Autumn planting of bulbs: how to understand that it's too late

Autumn planting of bulbs: how to understand that it's too late

It is better to start the transformation of the estate plot with planting tuberous or bulbous flowers. They will decorate the garden with a colorful palette from the earliest spring to late autumn. However, to get hyacinths and daffodils in April, their bulbs must be planted in the fall. How to do it correctly, let's figure it out.

Why you can't store bulbs

Even experienced gardeners sometimes have problems with storing bulbs. To preserve the tuber, it needs to provide sufficient moisture. This indicator in the room where flowers hibernate should be at least 70%.

Before laying tubers for the winter, they must be carefully examined for the presence of diseases. Any rotten bulb can kill all wintering tubers. Pests can hide in the planting material dug out of the ground. To completely get rid of diseases and uninvited residents, the bulbs are disinfected. For this, the material is first thoroughly washed, and then kept for about half an hour in a solution of karbofos. Then the bulbs are thoroughly dried, get rid of the remnants of the earth, old roots, and so on. Then they are placed in boxes in one layer and stored in a ventilated room, where there are no drafts. The material should not be stored in a closed container, as the ethylene secreted by the bulbs is detrimental to developing children.

To preserve the tubers, material overwintering outside the soil must be reviewed weekly. Whitish or yellowish spots on tulip tubers are a sign of a putrefactive process. Such copies should be thrown away immediately. Both soft hyacinth bulbs and darkened parts of daffodils should be removed from storage.

Another problem when storing bulbs is creating an optimal temperature regime. The material should not grow, but at the same time it should not freeze. In the room where the bulbs overwinter, the temperature must be maintained at 15 ° C, maximum 17 ° C. It is generally better to plant tubers of trihydria, muscari and crocuses in the ground under any conditions - it is impossible to keep small bulbs until spring. They will either dry out or rot.

How long can you plant

Bulbs of tulips, hyacinths and other spring flowers take root in an average of two weeks. Experienced gardeners know when stable frosts come in their region. Having counted off half a month from this period, you can find out the deadline for planting plants in the ground.

However, the weather often presents surprises - either a long thaw after frost, or a prolonged Indian summer. If, after planting, the bulbs not only took root, but also sprouted, then you should not panic. It is enough to simply cover young growth. For these purposes, agrotechnical cloth, hay, fallen leaves or straw are suitable. Tulips and daffodils do not need to be covered at all - they are adapted for wintering under the snow.

Sometimes the situation is different - the frost suddenly escaped. You should not despair either - usually the first frost is replaced by a thaw. During this period, you need to have time to plant the tubers. This option is acceptable if the ground is not frozen to the depth of planting.

You can plant it even in frost, but at the same time the grooves must be prepared, sprinkled with dry soil. If the top layer of the earth is covered with an ice crust, the earth is frozen by 1-2 cm, but is deeper loose, then it is better to plant bulbous ones. To protect future plants, it is better to cover such a late planting with spruce branches, non-woven fabric or straw.

Important points to consider when boarding late

It is necessary to start planting bulbs in the ground in the fall when the temperature drops to 5 ° C. A sufficiently low temperature will not allow the bulb to begin active growth, and for the rooting of the plant, this is the optimal mode. When planting in autumn, it is impossible to water the grooves, but it is worthwhile to make additional mulching of the soil.

Tubers planted before winter must be protected from contact with groundwater, from excessively dry soil and from frost. The material must be planted in such a way that the soil underneath is sufficiently moist, and the soil covering them is dry. If the planting is carried out in an area with a high level of groundwater, then the bulbous need to be protected from external precipitation. To do this, after planting the tubers, the tamped grooves are covered with a film, high-density agrotextile, a shield, and so on.

Usually spring flowers are able to grow normally without being dug up annually. They need to be transplanted every four years, so you should not disturb the tubers every year. Experienced summer residents use one trick. Long before Indian summer, they will organize a future flower bed. To do this, they dig plastic flowerpots into the ground, fill them with earth, and cover them on top with a layer of compost, non-woven material or a similar covering. The main task of this manipulation is to prevent the earth from hardening and hardening before the bulbs are planted. After planting the tubers, they are covered with spruce branches or other improvised means.

Any summer resident can please the eye after winter snow with bright hyacinths, muscari or crocuses. Even if there was a natural failure, and winter came earlier or much later, then you should not worry. Spring flowers tolerate frost rather well. It is better to plant bulbous plants in a flower garden than to try to organize their wintering outside the soil.

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How to plant a beautiful flowerbed of bulbous crops in the fall

  1. What bulbous plants are best planted in autumn
  2. Planting rules for bulbs in autumn
  3. Recommended landing dates
  4. Selection and processing of planting material
  5. Site selection
  6. Soil preparation
  7. Landing technology
  8. Flower bed design options
  9. With tulips
  10. With daffodils
  11. With muscari
  12. With crocuses
  13. With hyacinths

Garden and vegetable garden: Autumn planting of bulbs 1

Bulbous plants are the key to spring beauty and brightness of your garden. These plants bloom when the trees have not yet blossomed, so they can be planted not only in a flower bed and along paths, but also under trees and shrubs.

Tulips, daffodils and lilies, in which the bulbs are larger, and small-bulbous, which include scilla, snowdrops, muscari, crocuses, can be planted until the end of October. It is necessary that the bulb rooted well, but at the same time did not germinate before the onset of cold weather.

Pick-up location

Bulbous plants start growing in the fall, so it is very important that this start is successful. What is needed for this? Nutritious soil. You will have to prepare it in advance. You know that it is undesirable to plant bulbs in the same place?

Pathogens may remain in the soil, and even bulbs treated with fungicides are at risk. In order not to expose the plants to the danger of infection and to preserve their own planting material, it is better to plant them in a new place.

It should be sunny, inaccessible to strong winds, with a low level of groundwater, with fertile permeable soil. Remember about acidity level! Bulbous love slightly acidic or neutral soils... Experts advise to prepare a place for planting bulbs in advance, 2 months in advance. Introduction compost, acidity adjustment, the addition of soil loosening and moisture-retaining components - do not neglect anything!

Planting bulbs

It is known that planting depth you need to choose this way: in loose soil - 3 heights, in dense soil - 2 heights of the size of the bulbs.

How to protect planting bulbs in the ground from rodents

You also need to take care that rodents do not spoil your plants. Rodents are insidious in that the gardener will notice the consequences of sabotage only in the spring, when the long-awaited sprouts will not appear in the flower beds ... After all, in the cold winter, the diet of mice and rats is significantly reduced, and the juicy and sweet bulbs of tulips, gladioli, lilies, snowdrops, hyacinths, iris tubers attract them as a favorite delicacy. They can destroy all plantings without a trace.

But there are different ways to protect the bulbs in the soil from rodents, using which you can save your plants.

  • planting bulbs in special containers... It can be either purchased lattice containers or made from improvised means. Florists for these purposes adapt plastic fruit crates, buckets with holes, cut plastic bottles and much more. To prevent rodents from getting to the bulbs from above, they are covered with thorny spruce branches, although many argue that it does not scare off mice at all
  • the use of rose hips, cut for the winter roses: they are buried in the area next to the bulbous plantings. It is quite possible that even a hungry mouse is unlikely to spoil its fur with such a hidden "surprise"
  • scattering the fruits of burdock in places where bulbous hibernation, can also scare away uninvited guests who do not like tenacious sticky balls
  • planting other plants on the bulbs that mice lovethat they do not like or pose a danger to rodents - cinoglossum, daffodils
  • special scarers: This method cannot be called mechanical, but nevertheless it does not have a chemical effect. Some gardeners claim that ultrasonic devices do an excellent job, while others scold them. Perhaps it all depends on the quality of the devices.


Bulb planting site

Again, I will give the basic principles, and you really adapt to them. What do you need to protect bulbs wintering in the open field? From frost, contact with groundwater and from excess dryness of the soil... What does it mean? This means that the bulbs must spend the winter in soil that is moist below their planting level and dry above them. Complicated? Far from it!

If you planted the bulbs in a place with high groundwater levels, make sure that precipitation cannot penetrate your plantings for the winter period. That is, cover this area with a film, a shield, a profile sheet - whatever you can. This method is called dry wintering.

Keep in mind that bulbs that have been growing in a permanent place for more than one year winter better. Therefore, you should not dig up tulips, crocuses, daffodils and other bulbs every year. They are can grow without replanting for 3-4 years, this period will not at all affect the size of the plant, the duration and decorativeness of flowering.


Possibilities of combination in pot ensembles

When choosing plant combinations, the main task should be to extend the flowering time. Tulips and daffodils are the main stars of potted gardens. But they are just starting to break through and form leaves when snowdrops, crocuses, muscari, spring workers and other primroses are already actively blooming. Try to plant the plants in tiers for mixed compositions, focusing on the timing of flowering. Moreover, they are arranged in tiers both literally and figuratively. Tulip bulbs need to be planted much deeper than crocus or snowdrop bulbs. Thus, in a pot, plants are located at different depths and bloom at different times: while the primroses are blooming with might and main, the tulips will only begin to hatch.

Until February, until the first signs of the beginning of growth of primroses appear, the pots will actually be empty. They can be planted with catch crops that can beautify the garden in autumn and even winter. At the same time, it is better to choose plants whose root system will not damage the bulbous ones themselves and will not deplete the soil too much. Winter Erica, pansies or ornamental cabbage are quite suitable for the role of temporary inhabitants of containers with bulbs.

Can be combined with bulbs and perennials. They can be planted with pot and tub woody, herbaceous perennials like santolins, thyme, geyher, lavender, cuts, badana, boxwood, cereals (especially calamus, which today is increasingly being introduced into the design of potted gardens), ivy and other winter-green stars. And it is as if their sudden appearance next to more "permanent" plants will always surprise you no less than on a full-fledged flower garden.

Planting several types of bulbs in one container. © Natasha Starkell


Autumn planting of perennials

Perennial flowers can also be planted in autumn and before winter - they will give even stronger shoots than annual plants. As experts say, growing perennials from winter is not only possible, but even necessary.

Carefully consider the choice of perennials for planting in the fall, because many of them will grow well, strengthen and grow strong plants, but they will begin to bloom only a few years after planting. So that you are not unpleasantly surprised by such an event, choose express varieties of perennials for planting, which will bloom already in the first year after planting.

Perennials are planted at the end of October in slightly frozen soil. In principle, the method is no different from planting annuals, and therefore we will not repeat ourselves, we will only mention the main thing: do not forget to lightly tamp the soil in order to save the seeds from pests.

After the spring melting of snow, it is advisable to cover the sowing site with a film, which will need to be removed immediately after germination.

Be sure to also protect the seeds from birds and wash-off by spring rain and snow.

In the phase of 3-4 true leaves, the planted plants dive, while stimulating the root for growth and planting perennial seedlings in the soil to the level of the cotyledonous leaves.

What perennials to plant in the fall and before winter?

As in the previous section of the article, we present some perennial flowers that can be planted in the fall: rudbeckia, primrose, euphorbia, lupine, small petals, oriental poppy, bellflower, dicentra, delphinium, heuchera, Gaillardia, gypsophila, buzulnik, alpine aster, aconite, aquilegia and others.


Watch the video: How to Plant Bulbs in the Spring or Fall