THE AGRONOMIST ANSWERS ON HOW TO GROW AND CARE FOR PLANTS
Photos with yellow leaves
QUESTION OF OLGA
Hello, I have a relatively young pothos (bought last fall), apparently lush and in good health. First he made a yellow leaf, now I notice that there are others that have changed color, have become whiter, and at the edges they begin to curl up (but not at the tip). I think they are about to turn yellow too (I attach photos). It seems to me that even the stems of some of these branches are dull in color and a little shriveled (third photo), but I confess that I don't remember what the stems looked like before. I have not done (I think) exaggerated wetting and I have not moved the plant. The only changes in this period were the removal of two final twigs to make cuttings and, about two weeks ago, the insertion of a Gesal universal fertilizer stick: could it be that?
I then noticed what I think is the beginning of an infestation of cochineals: on the leaves, in the part of the stem (especially the rear), a kind of white 'fluff' has formed (last two photos attached). In a couple of cases I also found the insect. I treated the plant (last Thursday) with Flortis oleosan plus insecticide, because I couldn't find anything else in the shop; and then for the next two days I cleaned all the parts where I found the fluff with the cotton bud soaked in a little alcohol. It seems to me that the problem is under control for now, because I have not found any other insects or other fluff, but I am worried about the leaves ... now there are no mealybugs? Is there anything I can do? I have read that some advise to check the roots: if I do, do I have to repot the plant then?
Thank you for the advice!
I read carefully what was written and looked at the photos and undoubtedly yours Photos it has a beginning of infestation due to the cottony cochineal. The product you used to fight it, it's not so good. It is in fact a pesticide based on white oil, which is correct against scale insects, but cypermethrin, a pyrethroid that acts by contact, is completely useless. If you take a look at the page dedicated to the cochineal, where its biology and physiology is described, you will realize that the real insect lives under those silky white formations that are a real shield that do not let anything pass, just the air. The white oil works well because it envelops all this formation and the insect dies of asphyxiation but the cypermethrin is useless, because it acts by contact, therefore it does not get to "touch" the insect. A pesticide based on white oil with the addition of a systemic insecticide would have been better, that is, it is absorbed by the plant, enters its lymphatic circulation and the insect takes it with nutrition. If you allow me, therefore, I would give you some advice: before buying a pesticide, study your enemy to understand what can be effective. Do not trust the nurserymen too much, in the end they are traders ... In any case, the white oil works. Also, if you act with cotton and alcohol, you can easily keep the infestation under control, since it is in the beginning.
As for the leaves you tell me you have this beautiful Photos for a year, that you have not moved it in position and that you always manage it in the same way. The only variable was the fertilizer and you don't tell me anything about it ... Personally I don't like, don't use and don't recommend them because you can't control how much product is given to the plant. Moreover, sometimes their action is too prolonged over time and this for many plants, sensitive to mineral salts, can be a damage. The Photos it is a medium sensitive plant to salinity. Perhaps your stick has released an excessive amount of mineral salts, all concentrated in one place (this is another reason why I do not recommend them), which may have caused the leaves to turn yellow, which is a symptom. I would therefore advise you to remove it. Then water the plant for a couple of months with demineralized water (the one that is used for irons so to speak, and that you find in supermarkets), in order to clean up the soil from any excesses present.
I hope I was clear. Good evening.
Dr. Maria Giovanna Davoli
Yellow leaves on pothos are never a good sign. But that doesn't necessarily mean the end for your plant, or even a serious illness. One of the primary causes of yellow leaves on Pothos is too much sun.
The pothos plant prefers moderate amounts of light and can even thrive in low light conditions. On the other hand, it does not tolerate direct sunlight. Yellow pothos foliage can be an indication that your plant is getting too much sun.
If you had that pothos in a south-facing window, move it to another location, or further away from the light. Alternatively, solve the yellow-leaf problem on pothos by hanging a curtain between the plant and the window.
Excess or inadequate fertilizer can also make pothos yellow. A monthly feed with water-soluble indoor plant food is sufficient.
Pothos with dark spots on the leaves
I need some advice for a pothos plant in my office: it has been having brown spots on its leaves for some time. The spots tend to dry out and after a while they become totally dry and brittle. The plant is not very vigorous and sheds few new leaves.
The plant is indoors, in a very large and bright room. It is never directly reached by the sun's rays and is far from drafts and the radiator.
Next to it is another pothos plant, in a small pot with a stick to climb on, which on the contrary looks great and is very vigorous.
The diseased plant is placed in a very large pot (about 40x40x40 cm). On average I give her a couple of liters of water to drink every 7-10 days, when I see that the earth on the surface is dry.
I attach two photos where you can see the spots.
In the same pot there is also another plant, with leaves similar to the pothos but a much thicker body (it could be a Dieffenbachia but I'm not sure, the stem is what you see in the second photo), which she also doesn't know. passes well. In this case the leaves appear flaccid and with a yellowish edge.
What can their problem be?
Does excessive absorption affect dieffenbachia?
If you water the plant too much, your plant can suffer. It can become difficult for the roots to absorb all the water, which can lead to your plant dying through root rot.
Can brown or yellow leaves turn green again?
Once your dieffenbachia plant is dry and the leaves change color, they will not return to their original color. Just cut them so they don't affect others.
If you don't pay immediate attention to your plant when the leaves begin to change color, you will hinder the growth and health of your molting plant, so keep an eye on it!
The green thumbs behind this article: Founder Kevin Espiritu
Not getting enough water
Even the pothos che is not getting enough water it can have yellow leaves at times.
Some plants are sensitive to drought, so they will start drying out without enough water and moisture.
The pothos will let you know that he is thirsty by lowering the leaves a little, which can also curl a little inwards.
What to do?
If some time has passed since the last watering, water well your pothos and its leaves should recover.
In extreme cases like these where it hasn't been watered in a long time, you might as well water well also the bottom of the soil of your plant, not just the top part of the topsoil.
Fill a sink with 5-6 centimeters of water, depending on the size of your plant.
Place the vase in the sink, letting it soak from the bottom for 5 minutes. Lift the plant e let all the excess water flow from the holes in the vase.
Put the plant back on saucer or in the toilet seat. If it accumulates in the saucer more water, remove it and let your plant dry a little longer so that you don't risk rotting.
Pothos with yellowing leaves
Yellow leaves on pothos are never a good sign. But that doesn't necessarily mean the end for your plant, or even a serious illness. One of the primary causes of yellow leaves on pothos is too much sun.
The pothos plant prefers moderate amounts of light and can even thrive in low light conditions. On the other hand, it does not tolerate direct sunlight. Yellow pothos foliage can indicate your plant is getting too much sun.
If you had that pothos in a south-facing window, move it to another position, or further away from the light. Alternatively, solve the yellow-leaf problem on pothos by hanging a sheer curtain between the plant and the window.
Excess or inadequate fertilizer can also make pothos leaves yellow. A monthly feed with a water-soluble indoor plant food is sufficient.
Watering and fertilizer for pothos plants
The plant was then placed in the pot, but the control and maintenance operations, or rather, those operations that allow the plant to survive are certainly not finished: it would be too easy, and the plant would die after a very short time.
Obviously you need to water the plant, but be careful: the pothos do not need a lot of water, as proceeding in this way would risk killing the plant, which manifests too much watering and water level with the yellowing of the leaves, which therefore must be kept in mind and, especially in winter, watering the plants every day is a procedure to be avoided.
How should you proceed to water the plant then?
It is necessary to use a nebulizer, or a classic spray nozzle such as that for glasses: in both cases, however, it is necessary to fill the instrument used with water only, and spray both on the ground and on the leaves, performing this action only and exclusively when the soil is very arid and dry.
Obviously, during the summer season, watering must be increased to ensure the right degree of humidity, always taking care to avoid water stagnation which is very harmful.
As far as fertilizing is concerned, it is necessary to use products that are very rich in nitrogen, dilute them in water and add them during the watering phase: fertilization must be carried out only and exclusively once a month, thus avoiding overdoing it.
Problems and remedies
- The leaves turn green: lack of light.
Move the plant to a bright place (not in the sun).
- The leaves turn yellow, there are dots on the lower page: attack by red spider, a parasite favored by the dry climate. Spray water over and under the leaves every day to neutralize pests
- Dark spots and black edges on the foliage: too cold and humid environment, move to warmth and wet less.
How to choose the right vase
Use a terracotta or plastic container, classic or bowl-shaped, recommended depth 20-25 cm.
Pairings: in large bowls it can live with small indoor plants: ficus benjamina, croton, African violet, fittonia, kalanchoe.