Pachypodium: home care, growing from seeds, photo

Pachypodium: home care, growing from seeds, photo

Houseplants

Pachypodium (lat.Pachypodium) - a genus of treelike plants of the Kutrov family, which grow in the arid regions of Madagascar, Africa and Australia. There are 23 species in the genus. Translated from Greek "pachypodium" means "thick leg": the plant has a voluminous, fleshy and thorny trunk.
In nature, the pachypodium can reach a height of eight, and in diameter - one and a half meters, but at home this tree does not grow above a meter.

Planting and caring for the pachypodium

  • Bloom: in the spring, for the first time - in the sixth or seventh year of life.
  • Lighting: bright diffused light.
  • Temperature: in summer - from 20 to 30 ºC, in winter - 16-18 ºC. Protect the plant from drafts!
  • Watering: in spring and summer - moderate, when the substrate dries out to a depth of 1 cm, in winter - sparse and scarce. After dropping the leaves, watering is stopped. The short-stemmed species requires poor watering throughout the year.
  • Air humidity: usual.
  • Top dressing: from early spring to mid-autumn, once a month with fertilizers for cacti.
  • Rest period: from approximately November to March.
  • Transfer: young plants - every spring, adults - once every 3-4 years.
  • Reproduction: seeds, less often cuttings.
  • Diseases: fungal rot.
  • Pests: spider mites, thrips.
  • Properties: the plant has poisonous juice!

Read more about growing pachypodiums below.

Botanical description

Pachypodiums are succulent shrubs or trees, the characteristic feature of which, despite the many differences between species and varieties, is a thick trunk that retains a supply of water in case of drought. Otherwise, the appearance of the pachypodium species is diverse and ranges from bottle-shaped dwarfs to cactus-like trees. Almost all pachypodium species have spines, which are grouped in threes or pairs and are arranged in spirals or rings around the trunk. Branching is also characteristic of plants of this genus, however, there are species among the pachypodiums that do not form branches. Unlike other representatives of the Kutrovy family, the juice of the pachypodiums is not milky, but transparent, although just as poisonous.

In indoor culture, the pachypodium plant grows from 30 to 150 cm, and its life span is from 3 to 15 years.

Pachypodium care at home

Growing conditions

The pachypodium needs a lot of light and is not afraid of the sun's rays. In the summer, he will feel great on the balcony or in the garden, but he needs to be accustomed to the open air. It is better to keep the flower indoors on the southern, southwestern or southeastern windowsill. When spring comes after short winter days, the pachypodium should also be gradually taught to the effects of direct sunlight.

The pachypodium loves fresh air, but does not tolerate drafts. The temperature in summer does not play a special role for the plant: the pachypodium grows well and develops at both 20 and 30 ˚C. In winter, the plant needs a cool content: the pachypodium spends its rest period at 16-18 ˚C.

Watering

Caring for your home pachypodium is easy. In spring and summer, watering it should be moderate so that the soil in the pot is slightly moist all the time. If the plant lacks water, it will shed its leaves and lose its attractiveness, and if there is a lot of moisture, the pachypodium at home will begin to painfully stretch out, which will also not add decorative effect to it. Water the plant when the potted soil dries out to a depth of 1 cm. For the short-stemmed pachypodium, poor watering throughout the year is sufficient. If the plant has dropped its leaves, stop watering altogether and the leaves will grow back in 5-6 weeks.

The plant does not need high air humidity, but it will graciously take your care if you wipe its leaves with a damp sponge from time to time and spray it with settled water at room temperature from a spray bottle. By the way, water for irrigation also needs to be defended.

Fertilizer

The pachypodium plant is fertilized from early spring, when new shoots begin to grow, until mid-autumn. Top dressing in the form of a fertilizer solution for cacti is applied on a pre-moistened soil once a month.

You cannot fertilize the pachypodium for a month after transplanting and when it is sick.

Before entering the dormant period, feeding is stopped and resumed only next spring.

Transfer

Young pachypodiums need to be transplanted into a larger pot every spring, and adults once every three or even four years. Moderately acidic soil for cacti is optimal for plants. If it was not found in the store, you can make a substrate from equal parts of river coarse sand, sod and leafy soil. To improve drainage qualities, brick chips or charcoal should be added to the substrate. However, this does not exclude the need to place a layer of expanded clay into the pot when transplanting, filling the container by a third of the volume.

When replanting an indoor pachypodium, try to be careful not to damage the plant's root system. If the succulent is healthy, simply transfer it from the old pot to a new one and fill the remaining space with potting soil. Free the plant with diseased roots from the old soil, remove the rotten or dried out areas, treat the wounds with charcoal powder, and only then complete the transplant.

Flowering pachypodium

The indoor pachypodium flower grows very slowly, so you have to wait six or seven years for its first flowering, but if the plant is poorly or improperly looked after, it may not bloom at all. Follow the rules for caring for a succulent, do not allow drafts in the room, make sure that the plant has enough food and light, and then one day you will be lucky to see pachypodium flowers.

Virulence

The pachypodium secretes a poisonous sap, which irritates the mucous membranes and corrodes wounds on the skin, so it must be washed off immediately with plenty of water.

In the photo: How the pachypodium blooms in the apartment

Reproduction of the pachypodium

The pachypodium is propagated by seeds, which you will have to buy, because it is difficult to get them yourself at home. Sowing is carried out to a depth of half a centimeter, the container is covered with glass or film and kept in a bright place at a temperature of 20 ˚C. When seedlings appear, the cover is removed, but not suddenly, giving the seedlings the opportunity to gradually adapt to the conditions of the room. Fortified seedlings are planted in separate pots and looked after as if they were adult plants. However, it should be remembered that the pachypodium grows from seed very slowly.

Reproduction of the pachypodium by cuttings rarely gives results, since parts of its stem do not form roots well, but there have been cases of successful rooting of the top of the plant, in which the base has rotted. It was only necessary to cut the pachypodium at a height of 15 cm with a sharp sterile instrument, process the cut with charcoal powder, plant the top in a substrate for an adult plant and place it in a well-lit place.

Pests and diseases

Diseases and their treatment

The pachypodium at home is very sensitive to excess moisture, therefore it is prone to various rot. So that the plant does not get sick with fungal diseases, its watering must be balanced. Keep in mind that this succulent is easier to tolerate a lack of moisture than excessive moisture, from which its stem becomes thinner and rots, leaves turn black and fall off.

If the flower shows signs of decay, immediately stop watering, place the plant in a warm place, treat it and the substrate in which the pachypodium grows with a fungicide solution and review the watering regime so that no relapses occur in the future.

In the photo: Flowering pachypodium at home

Pests and the fight against them

In a room with dry air, the pachypodium can be infected by spider mites, which suck out cell sap from plants. Due to their small size, it is difficult to notice these pests, but if you find a thin cobweb on the plant, immediately start fighting the ticks: wash the flower under a warm shower and try to slightly increase the humidity in the room so that the ticks become uncomfortable. This is achieved by spraying the pachypodium every night with warm, settled water. If the pests have multiplied, you will have to destroy them with acaricide: Aktara, Aktellik, Akarin or Fitoverm.

In the same conditions - at high temperature and low humidity in the room - thrips, which also feed on cell sap, can parasitize on the pachypodium. Light spots and silvery streaks will begin to appear on the upper side of the leaves, and pests can be found on the underside of the leaf plate. These insects are destroyed with the same preparations as ticks.

Types and varieties

Pachypodium lamerei

Or madagascar palm - a tree up to six meters high with a thorny, thick trunk. Adult plants with the arrangement of leaves at the top of the trunk resemble a palm tree, which is why this species got its second name. The stem of the Madagascar palm is erect, thickened and lignified in the lower part and covered with protruding tubercles located in a spiral, each of which contains three powerful spines. At the top of the stem, a rosette is formed of elongated lanceolate petiolate leaves of a dark green color, which can reach 20 to 40 cm in length. Three bare spines are located under each leaf. The flowers of this pachypodium are pinkish or creamy white, with a yellow center, up to 11 cm in diameter. The fruits are green, oval. At home, the pachypodium Lamera can reach a height of no more than half a meter.

The plant has the following varieties:

  • typica - pachypodium with leaves pubescent on the underside;
  • ramosum - a form with a branched trunk, leaves with a pronounced median vein and white flowers collected in umbrellas up to 10 cm in diameter.

Photo: Pachypodium lamerei

Pachypodium geayi

It is a tree with a thick and thorny trunk, reaching a height of 3 to 6 meters. At a young age, this species is very similar to Lamer's pachypodium, but its leaves are narrower, only 1-3 cm wide, and pubescent. Young spines are light gray in color, but their tips are black. The flowers are white with a yellow center. In indoor culture, the plant reaches a height of 50-60 cm.

Photo: Pachypodium geayi

Pachypodium short-stemmed (Pachypodium brevicaule)

When there are no leaves on it, it resembles the gray stones surrounding it in nature: the stem of the plant is flat, tuberous, prickly, up to 60 cm high. This species blooms with elongated yellow flowers.

In the photo: Pachypodium brevicaule

Pachypodium saundersii

A succulent with an almost spherical gray-green stem, reaching a height of one and a half meters. The plant is equipped with a few thorns up to 2.5 cm long. Its leaves are broadly lanceolate and pointed at the ends. The Saunders pachypodium forms many white flowers with a pink stripe on the petals.

Photo: Pachypodium saundersii

Pachypodium succulentum

This is a plant with a turnip root, gradually turning into a thickened tuber with a diameter of up to 15 cm, which, higher, becomes a woody stem with age, fleshy and branched, reaching a height of 60 to 90 cm.On young branches, there are paired spines 1-2 cm long and slightly pubescent lanceolate leaves up to 5 cm long and up to 1 wide. In summer, bell-shaped pinkish flowers with a red pharynx, reaching 4 cm in diameter, open on the plant.

In the photo: Pachypodium succulentum

Pachypodium densiflorum

It is a slow growing succulent shrub up to 45 cm tall. It has a fleshy prickly gray-green trunk up to 30 cm in diameter, decorated with a rosette of leaves at the top, green on the upper side and gray tomentose below. The flowers of this pachypodium are up to 3 cm in diameter, bright yellow, tubular, with a widened end and yellow anthers forming a cone.

In the photo: Pachypodium densiflorum

Pachypodium horombense

A short succulent with a wide, smooth and thickened silvery-green trunk at the base and small, narrow gray-green leaves forming a rosette at the ends of the branches. Large yellow flowers of the plant are located on long pedicels.

Photo: Pachypodium horombense

Pachypodium meridionale

Under natural conditions, it can reach 3 m, but in a pot culture its growth is limited to 120 cm.The leaves of this pachypodium are green, long and narrow, the trunk is silvery brown, smooth, up to 60 cm in diameter, and large flowers with pink petals and a reddish corolla have a pleasant smell.

Pachypodium rosette (Pachypodium rosulatum)

It is a fleshy succulent with cylindrical, upright branches and caudex. The trunk of the plant is short, thickened at the base, gray-green. The branches are densely covered with thorns. Glossy, leathery, narrowed-oblong green leaves with a light midrib are located at the ends of the branches in whorls or rosettes. Greenish-yellow or yellow tubular flowers are collected in few-flowered racemes on long pedicels.

This plant has a variety:

  • graceful (Pachypodium rosulatum var. Gracilius) - shrub 40-60 cm high with gray or light brown caudex, rounded and slightly compressed laterally, smooth or covered with dense spines. The branches of the plant are short, winding, sometimes smooth, sometimes thorny. The leaves are collected in rosettes on the horses of the branches. The flowers are tubular with a widened end, bright yellow, gathered in groups on long pedicels.

In the photo: Pachypodium rosette (Pachypodium rosulatum)

Pachypodium rutenbergianum

It is also a caudex plant, which in natural conditions reaches a height of 8 m, but in culture its growth is limited to 60 cm.The branches of this succulent are short and covered with thorns up to 1 cm long.Glossy dark green oblong leaves with a light midrib are formed at the ends of the branches into rosettes ... They reach 15 in length and 4 cm in width. Large white flowers with a tube extended towards the end are collected 3-4 pieces in terminal inflorescences.

Photo: Pachypodium rutenbergianum

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Kutrovye
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Indoor plants Beautifully flowering Ornamental deciduous succulents Indoor trees Plants on P


Verbena: planting seedlings at home, growing tricks

Growing verbena from seeds is not an easy but fun process. It requires patience from flower growers, exact fulfillment of planting rules and creation of the necessary conditions for seedlings. If you follow them, you can get an excellent result that will delight you with bright, lush and long flowering.

  1. Is it possible to take seeds from verbena
  2. What verbena seeds look like
  3. When to plant verbena seeds for seedlings
  4. How to grow verbena seedlings from seeds at home
  5. Growing conditions
  6. Seed stratification
  7. How to plant verbena seeds
  8. Follow-up care
  9. When and how to dive seedlings
  10. Recommendations and common problems
  11. Conclusion

Description of the flower

Calibrachoa is an annual plant, most often planted in flowerpots and hanging pots to accentuate the spherical shape of this flower culture.

The flowers can hardly be called large - they are only 3 cm in diameter, but the unconventional appearance of the calibrachoa is created by their mind-boggling amount: these balls are simply dotted with them from top to bottom.

In addition, in modern times, breeders have bred many different colors of flowers (they just used to be exclusively purple), as well as forms - now there are terry calibrachoa, which some may confuse with petunia-surfinia.


Brief rules for growing strelitzia

The table shows brief rules for caring for an arrow at home.

Lighting levelScattered but bright beams are required. The east or west side is ideal.
Content temperatureDuring the development period, the flower will be satisfied with the usual room temperature - 20-25 degrees, but it should spend the winter in a cool (about 14-16 degrees).
Watering modeDuring development, the plant requires moderate watering - they try to keep the soil in a slightly moist state. In winter, the substrate is moistened about once every 10 days.
Air humidityStrelitzia needs a fairly high humidity; on dry hot days, its foliage should be sprayed.
The soilThe soil for growing strelitzia should be fertile, light and consist of peat, leaf and sod land in equal parts.
Top dressingThe entire period of development and flowering, the bushes are fertilized every 10 days, alternating organic matter with mineral compositions.
TransferYoung bushes are moved annually, and older specimens are moved about once every 3 years.
BloomFlowering occurs in the spring and lasts about 1.5 months.
Dormant periodThe dormant period occurs in the winter, but is poorly expressed.
ReproductionFresh seeds, side shoots, division of bushes over 6 years old.
PestsAphids, spider mites, and scale insects or mealybugs.
DiseasesThe flower has sufficient immunity to most diseases, but sometimes it rots due to frequent overflow.

Features of the flower! Strelitzia juice contains poisonous substances.


How to care for chocolate mint at home

Caring for the mint grown in the mini garden on the windowsill is not difficult at all. To make the plant feel good, it is enough to perform the following work:

  1. Watering. This item can be called the basis of care. It must be done regularly, while avoiding either drying out of the soil or waterlogging.
  2. Spraying the plant. It helps not only to maintain the humidity acceptable for mint at the desired level, but also cleans the leaves from dust. As a result, the bushes become lush and bright.
  3. Top dressing. Fertilizers can only be applied in summer. In winter, the plant does not need feeding. For mint, nitrogen-containing mineral complexes or organics, for example, an infusion of chicken droppings, are suitable.
  4. Maintaining the temperature at the right level. For chocolate mint, normal values ​​are +20 .. + 22 ° C. During the summer period, it is better to take the pot with the plant to the balcony or garden. In winter, you need to protect the mint with a screen from the hot air coming from the heating radiators.
  5. Lighting. Mint is a plant that prefers partial shade in outdoor conditions. Therefore, it is better not to put containers with bushes on the southern windows. When there is no choice, you should install gauze screens between the window glass and the plant. In winter, when the days are too short, the stalks of the mint can stretch out and the leaves become smaller. To avoid such a plant, it is better to supplement the illumination with fluorescent or special phyto lamps, bringing the duration of illumination to 8 hours per day.
  6. Pinching off the leaves, that is, harvesting chocolate mint, should be on the top of the plant. This will stimulate the regrowth of new shoots.

Advice. If the plant bloomed in the room, then you need to wait until almost all the buds open and cut off the stems, leaving 2-3 cm from the soil level. After such a radical measure, the bush will branch more strongly.

Growing chocolate mint indoors is quite a simple matter, the result of which is a double benefit - cute green bushes are pleasing to the eye and fresh, fragrant leaves are always at hand.


How quickly do the seedlings germinate and what is the germination rate of the seeds?

From the reviews about the problems with the germination of this plant, we can conclude that the seeds germinate poorly. From 5 seeds planted, you will get 2-3 plants. Considering the unnatural climate for him, this is a good result.

Transplanting a pachypodium cactus into a new pot

With proper care, the first shoots can be seen as early as 1 week after planting in the ground. And the growth rate is well accelerated by the lower heating of the greenhouse. If the sprouts have not appeared, then it is worth looking for the cause of the failure in excessive watering or insufficient lighting.

Saplings grow together until the first two leaves appear, after which they are dived into separate pots. Even at this age, seedlings are sensitive to water, they are gradually accustomed to air and light, the latter should be diffused.

Watering continues to be done from a spray bottle when the topsoil dries up. Also keep an eye on the water level in the pan under the plant pot. When laying the soil for replanting, take 1/3 of the pot under good drainage from stones, for example. Make holes in the pot to drain off excess water.


Watch the video: Pachypodium u0026 Pilea Peperomioides Time Lapse Jul 7 - Aug 4