Juniper Cossack (Latin Juniperus sabina) - coniferous shrub, the most common species of the genus Juniper of the Cypress family. In the wild, this species is found in forests and groves of the steppe zone, on sand dunes and rocky slopes of Minor and Southeast Asia, Central Europe, the Caucasus, Primorye, the Urals and Siberia.
Planting and caring for Cossack juniper
- Landing: in the spring, before the start of sap flow, or in September.
- Lighting: bright sunlight.
- The soil: well-drained, light and loose, in an area with deep groundwater.
- Watering: infrequent even in drought: 2-3 times per summer with a water consumption of 10 to 30 liters per plant, depending on its size and age.
- Air humidity: in heat and drought, once a week in the evening, the plant is sprayed with cold water.
- Top dressing: in April or May - with a solution of Nitroammofoska or Kemira-lux.
- Cropping: sanitary cleaning or formative pruning, as required, is carried out in spring or autumn at an air temperature in the garden of 4 ˚C.
- Reproduction: seeds, layering, grafting, cuttings.
- Pests: do not amaze.
- Diseases: brown shute, nectriosis of bark of branches, biatorrel crayfish, alternaria, drying out of branches, fusarium and rust.
- Properties: the shoots of the plant contain the poisonous sabinol oil.
Read more about growing Cossack juniper below
Juniper Cossack is a creeping dioecious shrub up to one and a half meters high, rapidly growing and forming dense thickets. Sometimes it grows as a tree with a curved trunk and red-brown peeling bark, reaching a height of 4 m. The poisonous shoots of the plant contain essential oil. The needles of the Cossack juniper are of two types: needle-shaped, soft, pointed, erect, bluish-green, 4-6 mm long, with a clear median vein on young plants growing in the shade and tiled scale-like on adult junipers. When rubbed, the needles of this species, which persist for three years, emits a characteristic pungent odor.
The cones of the plant are small (5-7 mm), drooping, rounded-oval, brown-black in color with a bluish bloom, most often two-seeded. The seeds ripen in autumn and spring. The Cossack juniper is photophilous, tolerates drought well, is not particularly picky about the composition of the soil and is resistant to gases and smoke. This species has been in culture for a very long time.
Planting Cossack juniper
Choose a sunny area with deep groundwater for junipers. If you plant it in the shade, it will grow loose and shapeless. Keep in mind that open-root seedlings can only be planted in April or September, while container planting material can be planted almost throughout the growing season. However, the best time to plant Cossack juniper is spring.
When buying seedlings, you should carefully examine their needles, and if you find the slightest signs of disease or pest damage, it is better to refuse to buy. Do not purchase seedlings with dry or rotten roots.
Before planting, the seedlings in the container must be watered abundantly so that the roots are saturated with moisture, and the open roots must be kept in water for several hours, and then treated with a root formation stimulator. During planting, a distance of at least half a meter is maintained between the seedlings.
The depth of the planting hole depends on the size of the root system and the earthen clod of the seedling. The Cossack juniper needs a pit, the size of which will exceed the volume of the root system by 2-3 times. To fill the hole, prepare a soil mixture of peat (2 parts), turf (1 part) and sand (1 part) in advance. It is advisable to add fluff lime or dolomite flour to this mixture, although cement dust, and lime pouf, and just ground limestone are suitable for liming. The approximate consumption of lime material is 80-100 g per hole 50x50x60 cm in size.A layer of drainage material 15-20 cm thick is placed on the bottom of the pit, then a layer of soil mixture on which a juniper seedling is placed so that after planting its root collar is 5 -10 cm above ground level. The hole is filled with soil mixture, the surface around the seedling is tamped and watered abundantly. When the water is absorbed, a layer of peat, pine bark or compost with a thickness of 5-8 cm is placed in the trunk circle.
Cossack juniper care
Growing conditions on the site
Cossack juniper planting and care is carried out in accordance with the agrotechnology of conifers. Watering the juniper is required only in dry times, and even then infrequently - only 2-3 times per summer. Water consumption - from 10 to 30 liters per plant. In heat and drought, it is advisable to spray the bush once a week in the evening. The soil around young plants is shallowly loosened after watering, while removing weeds.
As a fertilizer for juniper, Nitroammofoska applied in April or May at the rate of 30-40 g per m², or a solution of 20 g of Kemira-lux in 10 liters of water, is suitable. For the winter, heat-loving plant varieties are mulched with peat, foliage or other organic matter, in the spring this mulch must be removed in order to avoid decay of the root collar.
It is better to transplant Cossack juniper at a young age, since an adult plant is difficult to take root in a new place due to the fact that the overgrown root system is severely injured during digging. The Cossack juniper is transplanted in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, but it is necessary to prepare the bush for transplanting at least six months in advance: the plant is dug around the perimeter of the crown projection, vertically cutting too long roots. They do this so that, before transplanting, the bush has time to form a compact root system in the area limited by you and the transplant is not so painful.
A pit in a new place is prepared in the same order as for the initial planting, taking into account the size of the root system of the bush. Only healthy plants are transplanted, without signs of any diseases. Tie a ribbon to one of the north-facing branches before you dig up the juniper, because you need to maintain a north-south orientation when replanting. Before transplanting, the seedling is dug in as deep as possible in order to preserve as many roots as possible. The dug out bush is transferred onto a large piece of dense polyethylene and its root system is treated with a root formation stimulator, after which the plant is dragged to the planting site, placed in a pit and the voids are filled with a prepared soil mixture. The surface around the bush is carefully trampled down, then a side is made around the perimeter of the planting pit and two buckets of water are poured under the bush. When the water is absorbed, the trunk circle is filled with humus from under the juniper or forest litter, and three strong pegs with a slope from the seedling are driven deeply along the edges of the pit at an equal distance from each other and a bush is tied to them.
The crown of the Cossack juniper is treated with fungicide solutions until the plant takes root. Make a groove around the perimeter of the trunk circle and pour a bucket of water into it twice a week: water should not get into either the needles or the trunk of the plant. As a fertilizer, Epin's solution is used on the leaves, in the heat the juniper is covered from the scorching sun with burlap, and in the evenings the crown is sprayed with water.
Diseases and pests
Juniper, like no other plant, is susceptible to rust, so do not plant it close to apples, pears, or other members of the Rose family. A sign of rust is the formation on the shoots of a plant of small, half a centimeter in size, formations of a red color, resembling tinder fungi. If you notice such growths, the shoot must be removed immediately by cutting it off below the affected area by a few centimeters. After that, you need to treat the plant with a fungicide solution. For the purpose of prophylaxis, the treatment of juniper with Topaz or another fungicide of a similar action is carried out from mid-July to mid-September every two weeks.
The juniper and the fungal disease Fusarium, or tracheomycotic wilting, which causes rotting of the root system, are affected. The mycelium penetrates into the roots of the plant and fills them, as a result of which the roots turn brown, the supply of nutrients to the crown stops, the needles turn yellow, starting from the lower shoots, turn red and fall off, and the bush itself dries up. Young plants suffer most from tracheomycosis. It is difficult to detect this disease at an early stage because it proceeds in a latent form, and when a lesion is detected, it is usually too late to take action. At the first symptoms of wilting, it is necessary to etch the soil in which the juniper grows with a solution of Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B or Gamair. As a prophylaxis and to eradicate infection, plant treatment and soil spilling with Fundazol solution are used. Plants that cannot be saved are uprooted and burned, and the soil in which they grew is spilled with a fungicide.
Brown shute develops on the Cossack juniper in winter, and in the spring you suddenly find on the branches freed from snow, yellow and brown needles, entangled with a gray cobweb mycelium, which eventually becomes black-brown and sticky. Thin branches die off, but the dirty brown needles do not fall off for a long time. It is necessary to remove the affected areas from the plant as soon as possible and treat the bush with one percent Bordeaux liquid, HOM or Abiga-Peak preparations. Most likely, treatment alone will not solve the problem: you will have to re-spray in a week or two, and maybe more than one.
Shrinking juniper branches cause several types of fungi. The disease is manifested by the drying out of the bark and the formation of brown and black fruiting bodies on it, then the Cossack juniper turns yellow and dries up. The thickening of plantings contributes to the development of the disease. It is necessary to remove diseased branches, and treat the cuts and wounds on the bark with 1% copper sulfate, followed by covering them with garden varnish, Ranet paste or oil paint on drying oil. Plant residues must be burned, and in the spring and autumn, preventive treatments of the Cossack juniper and the soil under it with a one-percent Bordeaux mixture or HOM and Abiga-Peak preparations should be carried out.
Alternaria Cossack juniper can be identified by brown needles and the formation of a black velvety coating on it. The needles fall off, the branches dry.
Biatorrel crayfish affects the Cossack juniper with mechanical damage to the branches. The fungus penetrates into the tissues of the bark, from which it turns brown, dries and cracks, then longitudinal ulcers form on the wood, and it gradually dies off. The needles on the juniper turn yellow and dry.
Branch bark nectriosis determined by the formation on the affected bark of many pads of a red-brick color with a diameter of up to 2 mm, gradually darkening and drying out. The development of the disease causes the dying off of the bark, yellowing and falling off of the needles and the drying out of the entire plant.
The methods of dealing with alternaria, biorellic cancer and nectriosis are the same as with drying out of branches.
As for pests, they do not bother the poisonous juniper.
Shearing of Cossack juniper should be carried out with the utmost care, since its shoots contain the poisonous sabinol oil. There have been no fatalities, but itching and pain in the area of scratches from trimming can bother you for a very long time.
By and large, this type of juniper needs only sanitary cleaning - the removal of dry, slightly frozen, damaged, diseased or thickening shoots and branches. Formative pruning is used to change the direction of growth of branches, to suspend their growth or to give some special shape. When and how to prune Cossack juniper? It is best to do this in spring or autumn, when the average daily temperature is 4 ºC. Provided that the annual growth of the plant does not exceed 10 cm, it is possible to shorten the shoots only by 2 cm.But it is much more efficient and safer not to cut, but to pluck the tips of the shoots: this way you increase the branching of the crown, and the bush becomes more luxuriant.
The Cossack juniper propagates by seeds and vegetatively: by layering, cuttings and grafting. The seed propagation method is rarely resorted to, since the seed requires special pre-treatment. But with those who want to know how to propagate Cossack juniper with seeds, we are ready to share information: the seeds are extracted from the cones, cleaned, immersed in a solution of sulfuric acid for 10 minutes, after which they are washed from it and subjected to natural or artificial stratification. It is best to sow seeds in boxes with soil in the fall, take them out to the garden and bury them in the snow for 4-5 months, and in the spring, after waiting for shoots, transplant them into the ground.
Cutting is a universal, but not the most successful propagation method for all types and varietal forms of juniper. Spring is considered the best time for grafting. Cuttings are harvested in cloudy weather. The upper part of semi-lignified shoots is used as cuttings, and it is very important that these shoots do not grow in a vertical direction. The stalk is separated with a sharp knife, leaving a heel on it - a part of a branch or shoot from which the stalk has grown. There should be a piece of wood on the heel. Cuttings are freed from twigs and needles to a height of 3-4 cm from the heel, they are immediately planted in a loose, permeable substrate, consisting of equal parts of coarse river sand and peat, and the substrate is watered with sodium humate or Heteroauxin to accelerate the formation of roots on the cuttings. Wooden boxes with drainage holes are used as containers. The cuttings are immersed in the ground 3 cm and at an inclination of 60 º. Keep cuttings in a greenhouse with high humidity. Before budding begins, the temperature of the content should be in the range of 16-19 ºC, and as soon as the buds open, it is increased to 23-26 ºC. Protect the cuttings from direct sunlight, water them regularly, and spray at least 5 times a day. Rooting of cuttings takes 50-90 days, but do not rush to replant them, since the first roots are very weak and easily damaged. Leave the seedlings in the greenhouse until next spring so that their root system develops and gets stronger.
Creeping Cossack juniper easily propagates by layering, and this can be done throughout the growing season. Use freshly ripe, but not yet lignified twigs for rooting. First you need to prepare the soil around the bush: dig up, adding sour peat and river sand, and moisten. The branches are cleaned of needles to a height of 10-20 cm from the base, the cleaned part is pressed to the ground and fixed in this position. From time to time, the pinned section of the branch needs to be earthed, at the same time the tip of the shoot should remain above the surface. Layers take root from 6 to 12 months. When new shoots are formed and strengthened on them, they are separated and transplanted to a new place.
Particularly valuable varieties of Cossack juniper are propagated by grafting: a varietal cutting is grafted onto an ordinary juniper seedling. The cut varietal cutting is pressed tightly to the stock and the junction is tied with a transparent elastic tape.But more often gardeners use the method of rooting cuttings or cuttings, since the grafts rarely take root in the rootstocks.
Juniper Cossack Tamariscifolia
or Tamaris - a low-growing shrub up to 1 m high and an ornamental evergreen crown up to 2 m wide, with ascending or outstretched branches covered mainly with needle-shaped bluish needles, collected in whorls of 3 blunt-pointed, slightly bent needles with a white stripe on top. In culture, this juniper, known since 1730, can live up to 30 years.
Juniper Cossack Variegata
reaches a height of 1 m with a crown diameter of 2.5 m. It grows more slowly than the main species. It has sprawling shoots with curved tops, the scale-like needles have a white-variegated color.
Juniper Cossack Rockery Jam
is a dwarf form of the species up to 50 cm in height, while the diameter of the crown of the plant reaches from 2 to 3.5 m. The bark of the Rockery Jam is reddish-gray, the shoots are dark green, the needles are blue-green, prickly, needle-like and scaly. This juniper grows slowly, lives for a long time, and is highly winter-hardy.
Juniper Cossack Nana
- male dwarf form up to 80 cm high with short shoots and tightly pressed branches. The needles of the plant are dark green, mostly scaly. The form is characterized by high heat and drought resistance.
Juniper Cossack Mas
- This form looks like a male plant, but fruits can be found on very old specimens. The height of Mas is not more than 2 m, but the diameter of the crown can reach 7-8 m. The bark of the plant is reddish-gray, the needles are prickly, mostly needle-like, bluish on the upper side, green below. In winter, the needles acquire a purple bloom. This form grows rapidly: the annual growth is 10 cm in height and 20 cm in width. The plant is distinguished by its durability and frost resistance.
Juniper Cossack Blue Danub
- a decorative form of Austrian selection, obtained in 1961: a wide and low plant with curved tops of branches. The needles are often scaly, but inside the plant they are needle-like, light gray-blue.
Juniper Cossack Glauka
- a sprawling shrub no more than 1 m high and up to 2 m wide, with scaly and needle-shaped blue-green needles, which acquire a reddish-green color in winter. The cones of this form are bluish in color.
Juniper Cossack Arcadia
- a horizontal shrub with a height of only 40 cm and a width of more than one and a half meters, with soft, long and bright light green needles. The shoots of the plant are located almost horizontally. The form is characterized by high winter hardiness.
Juniper Cossack Brodmoor
- male form, similar to Tamaris, but with stronger and more delicate shoots with small gray-blue needles. The crown is flat, up to 3.5 m wide, but with a vaulted middle.
Juniper Cossack Buffalo
- also a form similar to Tamariscifolia, but wider and lower, with light green needles. Buffalo has exceptional winter hardiness.
Juniper Cossack Kupressifolia
- the female form, which is a low-growing creeping shrub up to half a meter high with a wide crown, open shoots, bluish-green needles, often scaly, pressed, but needles can also be found inside the lower part of the crown. This winter-hardy plant bears fruit abundantly. It has been known in culture since 1789.
Juniper Cossack Erekta
reaches a height of 2 m. Its obliquely ascending branches form a pyramidal crown. Erekta is heat-resistant and tolerates dry air well. This form was bred in Holland in 1891.
Juniper Cossack Fastigiata
- a plant with a narrow-columnar crown 5-6, and sometimes 8 m high. Her needles are green, mostly scale-like.
Juniper Cossack Femina
- female form up to 1.5 m in height with a crown diameter of 4-5 m, with reddish-gray bark and dark green shoots. The needles are dense, dark green, mostly scaly, poisonous, with an unpleasant odor. Femina grows for a long time, but it is frost-resistant and durable.
Juniper Cossack in landscape design
Due to its high decorativeness, drought resistance and frost resistance, this type of juniper is widely used in the preparation of landscape compositions, in garden and park plantings, for decorating slopes and rocky hills. The Cossack juniper looks great in solo and group plantings on lawns or forest edges. It is grown both as a ground cover plant and as a tapeworm against the background of more tall trees.
The Cossack juniper fits perfectly into the Scandinavian style, deliberately rude and implying open rocky spaces, laconic restraint and sharp lines. Juniper varieties with yellow-green needles are in harmony with mosses, lichens, dwarf shrubs of other species and heathers.
Tall varieties of Cossack juniper with a crown of regular shape and restrained bluish-silver or greenish-gray color are used when decorating landscape compositions in a prim English style.
The juniper will also find its place in the Japanese garden: its varieties of a strict form will emphasize the bright colors and the specifics of the oriental garden. They are planted near rocky islets next to heathers of yellow, red, orange, blue or white color.
For all its decorativeness, the garden, where only junipers grow, is somewhat monotonous, but in combination with deciduous shrubs, trees and perennial flowers, it will be beautiful. A lawn or a picturesque heap of stones can serve as a suitable background for the Cossack juniper, and the heathers and barberries growing nearby will become a bright background for its noble beauty. On the banks of a reservoir or stream, the attractiveness of a juniper is emphasized by orange or yellow spireas. If you want to arrange a lawn next to the building, then the best neighbors for the Cossack juniper can be other conifers - undersized spruce, weeping larch or mountain pine.
Large-leaved perennial trees and large garden flowers are not combined with juniper.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the Cypress family
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Information about Garden Plants
- Information on Perennial Plants
- Shrub Information
Sections: Garden plants Perennials Shrubs Ornamental deciduous Plants on M Cypress Conifers Junipers
Juniper Cossack Variegata (Variegata)
Juniper Cossack Variegata is a low-growing shrub with a very powerful root system. This is one of the most unpretentious plants in the entire family. The ability to withstand severe winters and almost complete independence from the composition and fertility of the soil make the Cossack juniper Variegata one of the most popular types of the lower level. In landscape design, it is used to create dense cover or to strengthen steep slopes.
- Description of the Cossack juniper Variegata
- Frost resistance, drought resistance
- Size and growth rate
- Application in landscape design
- Reproduction methods
- Planting and caring for the Cossack juniper Variegata
- Follow-up care
- Watering and feeding schedule
- Pruning rules
- Mulching, soil loosening
- Preparing for winter
- Pests and diseases
- Reviews of the Cossack juniper Variegata
Description of the Cossack juniper
Juniper Cossack (Latin Juniperus sabina) is a type of creeping coniferous shrubs or small trees of the Cypress family of the Juniper genus, reaching a height of 1 to 3 m. Sometimes this species is called Don juniper.
The branches of these plants are dark green, dense, lying firmly on the ground and quickly taking root. The shrub actively grows in width, forming dense thickets. The trunks of small trees (up to 4 m in height) are certainly curved. Cossack juniper shoots are poisonous and contain essential oil.
The needles of Juniperus sabina are of two types: at a young age, erect, needle-shaped, pointed at the ends, bluish-green in color with a clearly marked median vein, with age, the needles become scale-like. The needles are located either opposite in 4 rows, or alternate with whorls. When rubbed, needles and shoots emit a sharp, characteristic odor. The bark of trees of this species is red-brown, flaking.
The Cossack juniper, the photo of which is presented above, is a dioecious plant: the male flower looks like an oval earring with numerous stamens: the female flowers are collected in an inflorescence. Cones are small, spherical, no more than 7 mm in diameter, brown-black with a bluish bloom, drooping. The seeds ripen twice a season - in the fall and spring of the next year. Each cone contains no more than 4 seeds.
In nature, these plants form mixed forests, often live on sand dunes or rocky mountain slopes, the distribution area reaches 1000-2300 m above sea level. They have been known in culture since 1584; cultivars (about 20 varieties) are now widely used.
Juniper Tamariscifolia in garden design
The Tamariscifolia juniper is often called horizontal, since it does not grow up, but in breadth, forming a pillow of sharp needles. Such plants are mainly planted in gardens, flower beds, lawns, using as a decorative element. With the help of a juniper, you can zone a land plot.
This variety is great for creating a hedge or curb. As practice shows, the Cossack Juniper Tamaristsifolia is perfectly combined with other types of plants. Many gardeners consider the main advantage to be beautiful needles, which can be of different shapes and shades. This variety is able to please with its appearance for many years only if it provides quality care.
Diseases and pests
Rust is a fungal disease. Spindle-shaped thickenings appear on shoots, needles, cones, skeletal branches, swelling and sagging appear on the trunk in the root zone, the bark dries up, falls off, and shallow wounds are exposed. The needles will turn yellow, begin to crumble, the affected branches will dry out. Urgent measures must be taken to save the plant. Remove the affected parts and dispose of them, treat with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, lubricate the cut sites with Ranet paste or garden varnish.
Schütte, necritis, bark alternaria, biotorella cancer are other possible diseases of the juniper. The method of treatment is similar.
Possible pests of juniper are miner moths, aphids, spider mites, scale insects. It is necessary to carry out an insecticide treatment with repetition after a couple of weeks.
Juniper Virginia "Blue Arrow"
Juniper virginiana "Blue Arrow" (Juniperus virginiana Blue Arrow) is a tree with a narrow columnar crown, reminiscent of an arrow directed upwards. Branches are rigid, growing vertically, tightly pressed to the trunk. At the age of 10, the trees of the Blue Arrow variety reach 2-2.5 m in height with a crown diameter of 0.5-0.7 m. The annual growth is about 15 cm. The needles of this cultivar are scaly, soft, and bright blue in color.
A characteristic feature of the Blue Arrow variety is the arrangement of branches from the very base. Unlike other forms, Blue Arrow is more demanding to care for, it needs additional conditions - these trees should be planted exclusively in sunny, sheltered from the wind areas. The variety is quite drought-resistant, but during dry periods it requires careful watering. After heavy snowfalls, the branches of the plants should be thoroughly shaken off to avoid breakage.
The Blue Arrow variety is used both in single plantings as a tapeworm and for creating large-scale landscape compositions. Suitable as a plant for creating hedges or landscaping front porches.
Rocky juniper care
It is quite easy to care for the rocky juniper, as it is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and resistance to urban conditions. But it should be borne in mind that in the first years after planting, the plant will grow extremely slowly.
Mature bushes need to be watered only during prolonged drought. However, the juniper can be watered no more than three times per season. Newly planted seedlings need to be watered more frequently. It is also recommended to spray the seedlings with lukewarm water, and this should be done in the evening.
It is impossible to feed this plant with organic matter. For young bushes, just one top dressing is enough, which is arranged in April or May, for this they use Kemiru-wagon (for 1 bucket of water 20 grams) or Nitroammofosku (for 1 square meter from 30 to 40 grams). Adult bushes do not need to be fed.
Caring for a rocky juniper in winter directly depends on the variety. If the bush has a columnar crown, then after a heavy snowfall, it is imperative to remove the snow from it by shaking it off, otherwise the branches may not withstand such weight and break. In order to prevent injury to the branches, they must be pulled together with twine before heavy snowfall so that they are pressed against the trunk.
If you transplant a juniper without following the rules, then this can destroy it. The reason for the death of the plant in this case lies in severe damage to the root system. Adult large bushes are the hardest to tolerate transplanting. What are the rules that allow you to transplant a plant without severe damage? The most important rule is to preserve the integrity of a clod of earth when digging up a bush, because it is in it that the plant's root system is located.
It is recommended to transplant in March – April or June – July, because it is at this time that the plant has the maximum root-forming ability. But still, in the summer, it is better to refrain from transplanting, since in the heat the needles evaporate a large amount of liquid, which leads to a significant weakening of the juniper, as well as to a slowdown in its adaptation. In this regard, it is best to transplant in the spring, but if time is running out, then you can transfer the bush to a new place in the fall during the fall of leaves.
Dig a pit for a start, and do not forget to take into account the size of the earthen lump of the bush. Then a good drainage layer must be made at its bottom. Prepare the required amount of soil mixture with which you will fill the pit. When everything is ready, you can start removing the bush from the ground. To do this, you need to dig it in, not forgetting to step back from the trunk at least 50 centimeters. The juniper extracted with a lump of earth must be laid on a strong cloth or film, then it is carefully moved to a new planting site. You need to plant a dug bush in the same way as a seedling during the initial planting. The surface of the trunk circle must be covered with a layer of mulch, and do not forget that the transplanted plant needs protection from direct sunlight.
Diseases and pests
Very often, such a plant becomes infected with rust, which is a fungal disease. In an infected specimen, growths of a deep orange color appear on the branches, they contain oil with a pigment, which is very similar in composition to carotene. The infected bush loses its spectacular appearance, its branches begin to dry out. A few years later, such a bush dies. If you notice the first signs of rust, then in the very near future, cut off and destroy all affected parts of the plant, and then treat the juniper with a fungicide. Experts advise in this case to use such effective drugs as: Bayleton, Skor, Rogor, Vectra and Tilt.
Also, quite often the juniper bush affects Fusarium wilting (tracheomycosis).Its development is very often associated with the fact that the plant is grown in overly dense soil with high humidity. This disease affects the root system of the plant, which stops transferring nutrients to the aerial parts of the plant. The fact is that the mycelium of the fungus grows into the vascular system of the juniper. In the affected bush, the apical shoots are the first to dry out, their needles change their color to pale red. After some time, the disease affects the entire bush. It is almost impossible to detect the development of fusarium wilting at an early stage, however, if you notice that the apical shoots of the bush have become yellow or red, then immediately cut off the infected branches and treat the plant and the soil surface under it with a fungicide. For a greater effect, experienced gardeners recommend changing the topsoil to fresh soil mixture, which must be soaked in a fungicide solution. In order to prevent the purchased material for planting, it is imperative to subject it to treatment with Quadris, Fitosporin-M or Maxim, not forgetting about the earthen lump. If the seedling is not very large, then its root system must be immersed in Maxim's solution for 2 or 3 hours.
Also, the juniper can lose its spectacular appearance or even die from a disease called the drying out of the branches. It is possible to understand that the bush is infected in springtime, its needles turn yellow and begin to die off, at first it affects not very large areas, but over time the disease spreads to the entire juniper or to most of it. As the disease progresses, small fruiting bodies of fungi form on the surface of the bark and needles. A diseased bush should be started to be treated immediately, as the first signs of drying out of the branches were noticed. To do this, cut off all branches with yellow needles, and the plant itself must be treated with a fungicide solution. In the event that the juniper is very severely affected by the disease, then it will have to be dug up and destroyed. For prevention purposes, it is necessary to spray the bush 2 times per season, namely: in the second half of April and in the last days of October, for this they use Tilt, Ridomil Gold MC or Skor.
Another rocky juniper is able to get infected with brown shute (the name is derived from the German word, which translates as "crumble"). In the affected specimen, the needles turn yellow and fall off. Most often, the disease makes itself felt in the first summer weeks. If you look at the infected needles in the last days of August, then on its surface you can see the fruit bodies of mushrooms of an ellipsoid shape and black color. If the juniper is improperly looked after or grown in the shade, as well as in a damp place, in these cases the disease will develop rapidly. Branches with yellowed needles must be cut off, and also remove all dead needles that have fallen to the site, then process the copy with Strobi, Skor, Quadris or Ridomil Gold MC. For the purpose of prevention, the bushes should be treated with these drugs in mid-April and in the autumn before frosts begin.
Pests such as miner moths, scale insects, aphids, as well as spider mites can harm this plant. To get rid of aphids, the bush must be sprayed with Fitoverm solution, which is prepared according to the instructions. If a mole has settled on the plant, then it must be treated with a Decis solution (for 1 bucket of water 2.5 grams), and you can get rid of the scabbard with a solution of Karbofos (for 1 bucket of water 70 grams of substance), which needs to be processed both the bush itself and the surface of the ground below it. Spider mites are afraid of acaricidal agents, for example: Karbofos, Aktellik, Aktara and others that have a similar effect.
Formative pruning of rocky juniper is not needed, because its crown has a very spectacular shape from nature. However, he needs sanitary pruning. How to prune a bush correctly? Pruning is carried out in early spring before sap flow begins, and a rainy day is chosen for this. All dried, injured, damaged by disease or pests, stems and branches, as well as those that do not grow properly, should be removed. If you want to align the contours of the crown, then remember that you can shorten branches and stems by no more than 20 mm, since the growth of this plant is only 10 centimeters per year.