Often, even in November, leaves do not fall from the trees. This is bad, because the very first snow will break the branches, which means that you will constantly have to shake off the snow from the trees, especially since the first snow usually falls wet, and therefore heavy.
Broken branches should be cut off immediately, and the cut should be covered with brilliant green. In the spring, additionally clean up the places of breakdowns and cover them with ordinary oil paint, a new bark will grow on top of it.
Wood pest control in November
To prevent such incidents from happening in the future, in October it is necessary to force the leaves to transfer the entire accumulated stock to the tree. To cause yellowing of the leaves, and then their dropping, it is necessary to spray the trees on the leaves with urea in a ratio of 300-400 g per 10 liters of water.
If you have not yet whitewashed the trunks of the apple trees, then do it immediately before the temperature drops to +6 degrees.
The beginning of November is a good time to spray the garden with a concentrated solution of mineral fertilizer (700 g of urea per 10 liters of water) in order to destroy pests wintering on the trunk and in the near-trunk circle.
If you have lichens on the trunks, now you can also get rid of them by "painting" these backbones with a 7-10% solution of ferrous sulfate (2.5 tablespoons per liter of water). By the spring they will not remain on the plants.
Mice look into the rooms, they usually run along the walls, so spread poison bait in several places near the baseboards. The best remedies are Storm, Clerat, Geldan. They are not a poison in the literal sense of the word, but they cause a fatal lung disease, and not immediately after the mice and rats eat the bait, but after a week, so that smart rats cannot associate this food with the disease and do not warn their relatives about danger. They like the food, and they inform other animals about it, which also come to feast on, so that with one bait you practically destroy the whole family.
Rodents do not die indoors, as with lung disease they lack air and get out into the street. As a rule, cats and dogs do not eat these mice, so there is no danger to other animals. But they can eat top dressing, so be careful.
If you are afraid to use such food, then spray the baseboards with ammonia-anise drops or scatter blackroot seeds along the walls. Mice do not like the smell of anise, and the seeds, clinging to the skin, cause nervous stress in rodents - the mice will leave your home.
Where do garden pests winter and how you can deal with them without "chemistry"
Adding an article to a new collection
Pest control of the garden requires us to be vigilant, so it is very important to know where they hibernate so as not to miss the moment and catch insects by surprise. Let's talk about the most popular places where pests hide for the winter.
The arrival of autumn is not a reason to stop fighting garden pests. The end of the season is the time when the "enemy" who has settled down for the winter is most vulnerable. It remains to determine the "place of deployment" and deliver an accurate strike. This is where we will try to help you.
Take a look at the trees and shrubs in your garden. Note that some insects and their larvae are so small that you will need to use a magnifying glass to spot them.
Who wrote Protection against diseases and pests of the garden and vegetable garden. Effective weed control? Find out the last name, what is the name of the author of the book and a list of all his works by series.
This book is published on our website as a partner program Liters (liters.ru) and contains only an introductory excerpt. If you are against its placement, please send your complaint to [email protected] or fill out the feedback form.
Disease. Bacterial burn
Sign of defeat. Flowers, leaves and young shoots turn black as if they were burnt. Oozing ulcers may appear at the time of flowering. The disease affects apple, pear and other rosaceae.
Necessary control measures. Destruction of affected branches cut with a piece of healthy wood (at least 30 cm for small branches, 60 cm for large ones). Disinfect (with alcohol) the blades of tools used for grafting and trimming.
Disease. Bacterial cancer
Sign of defeat. Small round brown spots appear on the sheets, which turn into holes. The next season, the buds are underdeveloped, and if the leaves do unfold, they are underdeveloped, yellowish and lethargic. Then the branches die off, and oozing ulcers form on the bark. Young cherries often die.
Necessary control measures. Removal and burning of dead and diseased branches that are pruned above the diseased area. Spraying the tree with a copper-based fungicide in August and then September.
Disease. Brown leaf spot
Sign of defeat. Leaf spots caused by fungal infections are rarely a serious threat, but weaken the plant and reduce the yield.
Necessary control measures. Destruction of infected leaves in the fall. Mulching the trunk circle to prevent the spread of spores. Spraying with copper-based fungicides.
Disease. Viral diseases
Sign of defeat. Spotted, unevenly colored, yellowed or deformed leaves appear on the plant. It is weakening, harvests are declining.
Necessary control measures. Destruction of infected plants. Control of virus-carrying aphids, other pests and weeds. Refusal to reproduce diseased plants. Disinfect (with alcohol) the pruning tool blades. There are no antiviral drugs.
Disease. Gum therapy
Sign of defeat. It stands out from cracks in the bark of cherries and gum flows out (thick yellowish sticky liquid, transparent smudges are formed). It occurs due to freezing and sunburn, excess moisture and nitrogen in the soil, mechanical damage, damage by pests and diseases.
Necessary control measures. Whitening of the trunk and large skeletal branches. Strict dosage of nitrogen fertilizers. Moderate watering. Correct pruning. Liming of acidic soils.
Sign of defeat. The upper side is covered with reddish-brown spots, which correspond to pinkish spore deposits on the lower side. Growing up, the spots merge. With a strong defeat, brown dry leaves fall from the tree. The disease affects cherries, less often plums in rainy summers.
Necessary control measures. Collect and burn fallen leaves. Spraying with fungicides with copper, immediately before the tree has bloomed, then after 2 weeks, and again after picking the fruit.
Disease. Moniliosis (fruit rot)
Sign of defeat. Fruits develop brown spots with white concentric circles. This fungal infection can spread to wood.
Necessary control measures. Planting varieties resistant to moniliosis. Destruction of affected fruits and branches. Application for spraying Bordeaux liquid.
Disease. Milky shine
Sign of defeat. The leaves take on a silvery hue, and then turn brown and die off. Purple-brown fungus growths appear on the branches. In the affected branches, brown spots are visible on the cut, penetrating to the very center. Most often, the disease affects cherries and plums after freezing.
Necessary control measures. Protection against freezing (feeding with potash and phosphorus fertilizers, refusal to water after mid-summer, whitening of trunks). Pruning in summer when there are few fungal spores in the air. Removing and burning diseased branches along with a 15 cm piece of healthy wood. Application for spraying a 3-5% solution of ferrous sulfate.
Disease. Powdery mildew
Sign of defeat. A whitish powdery coating appears on the leaves, shoots and flowers. They quickly turn yellow, thinner and deformed. The plaque turns brown over time and is covered with small black dots.
Necessary control measures. Avoiding too tight planting (air should circulate freely between the plants). Correct watering and mulching of the soil, weed control. Limiting the dose of nitrogen fertilizers that reduce disease resistance, or replacing them with universal ones. Collection and destruction of the affected parts of the plant. Fungicide treatment (based on miclobutanyl).
Sign of defeat. In apple trees, leaves and fruits are affected, in pears, shoots and branches are also affected. The leaves become covered with green-brown spots, dry up and fall off. Fruits develop gray-black crusty cracking spots. The fruits are deformed and fall off. Swelling and cracks appear on the bark. The tree weakened by the disease often freezes.
Necessary control measures. Breeding of scab resistant varieties. Collection and burning of fallen leaves. Removal and burning of diseased branches. In case of severe damage, spraying with a solution of urea of the tree and the soil under it after collecting the fruits, application for spraying with 1% Bordeaux liquid during the period of budding, after flowering and on young ovaries, treatment with fungicides (based on mancozeb).
Sign of defeat. A rust-like coating forms on leaves and shoots. The leaves are drying out. At plums, the underside of the leaf turns brown and the top yellow. A diseased tree sheds its leaves early. Extensive and repeated lesions weaken the plums. The Victoria variety is especially susceptible to rust.
Necessary control measures. Cultivation of rust resistant varieties. Refusal of close fit. Destruction of affected leaves and shoots. Cleaning and burning of leaf litter, on which spores of the fungus winter, in the fall. In case of severe lesions, spraying with fungicides of systemic action from the beginning of spring.
Disease. Gray rot
Sign of defeat. Leaves, flowers and fruits are covered with small brown spots, and then a gray, fleecy bloom, similar to mold. The fruit darkens and softens. Disordered air circulation, especially when the weather is cold and damp, contributes to the defeat.
Necessary control measures. Refusal of a tight fit. Destruction of the affected parts of the plant. Mulching the soil to prevent the spread of spores. Copper fungicide treatment.
Take care of your garden. Take preventive measures in time to prevent various diseases.
Success is in genetics
And this tip will come in handy for the next season. “The duration of fruiting of a crop also depends on the correct choice of seeds,” says Head of the laboratory of selection and seed production of nightshade crops of the Federal State Budgetary Scientific Institution "FNTSO" Elena Jos... - So, for a summer residence, Gruntovy Gribovsky, Dubok and Grotto are suitable - long-fruiting tomatoes that have relative resistance to late blight. They grow well at a temperature of + 15˚С. Large-fruited varieties are Magnat, Monarch, Blagodatny and Sorcerer.
From peppers, choose hybrids: Doctor, Natalie, Knyazhich, Yellow Bouquet, Slastena and Kazachok varieties. They are specially created for growing in the Non-Black Earth Zone - they have a reduced heat demand, long-term fruiting. In terms of yield, they are not inferior to the Dutch varieties.
It is better to pick eggplants with a powerful bush and remontant fruiting - Boyarin, Agate, new hybrid Vlas. All have a dark purple fruit color and absolutely no bitterness.
Getting rid of the horseradish
Gardeners are well aware that if a horseradish bush grows, it is very difficult to get rid of it. He quickly captures new areas, not allowing other plants to fully develop. Harsh chemicals can be used, but many are reluctant to introduce poisons and opt for table salt instead.
It is enough just to cut the horseradish leaves at the root and cover everything with plenty of salt on top. Just one such procedure will stop the growth of horseradish, and other plants can be planted in the garden.
Garden, vegetable garden and flower garden in November - last works before winter (+ a couple of secrets)
Fortunately, there are not so many works in November in the garden, vegetable garden and flower garden, and there are no labor-intensive and large-scale works at all. Let's take a look at them in order.
Almost all gardening work in November is about pest control and preparation for winter, as well as the coming spring (which can also be harsh on trees).
An exhaustive list of gardening jobs in November looks like this:
- Preventive treatment against diseases and pests with a solution of copper sulfate
- Sanitary pruning of trees and shrubs
- Shelter of plants in the pit
- Removing props from under the branches of fruit trees
- Cleaning the boles of adult trees from old bark, lichens
- Protection of conifers by tying the crown with woven fabric
- Whitewashing of boles and bases of skeletal branches
- Rodent protection and tree trunking
- Cleaning the garden from debris, leaves and plant waste
- Harvesting cuttings for winter grafting
- Pruning vines in early November - actinidia, lemongrass, grapes
- Pruning root shoots in lilac, honeysuckle, cherry, plum, cherry plum, hawthorn, sea buckthorn
- Procurement of seeds of ornamental trees and shrubs for winter and spring sowing
- Installation of bird feeders.
- Everyone knows how a harness protects trees from rodents? There is another way - after harvesting, plant residues can be stuck around the seedling, creating a palisade. For this purpose, dried stems of paniculata phlox, solidago, Sakhalin buckwheat, cut dry branches of raspberries are suitable. Remember to tie them around the trunk with a string.
The protection of trees from burns and frost breaks deserves special attention. - clay-based whitewash or special acrylic paint for garden trees. Height - up to 1.7 meters. And if the protection "peels off" during the winter, do not be too lazy to repeat it in late February or early March.
Thuja and junipers also need special care. To prevent the branches from bent forever under the weight of the snow, they need to be tied with twine. The crown should also be protected from sunburn by wrapping the branches in burlap (large trees are possible only on the south side).
You don't need to pick anything in the garden - it's time for winter sowing and harvesting. By the way, it is not too late to plant even after the first snow falls.
An exhaustive list of garden work in November looks like this:
- Purchase of seeds for winter crops of carrots, beets, greens
- Sowing and planting garlic, shallots, onion sets, carrots, greens, beets
- Mulching beds with podzimny crops (with the onset of frost)
- Harvesting peat, garden soil, compost, humus
- Arrangement of vegetables and herbs for distillation (onions, parsley, celery, beets)
- Greenhouse cleaning
- Digging the soil, cleaning plant residues
- Rodent Control: Placing Poisoned Baits in Gardens and Vaults
- Pickling cabbage, soaking apples.
Whatever you plant in November, remember - everything will have to be mulched, for example, sawdust, and better even peat. Watering podzimny plantings is not necessary. If the winter is with little snow, and you have the opportunity to come to the garden, throw snow on the beds. By the way, even the first snow that fell during the winter is not a hindrance to planting, you can simply sweep it aside and calmly plant what you want.
November is the time to harvest different types of soil for the creation of potting mixes in the spring. Stores do not always have what you need, so it's better to work now.The easiest way is to pour the necessary soil into dense plastic bags and sign them: river sand, horse peat, turf soil, humus, sawdust. You can store it anywhere, even in a barn in the country, even at home on a balcony - freezing will only benefit.
The November chores of the gardener include sheltering for the winter everything that is not yet covered, and in the intervals - collecting medicinal herbs and sowing plants for distillation.
An exhaustive list of works in a flower garden in November looks like this:
Clematis: The Ultimate Winter Shelter
Roses: nonwoven shelter, air dry shelter installation
Large-leaved hydrangeas, tree peonies: the ultimate shelter for the winter
Bookmark for winter storage of root tubers dahlia, cannes
Mulching oriental lilies and installing shelters from moisture
Pruning perennials, putting things in order in flower beds
Winter sowing of annual and perennial flowers
Planting tulips and hyacinths (if the soil is not frozen)
Planting plants for distillation (tulips, crocuses, lilies of the valley, hyacinths)
Collection of medicinal plants: marshmallow (roots), comfrey (roots), field rest (roots), gray alder (fruit).
Most of all the fuss, perhaps, with plants in containers. - the ground in them usually freezes completely, so the plants will have a hard time. To prevent this from happening, dig large holes and place the containers in them so that the plants are dug up to their necks. Mulch the soil surface, retreating from the root collar of the dug-in plants, cover with spruce branches.
A clever way to store dormant plants right in the garden
Many begin to receive seedlings of roses with an open root system and seedlings of perennials in February, and in order to be able to keep them right in the garden, you will have to prepare before the soil freezes.
Find a good, accessible place. Dig a hole 70-90 cm deep and insert a plywood box with a lid there, nail the handle onto the lid. Cover the lid with oilcloth and sprinkle with earth removed from the pit.
When the time comes, clear the space, remove the oilcloth, lift the lid and place the bag of seedlings in the box, and then close everything again. The snow will not allow the plants to freeze, and the oilcloth will maintain optimal moisture.