Pachistachis

Pachistachis

The Pachystachys plant is an evergreen perennial shrub from the Acanthus family. This genus includes about 12 species that live in the subtropics and tropics. In its natural environment, the plant can be found in India and America.

The name pachistachis means "thick ear" and is associated with the unusual spike-like shape of its inflorescences. Among the popular names for the flower are also "golden candle" and even "golden shrimp". In home floriculture, pachistachis began to be used in the 19th century, but to this day this plant is not yet very common. At the same time, despite its exotic appearance, pachistachis does not differ in a capricious disposition, and, subject to the conditions for care, it will regularly delight with its green foliage and unusual beautiful inflorescences.

Description of pachistachis

In nature, the size of pachistachis is quite impressive: about 1-2 m, depending on the species. Due to its more compact size, yellow pachystachis is most often grown at home. It is an evergreen dwarf shrub with a height of 20 cm to 1 m. The lower part of its green shoots gradually grows stiff. The oval foliage has a pointed tip and a slightly wrinkled surface. The color of the leaves is deep green, the length reaches 15 cm, and the width is about 5 cm. The bright golden spikelets of pachystachis are not flowers, but only bracts. They retain their elegant appearance throughout the entire flowering period. White flowers up to 5 cm long peep out of them, similar to small tropical birds. Unlike bracts, they do not last long.

Pachistachis. Indoor exotic and fastidious

Brief rules for growing pachistachis

The table shows brief rules for caring for pachistachis at home.

Lighting levelThe flower needs bright, but not direct light.
Content temperatureIn the warm season - indoor, about 23-25 ​​degrees, but during the dormant period, the plant should be kept cool - in a room where it keeps no more than 16-18 degrees, but not less than 10 degrees.
Watering modeDuring the period of development, abundant and frequent hydration is necessary. During the rest period in the coolness, it is more rare and scarce.
Air humidityHigh humidity is required, the flower pot is placed on a tray filled with wet pebbles.
The soilThe optimum soil is soil that includes turf, leafy soil, humus, peat and coarse sand.
Top dressingOnce every couple of weeks during the growing season, in winter - once every 1.5 months, using liquid mineral formulations for flowering plants.
TransferTransplants are carried out at the very end of winter. The formed plants are transplanted into a new container every 3 years, young ones - annually.
PruningPruning should be regular, carried out in the fall, before the dormant period begins.
BloomLong-term flowering, lasts from spring to mid-autumn.
Dormant periodThe dormant period usually begins in the second half of October and lasts until March.
ReproductionCuttings, seeds.
PestsThrips, scale insects, mealybug, whitefly, spider mite.
DiseasesDiseases can be caused by mistakes in care: loss of decorativeness, problems with the formation of buds, powdery mildew, rot.

Pachystachis care at home

Lighting

Pachistachis is photophilous; at home, the flower requires a lot of bright, but always diffused light. The plant is ideal for windows of the east or west direction, but on the south it will have to be slightly shaded at noon. Otherwise, burns may remain on the foliage or its color will become more faded. At the same time, it is important to ensure that there is no blowing from the windows, otherwise you will have to look for a warmer corner for the flower.

Lighting during the rest period should also remain abundant - the pot should not be rearranged in the shade.

Temperature

In the natural environment, pachistachis have ways to withstand cold snaps up to 10 degrees, but the bushes react to a long stay in the cool by dropping their foliage. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to grow pachistachis at home at a temperature of 16-18 degrees. In summer, the bushes grow well at normal room temperature, about 23-25 ​​degrees. During this period, you can transfer plantings to the open air: to the garden, to the balcony or to the veranda. You just need to choose a place for pachistakhis, protected from drafts, strong winds or rain.

Watering mode

The entire period of growth of pachistachis must be watered very abundantly. The flower needs a lot of moisture. The soil should be moistened about 1-2 times a week, depending on the growing conditions. The plant will let you know about the need for watering with drooping foliage, but you should not overdry the soil too much: it is enough to wait for its top layer to dry. For irrigation, use slightly warm filtered, thawed or settled water for more than a day. Air humidity also plays an important role. It is desirable that pachistachis grow in conditions of high humidity, especially this should be monitored in winter, when the air is significantly dried out by the heat from the batteries.

In the middle of autumn, after the end of flowering, the pachystachis begins a dormant period. At this time, the growth and rate of development of the bush slows down. This leads to the fact that the flower begins to consume significantly less moisture. After the onset of the dormant period, the volume of irrigation is reduced. It is advisable that the bush spend the rest time in a cooler room, therefore waterlogging in such conditions can lead to the development of rot. The amount of watering is almost not changed only if the flower hibernates in a warm place.

The soil

The best soil for growing pachystachis is turf, leafy soil, humus, peat and coarse sand. Universal mixtures for flowering species are also suitable. A couple of weeks before planting, the substrate must be disinfected by calcining it or treating it with a bright solution of potassium permanganate. Drainage up to 2 cm thick must be laid under the soil layer.

Top dressing

For healthy growth, pachystachis requires regular feeding. In the warm season, they can be carried out twice a month, using mineral compositions for flowering species. They are diluted in water, and then introduced into the already moistened soil. If the bush is warm in winter, they continue to feed it, but they do it much less often - about once every 1-1.5 months.

For feeding pachistachis, organic compounds can also be used, for example, solutions of chicken manure or mullein.

Transfer

177. Magical Pachistakis - "golden shrimp". Transplant Cultivation and care at home.

Young pachistachis are transplanted into a new pot in spring, but certainly before the bush begins to bloom. Older specimens are transferred less often - once every 3-4 years.

For young pachistachis, not very large containers with a volume of up to 1.5 liters are suitable. Their height should be comparable to the diameter. In the future, the bush is transplanted into a pot 1.5 cm superior to the previous one. For adult bushes, containers with a volume of up to 2.5 liters are used. Pots that are too bulky can slow down flower formation.

Before the spring transplant, the bush must be cut off. Pachistachis is moved to a new container along with a soil clod. The voids are filled with fresh soil and slightly compacted. After transplanting, the bush is watered, and then kept in a more shaded place for several days.

Pruning

The natural size of the pachistachis cannot be called miniature, but the free growth of the bush at home leads to a loss of decorativeness. Because of this, the pachistachis will need regular pruning. Without it, the lower part of the shoots will begin to bare, the internodes will elongate, and some of the leaves will fall off.

To form a beautiful compact crown, the bush must be pinched or pruned starting from the first year of life. After the end of the rest period, in the spring, the branches must be shortened to a length of 10-15 cm. The tops of the shoots can be used as cuttings. After pruning, all shoots are pinched over the 2nd pair of leaf plates. In the future, in the spring, it will be enough to simply shorten the tops of the shoots: flowers will form only on fresh shoots.

If the plant was kept in unsuitable conditions and lost its appearance during the warm season, pruning can be done not at the beginning of the growth stage, but in the fall, before the flower leaves for rest. In addition, in the fall, all drying inflorescences should also be removed, capturing not only the spikelet itself, but also a couple of leaves. This will contribute to the laying of future buds.

Bloom

Pachystachis has a long flowering period. It usually coincides with the growing season and lasts from February to October. In some cases, the bush can bloom in winter, but for this you have to use additional lighting.

Pachystachis inflorescences-spikelets resemble flowers of another plant - aphelandra, but have a more elongated shape. The main attention is attracted by bright yellow bracts, which stay on the bushes for several weeks. Real flowers of light color appear from "spikelets", and wither after 3-4 days.

The flowering of pachistachis is significantly influenced by the degree of illumination of the room. With a lack of light, the bush may not bloom. Another prerequisite for lush flowering is correct pruning. Old, elongated and bare underneath shoots practically do not form buds. Young shoots bloom most profusely, so the bushes need regular rejuvenation.

Pachystachis begin to bloom even at a young age, sometimes buds begin to appear in recently rooted cuttings. Fading inflorescences should be removed, this will help prolong the period of their formation.

Reproduction of pachistachis

At home, cuttings are most often used to propagate pachistachis. To do this, use the remaining parts of the shoots after trimming. Each segment must have at least a couple of internodes and leaves. The cuttings are placed in water and kept at a temperature of about 22 degrees. To speed up the process of rooting, you can add a stimulant to the water, but sometimes the cuttings do not take root even after it has been added. The main condition is keeping warm, therefore the cutting should be kept under an airtight hood. Rooting in the ground is considered a more reliable method.

During this time, the foliage can fly around, so that this does not happen, the plates are cut by about half. Sometimes the leaves fly off even after shortening, but instead of them, after transplantation, fresh leaf blades should appear.

The soil for rooting cuttings does not differ from the soil for an adult pachistachis. It should be light and nutritious. The place of the lower cut is treated with a growth stimulant and the cutting is planted in the substrate to a depth of 1-6 cm. From above it must be covered with a bag or a transparent jar. Seedlings should be kept in the light, watered periodically and ventilated regularly. For convenience, you can plant pachistachis in cut bottles. In this case, the upper part of the container will serve as a greenhouse, and it will be possible to ventilate it just by removing the lid. In the lower part, you must first make several drainage holes to drain excess moisture, and also lay a layer of expanded clay or foam. Fallen leaves from the ground should be removed to avoid rotting.

The roots of seedlings are formed for about a month. The percentage of rooting of such cuttings is very high; it is not even affected by the falling of the leaves. A couple of weeks after the appearance of fresh shoots, you can begin to wean the seedlings from greenhouse conditions, removing the cap and gradually increasing the time they stay in the air.

After the seedlings finally take root in a temporary container, they are transplanted into pots to a permanent place. The container for pachistachis should be low, but wide. 3-4 bushes are planted in each: together they will look denser. To stimulate branching, the tops of the branches should be pinched periodically.

Diseases and pests of pachistachis

Diseases

Pachystachis is susceptible to disease only if the plant is improperly looked after or kept in inappropriate conditions. Due to non-compliance with the basic requirements, the flower may lose its visual appeal, stretch out or stop blooming.

Rot is considered the most dangerous disease of pachistachis. In a neglected case, the plant can be lost. If you grow bushes in too heavy soil, water can stagnate in it, leading to rotting of the root system. The affected bush is removed from the pot and carefully examined. With small lesions, diseased areas are cut out, and healthy roots are kept in a fungicide solution. After that, the bush is moved to fresh, lighter soil.

It is worth remembering that even after such a transplant, not all plants survive. For some time after the procedure, pachistachis should be watered less frequently. A fungicidal solution can be used instead of water. Excess liquid after watering must be drained. If the bush is placed on a pallet with damp pebbles, the bottom of the pot should not come into contact with water.

Sometimes the bushes can be affected by powdery mildew. A light bloom appears on the foliage of the plant, and then the plates begin to fall off. Small lesions can be cured with garlic infusion (30 g of garlic per 1 liter of water, infused in the dark for a day). The bush is sprayed three times with weekly breaks. In more advanced cases, Topaz is used. Proper care is considered the best prevention of such a disease: healthy pachistachis are not affected by it.

Possible difficulties of growing

Other possible problems with growing pachistachis include:

  • Curling foliage and drying out its tips. A symptom of excessively dry air in the room. Wrapping the edges of the leaf plates can also indicate a lack of moisture in the soil.
  • Mass flying around the leaves. Associated with a draft or overdrying of the soil.
  • Pulling shoots, lack of flowering, shrinking foliage. The most common reason is the lack of lighting, the pot must be moved to a brighter place. Sometimes the ugly crown shape is the result of improper pruning.
  • Dull foliage color - lack of nutrients, lack or excess of light.
  • Rotting and falling off of inflorescences - moisture ingress or weak air movement.
  • Exposure of the lower part of the stems. The plant should be rejuvenated with a little pruning.
  • The bush hardly grows. The pachistachis is in too tight a container and needs to be transplanted.

Pests

Most often, pachystachis is harmed by sucking insects - mealybugs and spider mites, less often - scale insects.

Worms and scale insects leave small yellow dots on the foliage, and light lumps resembling cotton wool in the sinuses. Such insects are collected with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.

Almost invisible to the eye, ticks leave behind a thin cobweb and small dots on the leaves. The affected bush must be washed with soapy water. The ground is preliminarily covered with a film so that the soap does not get into the pot. After drying, the bush is sprayed with Aktellik or Fitoverm. Treatment is recommended with good ventilation.

Whiteflies and thrips appear less often on pachystachis bushes, but they can be dealt with by the same means.

Types and varieties of pachistakhis with photos and names

Usually in apartments yellow pachystachis, described above, is found, but other types of pachistachis can be used for home cultivation. Their inflorescences are of a different color.

Pachystachis red (Pachystachys coccinea)

The large size of this species makes it suitable only for greenhouses. The height of Pachystachys coccinea can be about 2 m. Its foliage is colored bright green and reaches 40 cm in length. On the surface of the leaf blades, burgundy streaks are present. The bracts of this species are green in color and are lost against the background of rich red graceful flowers with a tubular base.Outwardly, such inflorescences resemble lush feathers, which in former times were attached to hats, which is why such a pachistachis is also called the "cardinal's guard".

Pachystachis spikelet (Pachystachys spicata)

Another fairly large species, usually grown in greenhouses or botanical gardens. Pachystachys spicata has foliage up to 25 cm in size. The bract of such a plant resembles a green cone, on which bright red flowers are located. Some researchers consider this species to be a subspecies of red pachystachis.

Signs and superstitions

Although pachistachis are not grown in homes as often as more common indoor flowers, a number of folk signs are associated with these spectacular plants.

Bushes with spikelet flowers are credited with the ability to harmonize the surrounding atmosphere, to stimulate indecisive people to act, and, on the contrary, to calm down those who are overly active. Yellow spikelets also contribute to the establishment of marital relations. It is believed that in the house where such a flower grows, there will be less quarrels.

By the appearance of the bush, you can "predict" the future. If the flower is looked after correctly, but its foliage suddenly began to fall off, this promises future troubles. If the plant takes on an even more elegant and bright appearance, joyful events should be expected. Pachistakhis as a gift means a sincere wish for happiness in love.


Calceolaria (Calceolaria) belongs to the Norichnikov family (Scrophulariaceae). Calceolaria, "little shoe", has strange flowers, the shape of which is associated with funny shoes. The fruit is a capsule. These plants with flowers that look like tiny shoes and bloated pouches are native to Central and South America. There are more than 300 species in the genus. Some botanists specializing in taxonomy distinguish the genus into a separate family Calceolaria (Calceolariaceae).

Several types of calceolaria have become popular potting crops. The most famous of these is the hybrid calceolaria, a colorful houseplant that goes on sale in many stores in winter and early spring. Purple calceolaria is also good. It is better to decorate the balconies with wrinkled calceolaria.

Hybrid calceolaria (Calceolaria herbeohybrida) Is one of the brightest seasonal indoor plants. Its height is up to 50 cm. The leaves of this herbaceous plant are wrinkled, light green, with rounded edges. They have a weak soft pubescence. The flowers are double-lipped, original in shape, of various colors. They are monochromatic (yellow, orange, red, cherry, purple) or with various specks, stripes, marble patterns, etc. Calceolaria are easily recognizable by their characteristic two-lipped flowers of an unusual shape. The lower lip (globular, similar to a swollen sac) is much larger than the upper lip. "Lanterns" of flowers are easily wrinkled. Flowering lasts about 4 to 6 weeks. Hybrid calceolaria bloom in February - June. Each bush has a huge number of flowers and buds. More often - 18 - 25 pieces. A record number - 55 "shoes" on one plant!

Another type, which is also common in culture, is calceolaria purpurea (Calceolaria purpurea). A perennial herb about 50 cm in height has basal leaves with jagged edges. The flowers are smaller than those of the hybrid calceolaria. They have a purple or reddish-violet hue. The swollen lower lip of the flower is oblong, with grooves.

Calceolaria wrinkled (Calceolaria rugosa) in the summer kept in the fresh air. Pots with this perennial plant with a height of 25 - 50 cm are best placed on the balcony or placed near the house. Calceolaria has a rosette of medium-sized leaves and “shoes” flowers up to 2 cm in diameter. The place should be sunny. In winter, wrinkled calceolaria is kept in a cool room or in a bright basement. Herbaceous bushes with oval wrinkled leaves bloom from May to autumn frosts. There are many varieties of wrinkled calceolaria with yellow, orange and red shoes. Interesting "shoes" of variegated colors. This type of calceolaria was popular in pre-revolutionary Russia. It was called a beautiful grateful plant and was often planted in balcony boxes.


Reproduction of pachistachis

Pachistachis propagates well by cuttings. Cuttings are taken in the spring, when pruning, this is the optimal time for cuttings, although it can be carried out throughout the year. Cut into pieces with 2 internodes about 10 cm long. Large leaf blades are cut in half. Dust with Kornevin and root in a greenhouse at a temperature of + 20 ... + 22 ℃ and high humidity. Cuttings that have given roots (usually it takes 2-3 weeks for rooting) are planted in individual containers with a diameter of 12 cm for growing, and then in wider pots. Do not forget to limit the volume of the soil in order to get good flowering later.


Pachistachis

• perennial herbaceous plants and shrubs from tropical America
• one species is widespread in the culture - Pachystachis yellow, in greenhouses there is bright red pachistachis

Genus Pachistachis (Pachystachys) unites 12 species of evergreen perennials and shrubs and belongs to the Acanthus family (Acanthaceae). The homeland of these plants are the rainforests of Central and South America, the Caribbean islands.

The genus got its name for the shape of the inflorescences, from the Greek pachys (thick) and stachys (ear of corn, ear).

The genus is very close to another genus of the acanthus family - Justice, or Jacobinia (Justicia).

These are evergreen herbaceous perennials, shrubs or dwarf shrubs. Stems are cylindrical or in the upper part square in cross section, young ones are pubescent, but quickly become naked. The leaves are petiolate, elliptical or broadly lanceolate to oblong-ovate, pointed at the apex, but the tip itself is usually obtuse, narrowed towards the base, whole or wavy along the edge, glabrous, with rough veins. Inflorescences are dense, single apical ears. Flowers in a spike sit in whorls of 3-4, equipped with bracts. Calyx 5-lobed, lobes relatively short corolla open, rounded, curved, double-lipped upper lip narrow, 2-lobed at the end, lower lip 3-lobed, lobes approximately the same, oblong or ovoid, bright red (with age they become orange-red ), pink or occasionally white 2 stamens attached to the base of the tube, about the same length as the corolla. The fruit is a capsule with 4 reticulated seeds.

As ornamental plants in regions with a suitable climate, where the temperature does not drop below +10 ° C, 3 species are grown: pachistachis bright red (Pachystachys coccinea), pachystachis yellow (Pachystachys lutea) and spike-shaped pachystachis (Pachystachys spicata). In indoor and greenhouse culture, yellow pachystachis is most often found, rarely more powerful bright red pachystachis. For indoor culture, it is inconvenient, more suitable for greenhouses.

Pachystachis yellow (Pachystachys lutea) comes from Peru. It is commonly referred to as Plant on a Stick, Golden Candle, or Shrimp Plant.

This tropical evergreen shrub or subshrub reaches a height of 1–2 m in its natural habitat. When grown in containers, usually no more than 20-45 cm in height. Leaves - from lanceolate to elliptical, up to 15 cm long. Narrow, tubular, double-lipped white flowers protrude from spectacular, overlapping golden-yellow bracts, arranged in a crosswise whorl of 4, which provide structure and color to the inflorescence. Inflorescences with yellow bracts to some extent resemble shrimp at the beginning of development, hence the common name.

Pachystachis bright red (Pachystachys coccinea) grows in French Guiana, Brazil and Peru. The inflorescence of the plant is formed by red flowers with green bracts. For coloring in everyday life it is called the Cardinals guard.

This is an evergreen shrub 1-2 m tall (grows much lower in culture). Young shoots are pubescent, soon become naked, narrowed and easily break just above the nodes. The bark is thin and usually striped. Leaves on petioles 2-5 cm long, elliptical or oblong-obovate, 18-25 cm long and 6-9 cm wide, often sharply pointed at the top, narrowed towards the petiole to a sharp or obtuse base, whole or wavy along the edge, dark green. Inflorescence 9-22 cm long, with noticeable green bracts and red flowers green bracts, ovate to lanceolate, upper - trifoliate or with 4 lobes, narrower, sharp, sharply narrowed towards the base, with short wings, usually glandular and short pubescent at the edges and central veins. Flowers are sessile, with a bell-shaped calyx 5.5-6 mm long, the corolla is two-lipped, bright red, 5-7 cm long, rather weakly pubescent, 4 mm wide at the base, narrowed to 3 mm above the ovary, and 7-10 mm wide in In the throat, the upper lip is straight, 20-25 mm long, the lower lip is oblong, 17-20 mm long and 4-5 mm wide, obtuse.

Pachystachis bloom in their natural habitat all year round. Indoor conditions - from April to August. Inflorescences bloom from bottom to top. The life of the flowers is only a few days, but the inflorescences retain their decorative effect for several more weeks thanks to the completely decorative bracts.


Diseases and pests

The most common pests are spider mite or a shield.

When found, it is important to process the plant insecticides or apply spraying garlic solution... After processing the plant, you need to wash it under a warm shower.

Pachystachis is a rare and unique plant that requires appropriate attention, but care is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. With a great desire and diligence, you can grow this bright exotic plant in your apartment, which will delight you with lush flowering for many months.


Please tell me who has pachistachis: there are small transparent droplets on the inside of the leaf. This is normal, or you need to look for parasites on the plant. I looked at the leaves with a magnifying glass, no insects were visible. The droplets are very small, with the naked eye you can simply see the shine, but with a magnifying glass you can already see the droplets.

When a pest appears scabbards on the leaves of pachistachis, their discharge is found in the form of droplets, similar to shiny syrup. An adult scale insect sitting on leaves does not look like a pest: it is a stationary flat oval scutellum of grayish-white or yellow-brown color, 2-4 mm in size. Discovered shields of pests stuck to the leaves are removed with a cotton swab dipped in vodka. Pachystachis leaves are wiped with a cotton swab dipped in vodka. Of the chemical remedies, the plant is treated with actellik (2 ml per liter of water), carrying out no more than three treatments per season at weekly intervals.

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