, it is better not to use weak plants with damaged roots or thin shoots. It is better to plant plants with powerful fibrous roots.

It is advisable to dig planting holes or grooves right before disembarking. Before immersing the roots in the ground, it is recommended to briefly dip the roots into the mullein solution. As a result, the planting pits are filled with humus or compost. However, after that, earthen rollers should be poured around the hole and each bush should be watered. When the moisture is absorbed, the soil is mulched and the stems of the plant are pruned.

Planting blackberries and raspberries

How to plant raspberries

If sunny, sheltered from the winds with fertile, not too moist soil are suitable for raspberries. There are no special recommendations on the timing of planting shrubs. Because they are planted, like all berry bushes, in spring or autumn.

However, the recess for landing should not be too deep - into the bayonet of the shovel. Dig it up right before disembarking. If it is necessary to add organic, phosphorus and potash fertilizers to each groove.

Planting raspberries

Planting frequency depends on the type of cultivation. If the plants are spreading, they should be planted with a distance of up to two meters between the bushes. Otherwise, they will interfere with each other's development. For example, the tape type of cultivation allows for a denser planting of seedlings - about thirty centimeters from each other. Raspberries are also planted in rows, leaving a gap of two meters between them. Repaired raspberries are planted in rows, if keeping the distance between plants - half a meter, between rows - one meter.

Immediately after planting, the land around the seedling should be watered and mulched with peat.

As a result, some time after planting, the plants are pruned: all weak shoots growing from the base are removed. If such a measure helps the shrub grow and bear fruit better.

Planting blackberries and raspberries


Planting and the nuances of growing

Raspberry Meteor belongs to varieties with a good degree of self-fertility, but summer residents use a reliable way to increase the number of ovaries. They simply plant other raspberries of the same maturity side by side to ensure pollination. Along with the amount of harvest, the quality indicators of berries also increase. Meteor is a raspberry variety that tolerates winter well. Therefore, seedlings are planted equally well in spring and autumn. But gardeners have observed that spring planting is more successful. Plants planted in spring outpace those planted in autumn.

Raspberry Meteor is planted in pre-prepared holes. Some people prefer to plant in trenches, the depth and width of which is 35 cm. The size of the planting holes is 30x30 cm. Gardeners grow the Meteor variety in a bush method or in rows, depending on the area of ​​the site and personal preferences. The dimensions of the row spacing withstand at least 1.5 - 2.2 meters, and between plants when bush planting - 0.75 cm, when planting in rows - 0.5 cm.

As soon as the planting of the raspberries is complete, the plants are immediately watered. With an ordinary planting method, 10 liters of water are consumed per 1 running meter. For a single plant, 6 liters is sufficient.

After watering, the land is mulched. For raspberries, it is good to use peat crumbs, compost, mowed grass or rotted manure. The thickness of the mulching layer is at least 5 cm. The final action will be to cut the seedling to a height of 25-30 cm.

Now young raspberry bushes require attention. Watering is necessary especially in the absence of natural precipitation. For 1 sq. m raspberry need 3 buckets of water. If the watering rates are not maintained, then the berry becomes smaller, the yield and sweetness of the fruit decreases. In subsequent years, for Meteor raspberries, watering is mandatory at the beginning of flowering bushes, during the period of active growth of shoots.

For good development and fruiting of Meteor raspberries, you need food.

Organic matter is introduced into the soil once every three years. Proportions - 5 kg of substance per 1 sq. m area. But mineral fertilizers for raspberries Meteor are used as follows:

  • ammonium nitrate is applied in early spring in the amount of 20 g
  • foliar spraying with karbofos (10%) at the time of flowering raspberries and budding with a solution of 10 liters of water 75 g of substance
  • phosphorus-potassium compounds are necessary at the time of pre-winter preparation.

Raspberries of the Meteor variety respond well to nutrition with organic infusions of chicken manure or slurry. After infusion, the formulations are diluted with water. In the first version 1:10, in the second 1: 5. Any feeding is combined with watering for better dissolution and assimilation of elements.

Preparation for winter consists of bending the shoots to the ground and sheltering.

Caring for raspberry bushes in subsequent years consists in:

  • timely watering
  • feeding
  • preventive treatments for diseases and pests
  • preparing for winter.

It is imperative to loosen the aisles, as well as get rid of weeds.

The Meteor variety also has small disadvantages that should be noted:

  1. If the height of the shoots is over 2 meters, you will need trellis for tying.
  2. The variety does not like return frosts, in which the root system of the plant can be seriously damaged.

The rest of the raspberry completely suits summer residents in their parameters.


Conditions that are not suitable for raspberries - garden and vegetable garden

Raspberries are consumed both fresh and after processing. Jam, jam, juices, compotes, drinks are prepared from them.

The presence of organic acids, vitamins, sugars, essential oils, special chemical compounds in raspberries makes it an excellent food product and a medicinal "preparation".

The use of berries, especially dry (brewed), prevents atherosclerosis, helps with diseases of the heart, stomach, flu, bronchitis, laryngitis. Decoctions from the leaves and young shoots of raspberries are good for colds. Decoctions of shoots are used for liver diseases. Infusions of raspberry roots are used to treat bronchial asthma, eczema, urticaria, and allergies.

An excellent cosmetic mask mix can be made with raspberries and sour cream.

Raspberry varieties are distinguished by the nature of the growth of the bush, leaves, fruits. The latter - in size, shape, color, taste, brightness of juice, yield. In terms of ripening, raspberries are early, medium early, medium, medium late, late. More often it has a one-time maturation period, but there is also a remontant one. Raspberries are a cross-pollinated crop. Naturally, the yield is higher and more stable when grown on a plot of several varieties.

Raspberries love light, nutrient-rich and humus-rich loams and sandstones, rather moist, with a slightly acidic reaction.

During the growing season, it is loosened several times, and above all after watering and rain. Watering in a dry season is necessary abundant.

Raspberries are grown bushes, often ribbon planting. Saplings obtained from root cuttings (less often from apical cuttings) are planted in spring or autumn in deeply dug and well-fertilized soil. Annual seedlings are shortened to three to five buds and are planted when planting in rows at a distance of 00 cm from each other.

To prevent raspberries from falling, it is recommended to install stakes with two wires or strips at a height of 80 and 120 cm. Shoots need to be tied to them. In August - September, fruit bearing, underdeveloped young, damaged and diseased shoots are cut out from the very ground. Abandoned stumps are a haven for pests.

Raspberries are fed in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers, in the fall - with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, and once or twice during the berry filling period - with infusion of mullein or bird droppings.

Raspberries suffer from frost. Therefore, in late autumn, the still flexible shoots of raspberries are tilted to each other or in one direction to a height of 20-30 cm and tied to the base of a neighboring bush. This creates conditions for snow retention, under a layer of snow frosts and cold winter winds are not terrible for raspberries. It is even better to sprinkle the raspberry shoots with earth, but this process is very complicated and gardeners rarely resort to it.

In the spring, the garter is removed, the soil is raked off, the shoots are leveled and the tops are cut off by 1/3 - to the first well-developed bud. At the same time, it is necessary to cut out shoots with signs of damage by pests and diseases, as well as those damaged by frost.

The soil between the raspberry bushes should be loosened in the spring, weeded, moistened and, if necessary, mulched in order to retain moisture.

It is necessary to closely monitor the growth of young shoots in the summer. The stem fly inflicts great damage to raspberries. She lays eggs in the axils of the apical leaves. The larvae that appear bite into the stem, make their way to the soil and, during the flowering period, go into the ground. A sign of stem damage is the wilting of the top of the shoot, and then its blackening. The damaged areas of the shoots are cut out and burned. Weak shoots are also cut out.

Noteworthy is the experience of some gardeners who cut the tops off healthy raspberry shoots when they reach 1 m in height. This causes the awakening of the buds in the axils of the upper leaves, where up to five lateral shoots up to half a meter long grow. It is impossible to be late with this pruning - the lateral shoots should ripen until the end of the growing season. In the spring of next year, a second pruning of the tops of both the main and lateral shoots is done by 10-15 cm, which ultimately leads to the formation of a powerful bush and, accordingly, an increase in the yield of berries.

Growing remontant raspberries has some peculiarities. The representative of the latter is the Russian variety Indian Summer, which bears fruit until autumn frosts. The berries taste good both fresh and processed.

Remontant varieties bear fruit mainly on annual shoots. The bush is formed from strong, upright shoots, which do not need to be tied to trellises. Shoots are removed after freezing of the soil. By itself, the problem of sheltering plantings from frost, many diseases and pests disappears, care is facilitated, and the gardener receives environmentally friendly berries. High-yielding variety.

Another representative of this type is Hercules. The first harvest of this variety reaches 10 g, good consumer qualities, the variety has increased resistance to fungal diseases.


Raspberry mite

The female pest hibernates under the upper shell of the kidney. In the spring, when the leaves begin to bloom, the mites come out of the shelter and feed on the sap of the plant, most often they populate the back of the young leaves.At the same time, the leaves are bent, light spots appear between the veins, the bushes grow poorly.

Control measures

To prevent damage and control raspberry mites after flowering and harvesting, it is recommended to spray the bushes with Karbofos, Aktellik, Iskra or other insecticidal and acaricidal preparations.


Patricia is an early large-fruited variety of raspberries

Raspberries Patricia - the leader among large-fruited varieties. It is so fruitful that it is sometimes confused with remontant. The fruits of the variety are sweet, conical in shape. The weight of one berry is 6-10 g. It is easy to collect 4 kg of raspberries from one bush, in especially fruitful years - up to 8 kg. Fruiting lasts from June to September. The berries do not break when removed from the stalk, and are great for processing, but they are less transported. The bushes are medium-sized, about 1.5 m in height. Shoots should be trimmed and tied regularly. The variety has immunity to common diseases, but is susceptible to late blight disease. Moderately resistant to drought and frost down to –30 ° C.

Did you like something? Then it's time to plant new varieties of raspberries! And if you have not found a suitable variety for your site in the list, read other articles on the topic:


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