My experience of transplanting mature trees
Sometimes it is necessary to move already fruiting mature trees to a new place.
On a personal plot, the area of which is limited, this happens especially often, since, in an effort to make the most of the area, we often plant trees close to each other, and over time we have to plant them.
Reserve plants, intended to replace the dead, also need to be transferred to a new place sometime. What is the best time frame for a transplant?
Spring and autumn transplanting with a large clod of earth is laborious and technically difficult. Plants, due to large injuries, tolerate them painfully. I got good results when replanting trees at the beginning of winter with a frozen lump of earth. At this time, you can leave a smaller ball, which greatly facilitates the work.
For example, we transplanted mature trees - honeysuckle and plum at the age of 18 and 5-7 years, respectively. Transplanted like this. Around the honeysuckle stem, retreating from the plant at a distance of 0.5–0.8 meters, they dug a trench 25 centimeters wide and 60–70 centimeters deep. Starting from a depth of 30 cm, we gradually freed the roots from the ground with a pitchfork and chopped them off at the outer wall of the trench so that their length was 75-100 centimeters.
We cleaned the cuts of the roots with a garden knife. All branches were shortened to half their length, and the sections were covered with paint. Since that season the air temperature in November was about 1 degree C and even higher, the roots could not freeze. In this position, the tree remains until the earthen lump freezes and turns into a strong block that does not crumble when moved.
Later, snow falls and covers the bottom and walls of the trench. As a result, the lump remains not frozen to the ground at its base and is easily separated. We lifted the clod of earth and roots with the help of a wagi (a lever made of a strong pole) or a cable, which we laid around the clod in a loop. When tightening the loop of the cable, the core roots seemed to be sawn. When transporting the stem and the base of the skeletal branches, we tied rubber from car tubes.
Mats were placed on the bottom and sides of the car body to protect the branches from flooring. Then I cut off the injured roots, cover the cuts with garden varnish or paint.
At the site of the future planting, in advance, in the fall, we dig a hole with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the earthy clod of the dug plant.
It turns out to be about 80-100 centimeters wide, 70-80 centimeters deep. At the bottom of the planting pit, I pour a ten-centimeter layer of a mixture of nutrient soil, compost and peat faeces, 300 grams of ash and 200 grams of slow-acting mineral fertilizers.
Then we install a lump with a tree on this layer, keeping its previous position in relation to the cardinal points. After that, we align the tree vertically and fix it with stretch marks, metal spacers. We fill the spaces between the lump and the pit walls with fertile soil and compact it. And on top, we also throw it in additionally so that the tree or bush is covered with 8-10 centimeters deeper than its previous position.
Then we cover the planting site with manure and mats. With the appearance of snow, we collect it in this place, accumulate it and tamp it, and when thaws come, we cover it with earth. In the spring, we tie the trunks of the transplanted trees with damp burlap and periodically moisten it with water. We fill the soil of the trunk circles well with organic and mineral fertilizers and keep it in a loose state. Trees transplanted in this way normally take root and develop and then give a good harvest.
Similarly, plums of the varieties Renklod Severny, Eurasia and Domashnaya were transplanted on our site. The beginning of winter was favorable for transplanting. The fibrous root system was well preserved. The next year, the plants bore abundantly, gave fruit of normal size, no shedding of the ovaries was observed. I want to note that in winter you can even dig a garden under the snow, when the layer is still small. Frozen soil becomes so light and dry that usually hard work is not at all burdensome.
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How to transplant thuja from the soil
Differences in the procedure for transplanting thuja depend only on the age of the bush. If we are talking about a young plant, then the ground around it is bayonetted in a circle, after which the bush is dug up and transferred to a new place. The transplant of an adult plant is carried out according to the same scheme, but they only begin to bayonet the soil a year before planting.
In addition, transplanting a thuja implies the selection of the correct new place so that the tree is comfortable, you do not have to expend energy, except for the adaptation process. Thuja loves the sun and nothing should block the light from entering it, but at the same time, at noon, it is advisable for the tree to be in the shade so that the needles do not get burned and the bush does not dehydrate. The plant also does not develop well in a draft. It should not be in the new place.
Is it possible to transplant an adult thuja
Transplanting an adult thuja is a very troublesome process, but with a strong desire it is quite feasible. Basically, the success of the operation depends on the correct choice of a new place and the preliminary work carried out.
The site preparation procedure consists of the following processes:
- The main thing that is necessary for the successful growth of thuja is the choice of a suitable place. It is desirable that it be sunny, it should not be obstructed by buildings or tall trees. It is extremely important to fence the plant from drafts and wind, and provide shade for it at midday.
- Thuja is unpretentious to the composition of the soil, but it feels better on alkaline poor soil, not too close to groundwater. It grows well in clay, sandy loam and marshy areas.
- The site for the planting hole must be cleared of weeds and dug up to a depth of 20 cm.
How to transplant a big thuja
Transplanting large thujas is performed according to the following scheme:
- 4 months before the operation, it is necessary to dig a hole, which should be 60 cm larger than the earthen clod of the tree.
- Three weeks before transplanting, the bottom of the pit should be covered with humus (300 g) and wood ash (100 g). Then pour water into it and lay the soil (peat and river sand - 300 g each), it is also advisable to add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. It is allowed to use chipped bricks or stones as drainage.
- On a cloudy day, dig up a tree together with an earthen lump, retreating from the roots by 50 cm. You can remove it from the soil using a pitchfork. It is better to chop off strongly long roots, and then wrap them with burlap.
- Transfer the plant on a flat surface to the transplant site.
- Place the roots with soil in the planting hole so that they do not touch the fertilizer (the burlap can be left behind).
- Tamp thoroughly, getting rid of all air pockets.
- Water abundantly until the water stops going into the ground.
- Mulch the soil around the trunk.
Before rooting, it is recommended to water the transplanted thuja at least twice every 7 days.
How to transplant a small thuja
Transplanting young trees is usually not a problem. The procedure is carried out in almost the same way as is acceptable for large species, only with small bushes it is much easier to perform it, since it is usually done not from the ground, but from the pot.
The place for planting is chosen according to the rules for transplanting an adult plant, only with a certain amount of shading. For a small tree, the midday shade must be present. Also, during the first 2-3 years, young thuja needs diffused light. It is better to plant it in partial shade, otherwise you will have to close the shrub from the sun's rays on your own.
Why does a money tree need a transplant
Since Crassula belongs to succulents, for the most part growing rather slowly, it does not need frequent transplants. But to maintain decorativeness at the proper level, and, consequently, the magical "magical" properties attributed to the flower, you will have to do this from time to time. A coin, it is money, tree is transplanted in the following situations:
- The soil substrate has depleted, there are very few useful minerals left in it. In addition, the soil is gradually becoming salted as a result of the systematic application of fertilizers.
- The fat woman has outgrown her landing container, and it has become small for her. The roots crawled out through the drainage holes and appeared on the surface of the ground.
- There are clear signs of damage to the root system by a putrefactive infection or harmful insects. Roots can rot and decompose as a result of excessive moisture in the substrate.
- A new plant was purchased or donated, which is in a nondescript pot with a transport soil mixture. The bush is kept in quarantine and acclimatization for 2-3 weeks and only then relocated.
The Surfinia ampelous flower has more than twenty species, which differ in the color range of buds, the length of the shoots. The most popular varieties are presented in our selection:
- Surfinia Velvet (Surfinia Velvet) - a series of flowers characterized by increased resistance to pests and diseases. Possessing good seed germination rates.
The shoots of the flower reach a meter in length. Abundant flowering, long lasting. Suitable both for growing in containers and for decorating flower beds. In the open field, over time, it takes on the appearance of a green carpet, abundantly decorated with buds. Calibrachoa Surfinia (Calibrachoa surfinia) - it is distinguished by an abundance of flowering, rather small flowers.
The diameter of the opened "gramophone" is about three centimeters. The coloring is varied. There are also terry varieties that are distinguished by a special velvety buds.
Its flowers combine several shades of yellow, beautifully shimmering from a more intense to pale color. It blooms almost to frost.
Everything about growing bay leaves at home
Growing a bay leaf at home will require knowledge of its needs and growing conditions - all of which you will find in this guide. It is one of the most commonly used and well-known spices, and you can get fresh leaves any time of the year if you plant this plant. Learn all about how to grow a bay leaf in a pot on a windowsill and see for yourself all its benefits.
Laurel leaves give off an intense aroma that complements most Mediterranean dishes.
Bay leaves have a variety of uses, from decorative to culinary and medicinal.
Although this plant is an evergreen shrub or tree in its native Mediterranean, its growth is easily contained by pruning or container planting.
Laurel grows very slowly, which makes it even more suitable for potting at home.
Propagated by seeds and cuttings (twigs).
Soil and pot
Laurel has no special requirements for soil: it grows in any, with the exception of heavy and clayey, which causes waterlogging. Like many other plants, it prefers well-drained soil.
Drainage is very important, so choose a pot with large drain holes.
Start growing bay leaves in a small pot and transplant it into a larger container when you see roots coming out of the pot's drainage holes. Take your time to plant this plant in a large container at once. A laurel tree thrives when it gets a little cramped.
Types and varieties
If you plan to use bay leaves for cooking, it is very important that you grow a plant called Laurus nobilis. Other species of this plant, also called laurel, are not all edible.
There are several decorative varieties of laurel:
- Angustifolia is a narrow green leaf.
- Aurea - yellow foliage.
- Sweet Bay, also called Bay Laurel, is a bright green coloration.
- Undulata - The edges of the leaves are wavy.
How to grow bay leaves from seeds
Laurel seeds are very difficult and slow to germinate, so many people prefer to purchase a ready-made plant in a pot. If you want to grow bay leaves from seeds, here's what you need to do:
- Fill a small flat container with moist, loose soil.
- Sow the seeds and cover with a 1 to 2 cm layer of earth.
- Cover the container with plastic wrap, leaving an air hole on the side.
- The required temperature for germination is 20 C. Be prepared to wait 5-12 months before the seeds hatch.
This is the most difficult method, as germination takes a long time and attempts to grow laurel trees from seeds sometimes fail.
How to grow bay leaves from cuttings (twigs)
Ideal if you can get twigs of at least 15 cm from a healthy adult plant and plant them. The cuttings should be slightly firm, pliable, and green. This material is well suited for growing new bay leaves at home.
The more cuttings you take, the better your chances of successfully rooting a new plant.
- Mix equal parts earth, sand and vermiculite and fill a small container with this mixture.
- Remove the leaves from the cuttings except for the top two. Cut the top leaves in half horizontally.
- Dip the bay sprig in the liquid root growth stimulant and keep it there for the required amount of time according to the directions on the package.
- Stick the bottom of the laurel stalk into the potting mix to a depth of 5 to 6 cm.
- Compact the soil around the cuttings and spray with water to help the soil settle down by the stems.
- Cover the container with a clear plastic bag to create a moist rooting environment for cuttings.
- Place the cuttings in a warm, well-lit area, but not in direct sunlight. The air temperature should be up to 22 C.
- Monitor plantings daily, throw away rotten or withered cuttings. Water when the soil layer is 1-2 cm dry.
- Check the roots once a month to see if they are growing. Gently pull the twigs upward to feel if there is any resistance.
- Once the roots are 2 to 3 cm, transplant the new plants into separate pots.
Propagation of laurel by cuttings can take several months. This time is necessary for the development of a normal root system suitable for planting. However, sometimes the twigs do not take root.
If you are not a fan of problems and experiments, then it is best to just buy a small laurel tree from a garden store. This way, you can enjoy it without frustration and effort.
How to care
To keep fresh seasoning available at any time of the year, there are several guidelines on how to care for a laurel tree at home.
Bay leaves are drought tolerant but appreciates regular watering.Always let the soil dry out between waterings to keep the roots from rotting, but don't let the plant sit out of water for too long.
Laurel responds well to a shower at room temperature. At the same time, cover the pot with soil with a plastic bag.
Laurel prefers a bright location, but can grow in shade. Not afraid of drafts.
In spring and summer, sun protection is required on the windowsills of the southern sides.
The bay tree needs to be fed with universal fertilizer twice a year: in spring and summer. A liquid fertilizer for cacti or palms works well.
Diseases and pests
Bay leaves are rarely affected by diseases and insects. In fact, it is itself often used to control pests of other plants.
- Laurel can be damaged by scale insects, worms, on the secretions of which a sooty fungus settles. Clearly visible accumulations of worms are removed with cotton swabs dipped in soapy water.
- If laurel leaves turn yellow and fall off, it may be caused by excessive or insufficient watering of the plants.
- Leaf spots are often caused by boggy roots and excess moisture.
- Yellowed leaves can also be caused by nutrient deficiencies in the soil. To correct this problem, transplant your plant into fresh, well-drained soil.
The bay tree does not grow very quickly in pots, so replant it no more than two to three years later.
Repotting is best done in the spring. Use fertile soil and good drainage as the plant does not like stagnant water.
Pruning is an important part of caring for a laurel tree to contain large growth and give it a decorative shape.
It is usually carried out in the spring when new shoots start to grow.
Remove dried, damaged or diseased leaves regularly if they appear.
How to plant, propagate and care for a laurel tree at home - video
If you have grown your plant yourself, from cuttings or seeds, then start harvesting from the second or third year of its life.
For seasoning, harvest the largest leaves: the older the leaf, the stronger the flavor.
The harvested leaves need to be dried, as fresh bay leaves are quite bitter. From the moment of cutting it should take from 48 to 72 hours. Of course, the store sells bay leaves that have dried much longer, but freshly dried leaves have a more pleasant aroma.
There are many reasons to plant a laurel tree on your windowsill. They are attractive, shiny foliage that stays green all year round at home. It is a delight with a sweet aroma with a spicy nutmeg flavor. Be sure to get involved in growing bay leaves and become the owner of an evergreen, glossy decoration for your home, the leaves of which are used in many recipes.
When is it better to transplant grapes to a new place, taking into account the characteristics of the climate
As well as pruning a vine, and transplanting a bush is best done during periods of relative dormancy of the plant: early spring or late autumn. The specific dates depend on the climate of the growing region and the prevailing weather conditions. Spring transplantation is preferable for residents of areas with a cold climate - during the summer, the plant has time to take root and prepare for winter. In regions with dry summers, it is better to move grapes in the fall, since a fragile bush can die from drought and heat.
In some cases, the transplant can be performed in the summer, but the success of the operation will be higher if the bush is moved with an earthen lump. Additionally, you will need to protect the plant from the scorching sun rays.
Terms and features of spring movement
In the spring, grapes are transplanted to a new place before the onset of sap flow and bud swelling. In different regions, this moment comes at different times, so it is better to focus on the soil temperature. The optimal period is when the roots of the grapes awaken and begin to grow. This happens when the earth warms up to an average of +8 0 C.
Spring transplant is preferable to carry out:
- in the south - at the end of March
- in the middle lane - in early to mid-April
- in the northern regions - at the end of April - beginning of May.
In the spring, a bush transplant is recommended before the buds swell.
To activate the awakening of the roots, in the spring, before planting, the planting pit is watered with hot water.... After planting, the ground part of the plant is sprinkled with earth. This slows down the growth of shoots and leaves and gives time for the restoration of the root system.
In 2006, I transplanted the entire vineyard to a new place, and this is more than 100 bushes. Two winegrowers helped me. In April, before the eyes swell, in one day they dug out bushes from an old vineyard and planted in a new place. The shrubs were 2 to 5 years old. The lunge was 3 bushes. The only pity is that I had to remove all the sleeves to better take root. I am still restoring the above-ground part.
Autumn transplant: timing and specifics
Transplanting grapes in the fall is carried out one and a half to two weeks after the plant sheds its leaves... At this time, the upper part of the bush comes to rest. But the root system, which is still in warm soil, is quite active. Thanks to this, the plant will have time to take root in a new place before the onset of frost. A favorable period for moving the bush is considered:
- in the south - the first decade of November
- in the middle lane - mid-late October
- in the northern regions - early to mid-October.
However, with an autumn transplant, there is always a risk of death of the bush from too early frosts. Therefore, when choosing a specific date, gardeners should take into account the forecasts of weather forecasters and complete the procedure no later than two weeks before the expected drop in temperatures.
Another advantage of autumn planting is frequent precipitation, which saves the grower from the need for frequent watering of the transplanted bush.
Regardless of the climate and variety, grapes transplanted to a new place in the autumn period require mandatory shelter for the winter.
Hawthorn can be planted before winter or spring. The bush planted in autumn begins to bear fruit from the age of six.
Advantages of autumn planting:
- favorable prices for seedlings
- wide range of varieties
- seedlings are sometimes sold with fruits - there is an opportunity to immediately appreciate the taste
- the plants do not require post-plant care, as in autumn the conditions for rooting are ideal.
Hawthorn is planted at the same time as other horticultural crops. The approximate date is October. Before the onset of frost, the bush must have time to take root, that is, form young overgrown roots.
Plants that have taken root in the fall will better endure the current winter. Bushes planted in autumn will be hardened and will be stronger than spring-planted plants. Next year they will quickly start growing.