Correct cultivation on the window of a balcony cucumber f1

Correct cultivation on the window of a balcony cucumber f1

For the manifestation of gardening skills, it is not at all necessary to go out of town to the country. Greening the balcony, and at the same time arranging the cultivation of delicious greens, can be right on the window. Balcony cucumber, a storehouse of vitamins, at any time at hand. The technology is simple, but it has some features, which will be discussed in this article.

Are cucumber, balcony and window opening compatible

For a long time, enterprising owners have been using a balcony and a window for a small garden. Dill, parsley and other herbs come to the table directly from the improvised garden bed. And making a salad from freshly harvested cucumbers is not a problem at all, it is worth making a little effort and adhering to the recommendations of experts. Seed selection is key to success... You shouldn't choose a super high yielding variety. It is better to give preference to those types that meet the following requirements:

  • belonging to the family of pumpkin crops;
  • warmth;
  • annual plant;
  • moisture resistance (likes abundant watering and high humidity).

When growing cucumbers on the balcony, you need to free up as much space as possible to create good lighting. Neighborhood with other ornamental crops is better to exclude.

Description and characteristics of the urban variety Balkonny f1

The Balcony hybrid was obtained in 2007 by breeders of the Manul agricultural firm. The purpose of breeding the variety was to obtain a plant adapted to growing at home. The results achieved exceeded expectations - cucumbers grow well both indoors and outdoors... And the regions recommended for use are not limited to the middle lane; the plant develops well in the northern regions.
The f1 balcony cucumber is unpretentious. The dimensions of the lash are compact, the branching is medium, the internodes are shortened. The variety is self-pollinated. Up to 8 ovaries are formed in one sinus. The flowering type is predominantly female. Fruits are oval-cylindrical, deep green in color. Mature green plants reach a length of 6-8 cm with a weight of 75-90 grams. Appearance features are considered to be short white stripes and slight ribbing. Taste meets the standards, the taste is slightly sweet without a hint of bitterness.

The period of fruit ripening is 40-42 days from the moment of germination. During the season, up to 9-11 kg of cucumbers are removed from 3-4 bushes.

Basic conditions for growing

In order not to waste the efforts made, it is recommended to follow the simple rules for growing cucumbers on the balcony.

  • Wooden boxes or metal pots are more often used as containers for soil. Dark colored plastic containers are a good alternative.
  • Before sowing, the seeds are sorted, soaked (they are kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes) and warmed up (kept in the sun or a battery for several days).
  • To install the pots, choose the sunny side of the window (south or southeast is ideal).
  • Do not place other plants next to cucumbers.
  • During the growing season, it is necessary to maintain a certain temperature regime: during the day - over 18 °, at night - from 14 ° C.
  • Avoid drafts in a room with seedlings.
  • Timely carry out irrigation, aeration, introduce complementary foods.

The right time to board

Sowing work can be started as early as February... It is also appropriate to engage in agricultural technology of balcony cucumbers in March and April. The timing is determined based on the temperature regime on the loggia or balcony. When the thermometer stops dropping below 12-14 ° C at night, the time has come. To obtain earlier fruits, the owners use the seedling method. In late January - early February, seeds are sown in paper cups and stored in an apartment. A well-lit room with an air temperature of no more than 18-20 ° C is suitable for this. When using utility rooms where there are no large window openings, it is recommended to install a special lamp above the drawers.

Before sowing, it is necessary to sort the seeds and soak them in a solution of potassium permanganate. You can also process the grain in a growth promoter.

Care of the first shoots

Before emergence, containers with planted seeds are covered with foil or glass... After greenery appears on the surface of the soil, the coating must be removed. Further care is necessary for the development of young shoots. At this stage, many are faced with the problem of shoot death, so it is important to provide the right conditions.

Lighting

Good lighting is required for the vegetative process. If the window is in the shade of trees or on the north side, you need to install fluorescent lamps as an additional source.

Watering

Watering is carried out with settled water at room temperature. Irrigation should be carried out daily, and when using additional lighting - 2 times a day. Cucumbers, although they belong to moisture-loving plants, it is necessary to ensure that the water does not stagnate in the cups, otherwise the roots will rot.

Top dressing

Complementary food for seedlings is introduced twice: 2 weeks after germination and another week... A solution of water (6 l) and urea (tablespoon) is used as a nutrient liquid. A glass of fertilizer is consumed per seedling.

Transplanting seedlings by boxes

After the formation of 2-3 leaves on the stem, it is time to transplant the seedlings to a permanent place. The capacity for one bush should be 5-8 liters with a hole on the bottom for draining excess water. The bottom is covered with a 5-10 cm layer of drainage (pebbles, expanded clay, crushed stone). A mixture of equal portions is prepared as a substrate:

  • nutrient soil;
  • peat;
  • humus;
  • sawdust.
  • before planting seedlings, the soil is fertilized with a liquid composition of:
  • water (10 l);
  • nitrophoski (2 tsp);
  • ash (glass);
  • urea (1 tsp).

In the prepared hole, carefully place the extracted lump with soil and seedling root. This way, damage to the weak root system can be avoided.

Variety care

The Balkonny variety is unpretentious, but still needs attention.

Garter

The scourge of the plant is actively growing, which requires a timely garter... A wire is pulled over the container with the seedling at a height of about 170 cm. From it, the twine is lowered to the pot, wrapped (not tight!) Around the stem several times and again raised to the wire, fixing the connection. This method will protect the plant from damage.

Pinch

The cucumber lash is formed into one stalk... For these purposes, you need to periodically remove the mustache. After the branch reaches the height of the wire, pinch off the end. Side shoots are also removed, this will give strength to the main stem for development. From the rest of the processes, the pinching is done over the ovary and one sheet is preserved, which one is up to you, apparently the largest.

Watering and feeding

Irrigation of seedlings is carried out 2-3 times a week. You should also moisten the lash by spraying. Water for irrigation is preliminarily settled and heated under the sun's rays to a temperature of at least 17 ° C.
After transplanting seedlings to a permanent place, it is necessary to introduce fertilizers every 10 days... Mineral complex baits or tree resin, infusion of tea leaves, eggshells are suitable.

Reviews of gardeners about home cucumbers

Lyudmila, St. Petersburg
Last season I tried to grow cucumbers on the window, chose the Balkonny variety. The plant is compact, unpretentious, it is a pleasure to take care of it. I have harvested 14 kg from 5 bushes.

Antonina, Oryol
I have been growing cucumbers on the window for 3 seasons. This year I planted the Balkonny variety for the first time. I immediately noticed good seed germination and productivity. Fruit collection is still ongoing, but the total weight has already exceeded 10 kg.

Ivan Valentinovich, Moscow
I really liked the balcony variety for home cultivation. All summer we eat salads exclusively from vegetables harvested directly on the loggia. The biggest harvest record was taken last year - 22 kg were harvested from 7 bushes.

Rimma, Saratov region
My window is located on the south side, so from the sunshine abundance I came up with a thin tulle shading on the glass. I also installed a humidifier near the windowsill. This helped to survive the hot season without losing the harvest.

Vladimir, Ufa
I start sowing seedlings of cucumbers for growing fruits on the balcony in January. At the end of February, I transfer the roots to separate pots. Already in mid-April, he began to shoot the first cucumbers. The Balcony variety is ideal for cultivation at home.
Taking into account the advice of experienced gardeners, and adhering to the principles of technology, a balcony or window can be beautifully landscaped and a good harvest of fruits can be removed. At the same time, you can enjoy the taste of summer until the first frost.


Varieties of cucumbers for the balcony growing on the window

If you like gardening, then growing cucumbers in an apartment is for you.

Greetings, my dear readers!

In urban settings, we eat only those vegetables that we buy in the market and in the store. However, those who have a persistent desire to treat themselves and their homemade fresh products "just from the garden", and in the metropolis will find the opportunity to grow cucumbers on the window with their own hands.

They can also be dropped off on the loggia / balcony. At the same time, materially, you will receive a good harvest of vegetables, and spiritually - the joy of interacting with living plants.

Term number 1: optimal conditions for the success of the enterprise

For your attempt at gardening to be successful, you must take into account those special conditions that develop on the balcony.

Location of the "vegetable garden"

The balcony or loggia should be glazed and located on the sunny side of the house.

Not any loggia or balcony is suitable for growing cucumbers.

  1. The most important condition for this agricultural culture to develop, grow and bear fruit without problems is a constant temperature regime. During the day - over +18 degrees, at night - more than +15 degrees.
  2. Cucumbers do not tolerate drafts. With a high degree of probability, you will not harvest a more or less decent crop on a balcony that is not protected from the wind.
  3. This southern culture is very fond of light. Even by equipping additional lighting, you are unlikely to achieve acceptable fruiting, in the case when the loggia (balcony) is located on the north or west side of the building.

Based on the foregoing, cucumbers should be grown with their own hands on a necessarily glazed balcony. In addition, it should be well lit by the rays of the sun and located on the south, southeast or east side of the house.

If you manage to make the most of the sunlight and heat on the loggia, you can safely start choosing seeds.

What varieties are suitable

Varietal type "Balcony" is best suited for growing in an apartment.

Loggia and balcony are very limited.

  1. Based on this, hybrid cucumbers with a compact habit: short internodes and small leaves are optimal for growing on them.
  2. The branching of plants does not matter: it can be strong or weak.
  3. It is best to choose non-bush, that is, tall varieties of vegetables.
  4. With low soil and air humidity, as well as insufficient illumination, shade-tolerant and drought-resistant cucumbers, having a powerful root system, grow better than others.

There are now many varieties of seeds on the market that are specifically designed for balcony germination.

When choosing seeds, carefully read their label. It should be written there that the variety is hybrid, shade-tolerant, has small fruits, does not need pollination and can be grown in a balcony.

So, at the moment, agricultural breeders have bred a group of special varieties of cucumbers, they bear the general name "Balkonny". It includes such hybrids:

  • F-1 "City gherkin"
  • F-1 "Balcony"
  • F-1 "Berendey"
  • F-1 "Machaon"
  • F-1 Calendar
  • F-1 "Balagan"
  • F-1 "Courage"
  • F-1 "Hummingbird", etc.

It is best to grow cucumbers on the loggia that do not require pollination.

In addition to these analogs, there are other varieties of cucumbers for the balcony, well adapted to indoor, not capricious and stable. For indoor planting, it is best to choose parthenocarpic hybrids (not requiring pollination), For example: Barnaulets, Balconnoe Miracle, Dragonfly, Matrix, Parus, Dubrovsky.

Analogs "Zozulya", "Cucaracha" and "April" can bear fruit without pollination by bees. However, nothing terrible will happen if insects take part in their fertilization.

  1. If you prefer pollinated window-balcony varieties of cucumbers, choose the hybrids Ladoga, Olympiada, Fregat, Gribovsky. Please note that you will have to attend to artificial pollination when they bloom.
  2. For male flowers, plant the Ermine or Hercules varieties. They have combined colors. Due to this, they can be used as pollinators and independent hybrids.
  3. For fertilization, the instruction prescribes to cut off the male color (with stamens) and attach it to the female counterpart (with a pestle). In this case, pollen from the stamens will fall into the pistil. If you do not, then the female color will not form an ovary, but will simply disappear.

I would like to separately mention for you the mysterious labeling of F-1 varieties. It means that these are the seeds of hybrid cucumbers. To grow such a crop, agricultural technicians cross 2 different varieties of vegetables.

The seeds collected in the end are hybrids in the first generation. This is what the “F-1” marking (letter “F” is an abbreviation for the Italian word “filli”, that is, “children”, and the number “1” means the first generation).

I want to warn you right away that the main disadvantage of such hybrid cucumbers is the fact that it is useless to collect seeds from them. They are not viable and simply will not germinate.

What to grow

Most often, cucumbers are grown in pots and flowerpots.

Planting of cucumber seeds is carried out from the second half of April to the beginning of May. If you do this earlier, then the buds will appear prematurely - before the cucumbers can be placed on the balcony. There will be a risk of the ovaries falling off. In addition, due to insufficient light, the lianas will grow too actively.

For growing cucumbers, you can use a variety of containers: plastic containers for flowers, pots, flowerpots and even double bags made of polyethylene (tucking the edges at the bottom). The best option if the containers will have a double bottom. In the upper of them there will be drainage holes for the drainage of excess water, and the lower one will act as a sump.

I warn you that cucumbers love water, therefore, they should be watered in abundance. In the course of the growth of the lashes, their roots will reach through the holes in the upper bottom into the lower bottom. From there they will actively "drink" water on hot days.

At the same time, the soil will not be waterlogged. This is important because the roots of cucumbers do not tolerate excess soil water, it interferes with their breathing.

Soil composition

The soil should be structured and loose.

Fill seed containers with soil before planting. Do this without filling about 5 cm to their top. During the growing season, the soil will begin to settle, and you will add it to the desired level.

The volume of soil per plant should be at least 5 liters. Otherwise, it will dry out during fruiting.

  1. Any well-structured and loose soil is suitable for cucumbers, but not dense clay or podzolic sod soil. Compost, lowland or high-moor peat, as well as various soil-peat mixtures are also suitable.
  2. The acidity of the substrate should be 6.6-6.8 pH (from its aqueous extract). This indicator can be found using the acidity determinant (pH meter).You can buy it at a hardware store.
  3. In the case when the soil is acidic, it should be limed. To do this, add dolomite flour, lime or finely ground chalk to it. The norms for the consumption of dolomite powder per 10 liters of peat: if it is low-lying, then 10 grams, transitional - 15-20, high-moor - 20-30.
  4. Soil substrates, which contain only a fraction of peat or it is absent altogether, have different levels of acidity.
  • When the acidity of the aqueous extract is 6.2-6.5 pH per 10 liters of soil, 5-10 grams of dolomite powder must be added. The rate of adding lime and chalk is 3-7 grams.

It is best to purchase a ready-made soil substrate.

The best option for a novice balcony gardener is to use a ready-made soil substrate. Such soil is sold in stores already filled with fertilizers and limed. The price of such a substrate is low. Moisture-retaining additives (eg agrotechnical gel) can be added to it.

Term number 2: cultivation techniques

Basic agricultural techniques.

When growing cucumbers at home, carefully follow all agrotechnical requirements. There should be no trifles here.

Seed preparation

Disinfection of seeds with potassium permanganate.

  1. If the seeds you purchased have a colored shell, then they can not be treated against harmful microorganisms.
  2. Otherwise, they should be disinfected in order to prevent various diseases. Dip the seeds for 15-20 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (1 g of potassium permanganate per 100 ml of water). Then rinse them with running water.

The photo shows germinated seeds.

  1. Then you can start germinating the seeds. Wrap them in cheesecloth and keep it slightly damp. After two days, the seeds will hatch.

I want to warn you about one of my curious agrotechnical experiments: germinated seeds were placed in 5 seedling cups, and not germinated in 5 other containers. The result of the experiment was that in the cups with non-germinated seeds, the sprouts hatched a day later than with the germinated seeds.

And one more important circumstance that I understood: do not neglect sprouting when preparing cucumber seeds. You can run into a different "embryo" (for example, an F-1 hybrid) and then you will be wasting your time. I did just that - out of five seeds, two were not viable.

How to grow seedlings

Prepared seeds can be planted in a flower container. Make holes along its middle line (2 cm deep and 40 cm increments). For insurance, you can plant two seeds in each hole.

Cover the sowing with plastic wrap and put it in a well-lit place. The best option is if it is a warm windowsill.

When removing seedlings, it should firmly braid the soil with roots.

The best volume of seedling containers is 200-300 milliliters. If it is larger, the lump of soil will crumble when the cucumbers are transplanted to a permanent place. In other words, the roots will not be able to braid the soil tightly. With smaller dimensions, the soil will dry out quickly.

  1. Therefore, it is convenient to plant seeds for seedlings in disposable cups. Growing in plastic bottles with cut necks is also popular.
  2. As I already wrote, the soil substrate can be bought at the store or prepared on your own. For example, mixing wood dust, peat, humus and earth in equal proportions.
  3. Fill the soil with fertilizer: add a glass of ash (200 g) to its bucket (10 l), two teaspoons of nitrophosphate and a teaspoon of urea.
  4. Before planting seeds, disinfect the containers: rinse with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or hold over steam.
  5. Punch holes in the bottoms of the cups so that the water does not stagnate in them. Then fill them with substrate and plant seeds in each container to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

The optimum temperature regime for germinating cucumber seeds is + 24 / + 26˚.

On an open balcony, it is better to plant seedlings in a permanent place.

  1. When the weather is stable and warm in spring, on open balconies / loggias, you can apply both the seedless method (direct sowing of germinated or dry seeds into permanent containers) and seedling.
  2. If the weather is cold and unstable, seedlings should be planted.
  3. In the middle zone of the Russian Federation, cucumber seedlings are planted on open loggias / balconies from about May 10, if they are glazed - from the end of April. Planting should be completed by the second decade of June.
  4. The best home seedlings are those with two or three true leaves and a not yet elongated hypocotyl (the area of ​​the stem from the ground level to the cotyledons). Older plants will take less root.

When sprouts hatch in the containers, they should be provided with sufficient lighting. From their appearance to the formation of two or three true leaves in ordinary varieties of cucumbers, it takes from 10 to 20 days.

Growing seedlings of the varietal group of hybrids "Balkonny" has its own characteristics.

  1. In ordinary cucumbers, the seedlings begin to outgrow and lay on their side in the phase of 5-6 true leaves (then the first tendril is formed).
  2. Balcony hybrids have small leaves and a sturdy stem. Thanks to this, "adolescents" stand upright and at the age of 6-8 true leaves.
  • Therefore, you can plant in a permanent place and more mature cucumbers of the varietal group "Balkonny" without deteriorating their survival rate. So you will contribute to a stronger run of seedlings in development and speed up the beginning of fruiting.
  • So, keep in mind - if there is a prolonged cool weather, then the age of the hybrid seedlings can be safely brought to 6 real leaves (this is 25-30 days).

About temperature

The temperature regime for the cultivation of cucumbers.

  1. When germinating seeds, the ambient temperature should be + 24-26 degrees.
  2. When sprouts appear, maintain the air temperature: + 20-24 degrees during the day, 18-19 at night, and the soil temperature + 20-24. A hotter ambient temperature will lead to excessive stretching of the seedlings.
  3. After 4-5 days, you can increase the air temperature during the day in sunny weather up to + 24-26 degrees, if it is cloudy - up to + 20-24 degrees. Bring it to + 19-21 degrees at night.
  4. The temperature of the seedling soil should not be less than + 18-20 degrees. Otherwise, the cucumbers will grow slowly and be weak. Another reason why seedlings do not grow is that the leaves of neighboring shoots should not shade each other.

It is quite difficult to regulate the temperature regime on the balcony. As a result, it will be easier for you to move the shoots from it to the room and vice versa. This will help you achieve the desired temperature. For example, choosing the most illuminated area during the day.

We feed and water the sprouts

It will be pleasant for younger family members to water the sprouts.

In addition to the main fertilization of the seedling substrate, the sprouts should be fed. This is done 2 times.

  1. The first feeding is done a couple of weeks after the sprouts appear (the phase of two true leaves).
  2. The second is carried out after another seven days (the age of three true sheets).

About how to feed the seedlings of cucumbers on the window.

  1. For this you can take any complex mineral fertilizer dissolved in water (concentration 2-3 g per 1 liter of water).
  2. A nutrient mixture can be prepared by stirring about a tablespoon of urea in 6 liters of water.
  3. They feed the seedlings under the roots with it until the seedling container is completely moistened (about one glass of the nutrient solution).

Cucumbers love water very much. Their sprouts should be watered every day. In this case, the water must be settled and have room temperature. When the seedlings are additionally illuminated, they should be watered 2 times a day.

Term number 3: transfer to a permanent place

5-liter water bottles in coolers are best for cucumbers.

The signal for transplanting sprouts to a permanent place is the formation of 3-6 (depending on the variety) true leaves.

  1. Containers for growing vegetables should have a volume of 5-8 liters. You can use 5-liter cropped plastic water jugs, flower containers and boxes, ceramic pots and vases, or plastic bags. The containers should be equipped with holes for moisture drainage.
  2. Pour drainage from small expanded clay, brick chips or crushed stone on the bottoms of the container.
  3. Fill the containers with the same potting soil you used for the seedlings. Do it not to the top. Leave 4-5 cm from the top of the container free. When the roots become bare during the growth of cucumbers, you can fill up the soil.
  4. Immediately before planting seedlings, disinfect the substrate by watering it with a solution of potassium permanganate.
  5. Remove the seedlings from the cups together with the soil clod and plant them in "adult" pots.

Plant care

Water the plants daily.

Now how to care for growing cucumbers. This task mainly consists in watering them in a timely manner. Your wards should not experience a lack of water.

  1. It is not only the soil that should be moistened, but the air too.
  2. To this end, place a container with water (bucket, basin) on the loggia / balcony and top up it regularly.
  3. In the evening, give the plants a "shower" - spray them with water from a spray bottle.
  4. In addition, add moisture to the lower pan. It will be drunk from there by the roots that have sprouted through the drainage holes.
  5. With high humidity, you can water cucumbers two to three times a week. In dry climates, daily.
  6. Water must be used at room temperature and previously settled.

In case of excessively hot weather outside (more than + 30˚), protect the cucumber leaves from direct sunlight, otherwise they will burn.

At nights in August it is already cool for southern plants. Wrap containers with burlap in the evening. This will help relieve hypothermia from the roots.

And finally - in the process of growing cucumber vines, change the points of their tying.

Tying whips

Tying the vines with twines to the trellis.

Before growing cucumbers, keep in mind that they are, in fact, a vine. Based on this, her lashes should be tied up:

  1. Each liana, in the process of its growth, is twisted around a vertically stretched twine, fixed on top to a stationary support (trellis). It is usually a rigid, horizontally stretched wire.
  2. Stationary supports are stretched along the wall or along the sides of the loggia / balcony. In small rooms, the trellis wire is placed at the level of the arm raised up - this is 2.1-2.2 meters.

When containers with growing cucumbers are placed not on the balcony floor, but on supports (for example, on pedestals), the distance from the soil level to the trellis is reduced. This will negatively affect your harvest as the number of stem nodes will be less.

  1. Proceeding from this, when the lianas lianas in the process of growth "crawl" close to the support wire, carry out the reception of agricultural technicians "lowering the twine". Untie all the strings from the trellis, lower the pots from the pedestals to the floor of the room, lengthen the strings and again tie them to the supporting wire.

Cucumbers on rigid mobile supports made of wooden slats.

  1. You may have difficulties with the arrangement of stationary balcony tapestries. Then you can use another cultivation technique, providing mobile supports for cucumber vines. Then fix a vertically located rigid support in each container. The vines of cucumbers will curl along it.
  2. The third method of growing cucumber lashes on a loggia / balcony is to use pots. That is, in baskets or pots suspended from the ceiling.

Pinching vines

Most of the hybrid cucumbers of the varietal type "Balconny" have abundant branching and do not grow much in length. Therefore, they are ampelous plants. That is, you can not pinch them or pinch only the growing tips of the shoots. Fruit set with this method remains high.

  1. But when the lashes are excessively hitting in growth, at the age of 10-12 leaves they should be pinched.
  2. Form, if possible, the vines of the cucumbers into one whip (stem). To this end, regularly break off the antennae on them.
  3. When to pinch. The main lash should be shortened when it reaches the full height that the balcony conditions allow. For example, it will reach the trellis.
  4. The shoots on the sides must be cut off so that the excessive volume of green mass does not take away the vitality of the vine. They will be needed for the formation and ripening of fruits.
  5. Tear off other shoots or cut off above the ovary. Leave one sheet at the same time.

Top dressing of adult plants

Growing cucumbers on a window requires regular feeding. This is especially necessary for plants when they begin to bear fruit. Feed the cucumbers with mineral fertilizers every 7-10 days.

  1. Start feeding the cucumbers after 2 weeks, as the sprouts appear. For them, use the following nutrient solution: for 10 liters of pure water, 15 g of potassium, 5 g of ammonium nitrate, 3 g of superphosphate and 5 g of magnesium. Water the plants with fertilizer so that it does not fall on the leaves.
  2. For adult plants, use a different fertilizer: take an aqueous solution of mullein (ratio 1:10) and stir 15 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate in it.
  3. Cucumbers also love natural nutrition: infusion of tea or egg shells, wood ash.

About pests and their destruction

Whiteflies love cucumbers the most.

Not only we love fresh cucumbers. Prepare to be attacked by various insect pests. Having identified the enemy, start fighting with him. In this case, it is better not to use chemicals.

Here are the most common cucumber lovers and how to deal with them.

  1. Aphid. To get rid of it will help tobacco broth. Gut 20 cigarettes and fill them with one liter of water, put on fire. Bring the product to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Then add another 1 liter of water to the composition. When it cools down, fill it with a spray bottle and spray it over the cucumber leaves.
  2. Whitefly. It can be destroyed by the same tobacco broth, however, stronger (30 cigarettes per 1 liter of water). You can collect the pest from the leaves and with a vacuum cleaner operating at low power.
  3. Spider mite. Garlic tincture will help to destroy it. Chop a head of garlic in 1 liter of water. Insist the mixture for 1.5-2 hours. Then strain the tincture and dissolve 15 g of laundry soap in it. Next, fill the composition into a spray bottle and spray it on the affected plants.

What to do in winter

Growing cucumbers in the winter on the loggia / balcony is also possible. However, keep in mind some points here.

Heating dries up the air, which is harmful to plants. Based on this, you will have to additionally humidify the air in winter.

  1. Place trays filled with gravel under the vines and moisten it periodically.
  2. Use a humidifier.
  3. Place wet cheesecloth on the radiator and moisten it regularly.

In the winter season, cucumbers can only be grown on the loggia / balcony if they are glazed, heated and well insulated. A water heating radiator or an installed electric heater will help to ensure a constant temperature of + 24-26˚ there. Do not forget to insulate the balcony windows for the winter, and tighten the vents with polyethylene.

Indoors, cucumbers often lack natural light, especially during the winter months. This can be seen from the fact that their leaves turn yellow.

  1. Therefore, when the seedlings hatch, so that they do not weaken, it should be additionally illuminated from 8 am to 4 pm.
  2. The best solution is to use special phyto-lamps for this. However, ordinary luminescent counterparts can also be used.
  3. Hang the lamps over the seedlings at a distance of about 15 cm. Having transplanted the sprouts to a permanent place, move the lamps as they grow, maintaining the sounded distance.
  4. Starting from March, 4 hours of additional illumination will be enough for cucumbers.

About the cycle of cucumbers in nature

The fruiting period for balcony hybrids lasts about 3 months. When it's over, cut the lianas and dig out the roots of the plants.

Shake the remaining soil out of the containers into plastic bags.You can apply this soil next year as a base, supplementing it with the same volume of new substrate.

Do not throw away cucumber containers, twine and trellis. All this will come in handy in the coming season.

Output

Self-grown cucumbers - why not a reason for joy?

Growing cucumbers on the window is an entertaining and easy task. If you do everything correctly, you can collect up to 30 fresh, environmentally friendly cucumbers from each of your wards during the fruiting period.

The video in this article will help you learn a lot more interesting things. If you do not understand something, ask your questions in the comments.

Hereby I say goodbye, and success in your endeavors!

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Characteristics of the variety

The hybrid was launched in 2007. The breeders of the Manul agricultural firm worked on a variety that could be grown in city apartments in the central region. But Balkonny even exceeded the expectations of scientists. It is capable of bearing fruit both indoors and outdoors, yields yields and feels great in almost all climatic zones of Russia. It can be grown in severe frost.

The variety is self-pollinated. In one bosom forms 6-8 zelents. Refers to the female flowering type. Fruit:

  • dark green
  • small - 6-8 cm
  • cylindrical
  • have a sweetish taste, therefore they are suitable for consumption both fresh and for canning.

Average yield - 2 kg per bush. But if the indicators of humidity and temperature are observed, fruiting can be doubled. Soil is an important factor affecting yield. It must be fertilized, contain a sufficient amount of micro and macro elements. You cannot do without the use of both organic matter and mineral fertilizers. The variety is distinguished by amicable fruiting, 6-8 cucumbers are formed in one bosom.

The fruiting period is 40-42 days from the moment of germination. Usually, the first cucumbers appear on the 40th day, subject to the rules of agricultural technology. Drafts can negatively affect cucumber yields and even kill plants. Changes in day and night temperatures will also lead to slow ripening. In conditions of short daylight hours, plants require special illumination with phytolamps.

Hybrid Balcony F1 has several advantages:

  • high resistance to cladosporium, mosaic and powdery mildew
  • early ripening of fruits
  • friendly return of the harvest
  • good yield.

  • exactingness to the balance of soil composition
  • afraid of exposure to direct sunlight.

Despite some disadvantages, the hybrid has established itself on the positive side, as it makes it possible to grow fresh cucumbers at home at any time of the year.


Care: balcony cucumber F1, growing on the window

Care and the procedures that you will do for the future harvest are very important. For all the fact that you purchase seeds of a special balcony variety, they still need care. For example, you need to shade the plants on hot days so that the sun does not burn the leaves.

Also, the rules of care include:

  • Mulching to retain moisture in the soil - this can be sphagnum mulch
  • Also, in the heat, you can put a container of water next to the planting to increase the humidity on the balcony.
  • Evening hours - time for abundant spraying of cucumbers
  • Daily watering of plants is a must, cucumbers love moisture.

Hybrids grown by the window-balcony method must be pinched. Plants that are actively growing are pinched at the 11-12th leaf stage. And already at the end of the season, somewhere in the middle of August, containers with cucumbers need to be wrapped with a covering material, the same burlap. This will prevent the roots of the plants from being supercooled.


Compact, fruitful and tasty!

I would like to share my impressions about one of my favorite varieties (hybrids) of balcony cucumber.

It all started two years ago, when I first wanted to experiment and plant cucumbers on the balcony. Today, the idea is not new and therefore everyone who is not too lazy to grow stunning harvests of various crops on their loggias from greens to potatoes with strawberries =) So I opted for cucumbers and tomatoes. But here and today I will continue to talk about the "Balconny" cucumber hybrid.

I bought for the first time and am buying to this day (this year will be the third time) the seeds of the Russian vegetable garden company. ”My expectations completely coincided with what is shown on the package in terms of the appearance of both the fruits and the size of the bush, although the leaves are still in my case, they come out larger than the manufacturers promise, but this is not important for me.The hybrid itself is really quite compact in terms of not too large leaves.

When I planted this variety for the first time, perhaps back then due to my little experience in cultivation, the harvest was almost not pleased, for the whole summer I picked only about 5 cucumbers from one bush, although the plants were healthy and they had enough of everything, but for some reason they did not want to tie fruit. And it was even such that the ovaries formed and grew about 5-7 cm. sii. turned yellow and fell off. It was a shame. The photo shows one of these "held" cucumbers.

Then I definitely decided that I would pick up knowledge from skilled craftsmen and next year I would reveal all my balcony and garden talent =)

And so it happened. The next spring, at the end of April, I planted several Balkonny bushes. I pre-checked the seeds for germination, carried out the necessary procedures and planted them. I planted it in purchased soil specifically for cucumbers. Seeds sprout in about 4-6 days under favorable conditions. From the moment of germination to the formation of the first true leaf, several more days pass (this is purely individual, if all the conditions are met, problems should not arise). At the time of the formation of 3-4 real leaves, you can transplant the seedlings to a permanent place, I had ordinary five-liter water bottles. For this variety, it is quite enough, since the hybrid was created specifically for growing in a confined space.

Since the summer of 2017 turned out to be bad, cold and rainy, those who grew on their blood webs in the country did not grow much, someone completely lost everything. But for us, under such weather conditions, the option of growing on a loggia only plays into our hands - they are protected from wind and torrential rains, the conditions are almost greenhouse. Therefore, to the envy of many, and even sometimes to myself, the harvest was quite good! From one bush, I collected about 3 kg per season. In total, I grew two bushes of this variety, two more, unfortunately, died, most likely, they were initially weak. They began to bear fruit with the first cucumbers at the end of June. I fed them with ordinary liquid universal fertilizer, alternating root and foliar feeding. The fruits are even, the taste is excellent. When you try, they smell like full-fledged cucumbers from the garden. The only thing I can say, but these are the costs of the variety, that to someone they may not seem too juicy, aromatic and crunchy. In fact, it is so. But this is the sort. However, in taste, he is not inferior to anyone.

I shot the last cucumbers at the end of October.

In the photo you can clearly see the result of one of the harvests.


This spring, I got a great idea: why not grow something edible on the window? To begin with, the florist of me is so-so. Sometimes even the most unpretentious flowers could dry out quietly or turn into an unattractive plucked specimen. The most tenacious, or those who apparently became an exception to the rule, still "bloom and smell." But I didn't have to be a gardener.

Unfortunately, we do not have a summer cottage, so we replenish the supply of vitamins in the markets, or we receive delicious gifts from friends and relatives. Therefore, it was decided to buy several packs of seeds for growing on the windowsill, among them were tomatoes, peppers, herbs and, of course, cucumbers.

I immediately looked for seeds suitable for growing at home. On the advice of one blogger, I chose "Balcony Miracle F1" from ELITagro. I took only one pack for a sample, so there should have been about 10 seeds inside. This was quite enough for me, because I did not plan to grow overgrown with cucumber thickets.

Full name: Cucumber Balcony Miracle F1

Place of purchase: online store My-Shop

Price:19 rubles

it early maturing parthenocarpic hybrid... For those who do not know, I will explain. Parthenocarp is the ability of a plant, and in our case a cucumber, to set fruits without pollination. The process does not involve male cells. That is, you do not need to dance with a tambourine, holding a brush in your hands and pollinating flowers. My stepfather did just that when he decided a long time ago to grow his garden on the balcony, the seeds were ordinary, so he had to work as a bee.

According to the information on the package, fruiting occurs quite early - already on the 40-45th day I could enjoy crispy and juicy fruits. This is what bribed me, I wanted to quickly try the results of my work.

And most importantly, this variety is suitable for growing in a small container at home. But it can also be used outdoors.

APPEARANCE
I received the seeds in a regular package: smooth, dense, moisture-proof. On the front there is a photograph of the most beautiful cucumbers that I dreamed of growing. On the back - information about the plant, as well as recommendations for growing and care.

Indeed, every seed was blue in color. For me, as a beginner in this matter, it was unusual, but Google suggested that in this way manufacturers prepare their seeds for planting, treating them with special polymers from pests and diseases. They do not need to be pre-soaked, but should be sown dry in prepared moist soil.

The seeds themselves are the usual size, which can be found in a cut cucumber. They are oblong, slightly elongated, and slightly convex.

I was ripe for my garden in the spring of March. It was already the end of the month, it would be time to have seedlings on the windowsill, and I was just swinging. At the same time, I sowed tomatoes and peppers, I was more worried about them, because they come into fruiting much later than the jet cucumber Balconie miracle F1.

I took the most common soil that I could find in Leroy Merlin - universal, suitable for seedlings as well.

Agricultural technology: medium clay, breathable soils are suitable for cucumber.

I sowed my seeds in ordinary plastic cups, pre-spilled the earth with water. Then she put one seed at a time on the surface of the soil, without deepening them, and sprinkled one spoonful of earth on top.

Already March 27 some seeds hatched, slightly lifting the soil. And in just one night (28 march) there were real seedlings with cotyledon leaves.

After emergence, it is recommended to lower the temperature to cool. If the seeds are sown at 25 ° C, they are usually reduced to 15 ° C. I did not observe this moment, I kept the seedlings on the window all the time, without transferring them anywhere.

It is necessary to dive cucumbers, that is, to transplant them into a more spacious pot, at the moment when the first real leaves begin to appear.

My grandmother always tied ropes to the greenhouse, along which cucumbers proudly began to weave their so-called vines. Even in the open field, she managed to substitute some kind of wooden box for them.

After transplanting, the cucumbers began to grow very actively and stretch upward. The twine helped the wattle fence and served as a good support.

The day I saw him. Yes, yes, the first cucumbers appeared, still so small, but promising. And there were several of them. They are still poorly formed, and the buds are just gaining color.

There were barren flowers on the wattle fence, and in some pots there were a lot of them. But one cucumber immediately began to bear fruit in full. Others then pulled up too, so the harvest was enough for me.

Every day I watched with great pleasure how my work literally bore fruit. It was fascinating to watch the growth of cucumbers, the child actively participated in the process, especially since this lesson just fell into the self-isolation regime, which was introduced in most regions of Russia.

The cucumbers grew very fast! After the dive, they began to develop at a breakneck speed, and for home conditions the fruits were also quite actively gaining strength. Look at this cucumber, which has noticeably gained weight in three days.

Cucumbers ripened one by one, there were many of them. I did not try to grow huge fruits, because they would simply take away the strength from others, so when they reached about 19-10 centimeters, I took them off.

IRRIGATION / FERTILIZATION

Several times I spilled the seedlings with potassium humate, diluting it according to the instructions written on the package. I probably also used it once or twice when the plant was in a pot. In general, these are all the dressings that have been used by me.

I didn't bother with watering, and as I understand now, in vain. I watered my cucumbers in the evening with either warm or cold water. The ground was quite damp and remained that way until about 11-12 noon.

In theory, the water needs to be defended, it must be warm. But due to my inexperience, I did not follow these rules, which actually paid for it.

There were many of them. Perhaps I'll start with the fact that I did not observe the temperature regime for seedlings. But this somehow did not prevent my plants from growing well, occupying the entire window and even bearing fruit.

The wrong place for the pots was my second mistake. We have the eastern side, in the spring until about 12 noon the bright sun shines. At this time of the year, it is already quite aggressive, the glass heats up quickly, and the cucumbers were simply hot. Plus, the still working battery threw in a few problems. The leaves were withered, there was simply not enough watering. So I had to moisten the soil twice a day.

The pots were the third mistake. I did not prepare at all for the garden on the windowsill, I just bought land and seeds, and just sowed them. The volume of the pot must be large, at least 5 liters. Mine were much smaller. The roots literally flooded everything! There was not enough space for them, it was impossible even to loosen the earth, because it was all in the roots.

I poured soil from above, but the stubborn roots still pulled out. In such a state, when my cucumbers were already more than a meter, there was no point in replanting them.

Another mistake I will call the moment that I did not form my plants in any way. Experienced gardeners are advised to remove all ovaries up to the fifth true leaf. And many more lead them into one trunk, removing all side shoots. I allowed mine to grow into real thickets.

All this led to the fact that when the cucumbers began to grow actively, and the fruits grew stronger every day, new young cucumbers turned yellow and fell off.

By the way, no living creatures were seen either in pots or on wattle fences with cucumbers. Although many complain that sometimes they have a similar problem.

Definitely a garden on the window to be! But it is still worth preparing for it, perhaps reading advice, taking into account the mistakes of those who have already dealt with cucumbers. During these couple of months of fruiting, we ate a good amount of cucumbers, but we could have had more if not for my mistakes.

Fruits grew everywhere: both below and above, under the very ceiling on the window.

Remember I wrote that this is a parthenocarpic hybrid? He really doesn't need pollination, he does a great job on his own. But be prepared for the fact that when you cut a cucumber, you will not see the seeds, because such hybrids simply do not have them. But this does not affect the taste at all.

The seeds from ELITagro turned out to be good, their germination rate is 100%. Of the five that I planted, all five rose and bore fruit.Isn't it cool? I will definitely sow the remaining seeds next spring in order to enjoy the process again, possibly correct my mistakes, and get an even richer harvest.

Thank you all for your attention to the review!


Growing seedlings

By following the step-by-step instructions, almost any person can, even without experience in this matter. Planting seedlings makes it possible, as it grows, to choose the strongest and healthiest plants that will bear the most fruits.

Sowing dates

To harvest in summer, cucumber seeds must be sown in late April or early May. If you do this a little earlier, the lashes can be very stretched due to the short daylight hours. Premature planting of buds in still unsettled warm weather will lead to drying and falling of flowers. Planting dates depend on the region, the main thing is that a month after germination, the temperature on the balcony, where the seedlings are standing, does not fall below 15 ° C.

Photo: podgardening.co.nz

Seed preparation

The planting material should not have traces of rot and dark spots. Good cucumber seeds are smooth, flat-convex, yellowish-white, odorless. If the grains in the package are greenish or of a different color, it is likely that they are treated with a special composition against pests and diseases. Cucumber seeds can be planted both dry and sprouted. Before germination, the seeds are placed for 10 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

Then they are rinsed with water, laid out on a layer of damp gauze and covered with another layer. A plate with soaked seeds is placed in a warm place with a temperature of about 24 ° C. The gauze is periodically moistened, preventing it from drying out. After two days, the seeds will be ready for planting in the ground. Before that, for 2-3 hours, the gauze is moistened with a solution of a growth stimulator ("Epin", "Zircon"). It is necessary to plant dry cucumber seeds a little earlier, since with this method the seedlings appear later.

Seedling container

You can sow seeds in any shallow container, the main thing is that it has drainage holes, which exclude stagnation of water at the bottom. Small plastic containers, which are sold in any major supermarket, and disposable cups are perfect. When sowing in a general container, the seedlings of cucumbers will need to be dived afterwards.

Growing in peat pots will allow for a larger transplant without disturbing the root system of the plant.

Soil preparation

Before sowing seeds, you should start preparing the soil. There are several simple soil mixture recipes for growing balcony cucumbers. Which one is better can only be determined empirically:

  • sod land, ash, sawdust, peat, compost (in equal parts)
  • the same ingredients as in the previous version, flavored with urea and nitrophosphate at the rate of 10 g per 10 liters of soil
  • turf soil (½ bucket), compost (½ bucket), lime (50 g), ash (200 g), complex fertilizer (15 g).

It is advisable to prepare the soil mixed according to the last recipe at the summer cottage, since it will need to be placed in a plastic bag and shallowly dug in for a couple of weeks to overheat.

Photo: maximumyield.com

Seed planting technology

Before planting hatched or dry seeds, the soil is spilled with a pinkish solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds are placed to a depth of 1.5 cm, sprinkled with soil, slightly moistened with a spray bottle and covered with polyethylene. The containers are placed in a warm place where the temperature is maintained at 23-25 ​​° C.

Seedling care

It is not difficult to grow a seedling of cucumbers, the main thing is not to let the soil dry out, apply top dressing in a timely manner and regularly turn relative to the light source so that young cucumbers do not grow one-sided. When the seedlings have 3 real leaves, you can start hardening them. To do this, periodically remove the film shelter, then put it on the window with the window open, and then take it out to the loggia, if there is no frost.

Photo: screenshot of Vosaduli.ru


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