Information About Amaryllis Hippeastrum

Information About Amaryllis Hippeastrum

Amaryllis Bulb Rot – What Causes Rotten Amaryllis Bulbs

By Tonya Barnett, (Author of FRESHCUTKY)

Like many potted plants, diseases and issues related to fungal infections can be detrimental to the development of the plant and may even cause it to die before it is able to bloom. Amaryllis bulb rot is one such issue. Learn more about this problem in the following article.

Separating Amaryllis Plants: How To Divide Amaryllis Bulbs In The Garden

By Darcy Larum, Landscape Designer

Like many bulbs, in time and with the right environmental conditions, outdoor amaryllis bulbs will reproduce and naturalize. Amaryllis plant division is not only a way to control amaryllis colonies, but it also keeps plants healthy. Click here to learn more.

Amaryllis Seed Propagation: How To Plant An Amaryllis Seed

By Liz Baessler

If you have some patience, you can produce and germinate your own amaryllis seed pods. Learn more about amaryllis seed propagation and how to plant an amaryllis seed in the article that follows. Click here for more information.

Staking An Amaryllis: Types Of Amaryllis Support Stakes

By Teo Spengler

The tall amaryllis stalks grow from bulbs, and each stalk bears four huge blooms. If your blooming plant gets top heavy, you might need to learn about staking an amaryllis. Click this article for information about what to use for amaryllis plant support.

Soil For Amaryllis Plants – What Kind Of Soil Does Amaryllis Need

By Liz Baessler

Because it blooms in winter or early spring, amaryllis is almost always kept in a pot indoors, so you have more say in the kind of soil it grows in. So what kind of soil does amaryllis need? Learn about amaryllis soil requirements in this article.

Amaryllis Flower Varieties: Different Types Of Amaryllis

By Mary H. Dyer, Credentialed Garden Writer

Amaryllis is available in a variety of shapes and colors; in fact, almost too many different types of amaryllis to count. Click this article to learn about just a few of the many amaryllis flower varieties on the market.

Amaryllis Forcing Indoors: How To Force Amaryllis Bulbs In Soil

By Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

There are some schools of thought that say forcing amaryllis bulbs in soil versus water is the best method. Here are some tips on how to force amaryllis bulbs in soil for a successful project that will brighten your home and your mood.

Amaryllis Care After Flowering: Learn About Post Bloom Care Of Amaryllis

By Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

Once the amaryllis flowers are gone, the plant can still provide a tropical look for months. All that is needed is good post bloom care of amaryllis and you can enjoy the plant while it stores energy for the next year's flowers. Click here for more information.

Amaryllis Care Instructions: How To Care For An Amaryllis

By Brandi Brown

If you know how to care for an amaryllis, you can replenish your bulb after flowering and guide the amaryllis through additional growing seasons. Growing amaryllis indoors takes work, but this article will help.


Hippeastrum, Amaryllis 'Lady Jane'

Category:

Water Requirements:

Average Water Needs Water regularly do not overwater

Sun Exposure:

Foliage:

This plant is resistant to deer

Foliage Color:

Height:

Spacing:

Hardiness:

USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F)

USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F)

USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)

USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)

USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)

USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)

USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)

USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)

Where to Grow:

Can be grown as an annual

Suitable for growing in containers

Danger:

All parts of plant are poisonous if ingested

Bloom Color:

Bloom Characteristics:

Flowers are good for cutting

This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds

Bloom Size:

Bloom Time:

Other details:

Soil pH requirements:

Patent Information:

Propagation Methods:

By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets)

Seed Collecting:

Allow pods to dry on plant break open to collect seeds

Seed does not store well sow as soon as possible

Regional

This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:


Hippeastrum, Amaryllis 'Red Lion'

Category:

Water Requirements:

Average Water Needs Water regularly do not overwater

Sun Exposure:

Foliage:

Foliage Color:

Height:

Spacing:

Hardiness:

USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)

USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)

USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)

Where to Grow:

Can be grown as an annual

Suitable for growing in containers

Danger:

All parts of plant are poisonous if ingested

Bloom Color:

Bloom Characteristics:

Flowers are good for cutting

Bloom Size:

Bloom Time:

Other details:

Soil pH requirements:

Patent Information:

Propagation Methods:

By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets)

From seed direct sow after last frost

Seed Collecting:

N/A: plant does not set seed, flowers are sterile, or plants will not come true from seed

Regional

This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:

South Plainfield, New Jersey

Kure Beach, North Carolina

Summerville, South Carolina

Gardeners' Notes:

On Jan 4, 2014, eolivas103 from Las Cruces, NM (Zone 8a) wrote:

I actually planted this in my garden, one Spring, 2 years ago. The first year, I just grew leaves and all leaves died during the winter. But last year, come Spring, I had these beautiful red blooms. This winter all leaves died back but a few. Curious to see what type of show it will put on this Spring. I know I should probably lift it for Winter but it is in somewhat of a protected area next to cement so I am hopeful it continues to perform well inspite of not lifting. The bloom on this is so pretty in real life, it has convinced me to start growing Amaryllis indoors as well.

On Nov 16, 2010, fireflyintexas from New Braunfels, TX wrote:

I bought my Red Lion because I spotted these bags of Amaryllises, and my eye was riveted to one in particular because, there in the bag, this bulb was BLOOMING! No green, no long roots. just the brown bulb and this BEAUTIFUL velvet red bloom begging someone to see it and take it home and plant it. Which I did. Happily. Glad I did. This amaryllis has been amazing. It started growing and greening up immediately and has grown faster than any of my other amaryllis I've had. and in three years, it has bloomed every year, bigger and better than the last and has put on a couple of pup bulbs as well, and THEY are getting big too! Like parent, like child. The foliage is beautiful and the blooms are breathtaking! I have it planted in a semi-sunny-shady area that is well-drained and fee. read more d it a few times a year with plain ol' 13-13-13 lawn fertilizer and it is doing great. A Wonderful plant.

On Mar 26, 2009, holeth from Corpus Christi, TX (Zone 9a) wrote:

It took some practice: my first few tries were sterile, because I let the seed sit around too long, or didn't pollinate right. (I quickly learned that most bulb seeds have to be planted within a week or two of ripening/harvest. I've since heard that this can be extended to about a month with refrigeration, but I wouldn't push it beyond that.) I got a few sprouts from the next batch, but I didn't res. read more earch the hz, and they died in the fall.

The next bloom cycle I got 133 seedlings. 30 died when a tray of pots were knocked over & crushed. I kept the "pick of the litter." I gave 50 to a charity yard sale, and 50 to the local Master Gardeners plant swap. I nursed the 2 runts back to health and gave them to a neighbor.

After borrowing space and adding in the cost of pots and soil, I decided to take a break. Right now, I trade my seeds away to people who can use them for landscaping & genetics research. If I ever graduate from apt life, I'll go back to keeping an occasional "pick of the litter."

The plants take a different amount of time to mature from seedling to flowering envy of the neighborhood. In Miami, it's about 18 months 2 years max. Here in PA, the "pick of the litter" matured in 4 years in an east window, and most of its siblings will mature sometime this year. The official word I got was "3 to 5 years in PA." Depending on the light, water, & fertilizer, it just varies. They seem to take all the light they can get, and then it's just a proportional amount of the other factors.

The great thing is, once they're mature, they keep blooming every 12 - 18 months with proper care. They don't need any special cold period or cutting back. I've read that stuff, and maybe it's needed to force a bloom for a special timing, but just to get a gorgeous flower once a year, all they need is a 6 to 8 in pot, a sunny window, weekly watering, and an occasional feeding.

On Jun 15, 2008, goofybulb from Richland, MI (Zone 5b) wrote:

happily growing in Miami, either in pots or in the ground. As long as one keeps watering, it is evergreen here.

On Feb 10, 2005, kdjoergensen from Waxhaw (Charlotte), NC (Zone 7b) wrote:

A very interesting plant to grow. It can be re-flowered by harvested in fall before first frost and allowing leaves to die back. 3-4 months later the flower scapes will appear at the nose of the bulb at which time the plant can re-potted and brought to flower.

This requires that the bulb has been given atleast 6-8 months (longer is ok) growing period (with green leaves) during which it is given plenty of sun, water, and fertilizer. These plants are heavy feeders so don't skimp.

In fall harvest bulbs before frost and allow leaves to die back. After leaves have died back, they can be cut off at the nose and the bulb stored in a place out of direct sunlight, but protected from frost. Store moderately cool (room temperatures or heated basement) for 3-4 months.
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When the flower scapes appear at the nose of the bulb, it can either be re-potted immediately and started back into growth, or - if later bloom is desired - keep it at temperatures around 40 F which is a holding temperature. E.g. at this time, you can put the bulb in the fridge to DELAY flowering. You can generally not encouarge the bulb to advance flowering, but once flower scapes show, you can hold them back by storing cool (this is not a vernalization requirement similar to that of spring flowering bulbs like tulips, but purely a way to delay flowering until desired).

After the amaryllis is repotted, it will typically flower within 3-5 weeks. After flowering, deadhead the flower scapes but continue to grow the plant green until after last chance of frost, when you can transition the plant outdoors. Plant it in full sun.

The 3-4 months rest period act as a "programming" to induce flowering. However, you do not need to give the plant a rest period to re-flower. You can continue to grow it green indoors as a houseplant, or in greenhouse, at temperatures above 55F and eventually the plant will flower on it's own. The rest period only acts as a way to program it to flower at a specific time.

These plants are unfortunately very heavily disposed to red blotch disease. Water carefully and avoid planting bulb too deep. Best to let 1/2 of the bulb stay above ground. Choose a pot which diameter is about 2" larger than the diameter of the bulb.

A fantastic and rewarding growing experience with huge showy flowers.

On Feb 4, 2005, cacti_lover from Henderson, NV (Zone 9b) wrote:

This is one of our favorite flowers to plant right after Thanksgiving, along with Christmas cactus. We were fortunate to obtain a bulb that has two stalks with 4 flowers on one and 5 on the other. I just follow the direction form the kit it came with. It is so easy. The flowers are not scented and are about 8" across. Now that the flowers are faded, I cut off the stalks and grow the bulb with just the leaves. Hopefully by the end of the year we can repeat the process.

On Jan 14, 2005, Breezymeadow from Culpeper, VA (Zone 7a) wrote:

I purchased a planting "kit" of this Amaryllis back in early December, & what a show it is putting on for me right now!! Currently there is a 2-1/2-foot tall stalk with 4 HUGE bright velvety red flowers, with another bloom stalk already almost a foot on the way.

I will say, however, that contrary to the above-referenced info on this variety, it is NOT fragrant.

Would also like to add that this bulb kit, although purchased locally, came from "Van Bourgondien Dutch Bulbs", which has a horrible rating here for mail order. While they may be terrible for mail order, please don't hesitate to purchase bulbs from them which might be available to you locally - all of the local bulbs I've purchased (Amaryllis, paperwhites, tulips, daffodils) have come from them, & all. read more have performed beautifully.

On Dec 15, 2004, hanna1 from Castro Valley, CA (Zone 9a) wrote:

I purchased one on sale 2 weeks ago, it's growing really fast! The other I bought a couple months ago and just brought it in the house, I can't wait to see what color it is, it was a yard sale, she didn't know the color, so maybe a Holiday surprise.

On Jun 6, 2004, nick89 from Tallahassee, FL (Zone 8b) wrote:

I live near Huntsville,AL and many people buy these amaryllis half off after christmas and plant them after last frost. They bloom here around the middle or end of May and into early June and the big red flowers are tropical in appearance. The only problem I have is a rust on the leaves. With a good layer of mulch they can survive to zone 7.

This perennial also grows well in the UK

On Dec 1, 2003, Emaewest from Timberlea, NS (Zone 6a) wrote:

This amaryllis is commonly available around November and December for use as a holiday accent or for gift giving. The large, showy blooms are a warm shade of red that really helps perk up a dull, cold winter! With a small amount of effort, they will bloom year after year. They like a deep pot that is only slightly larger around than the bulb. To rebloom, I allow the foliage to continue growing through to the end of summer, stop watering, let the foliage die back, then put it away (closet, basement--someplace where it won't freeze) and forget about it for at least a month. Bring it out at the beginning of December and start watering again and it will usually bloom for the holidays.


PICTURES

Photo: Yundengogo / Shutterstock

Giant Amadeus
(Hippeastrum ‘Giant Amadeus’)

Best assets: Double-blooming, with enormous frilly white flowers enhanced by rose-colored veining and pale green throats.

Height: 1 to 2 feet

Flower size: 10 inches

Time from planting to flowering: 6 to 10 weeks

Photo: Catherine M Hollander / Shutterstock

Red Lion
(Hippeastrum ‘Red Lion’)

Best assets: Velvety crimson petals create a breathtaking holiday display.

Also try:Hippeastrum ‘Ferrari’, another holiday classic with deep red blooms, set off by white anthers.

Height: 18 to 24 inches

Flower size: to 8 inches

Time from planting to flowering: 6 to 10 weeks

Photo: Sarycheva Olesia / Shutterstock

Minerva
(Hippeastrum ‘Minerva’)

Best assets: Extra-large lipstick-red petals with prominent white markings forming the shape of a star. Grows up to 2 feet tall.

Also try:Hippeastrum ‘Stargazer’, another bright-red bloomer with well-defined white stars.

Height: 18 to 24 inches

Flower size:8 inches

Time from planting to flowering: 6 to 8 weeks

Photo: Anne Kitzman / Shutterstock

Apple Blossom
(Hippeastrum ‘Apple Blossom’)

Best assets: A midwinter breath of spring, with creamy white blossoms, soft pink veining, and lime green throats. Each flower stalk produces four or more blooms.

Height: 18 to 24 inches

Flower size:7 to 8 inches

Time from planting to flowering: 6 to 8 weeks

Photo: george photo cm / Shutterstock

Alfresco
(Hippeastrum ‘Alfresco’)

Best assets: Sumptuous double white flowers accented by chartreuse-green eyes. Shorter, stouter stems provide good proportional balance and support.

Height: 12 to 14 inches

Flower size:6 inches

Time from planting to flowering: 4 to 6 weeks

Photo: Flying Mouse / Shutterstock

Picotee
(Hippeastrum ‘Picotee’)

Best assets: Pure lily-white petals crisply outlined in red. Elegant and sophisticated.

Height: 20 to 24 inches

Flower size:6 inches

Time from planting to flowering: 7 weeks


For Blooms Next Year

Amaryllis can be encouraged to blossom again the following year. It takes a little planning and extra care, but is quite simple and very rewarding. After the flowers have faded, cut the flower stalk to within 1" of the top of the bulb. Continue to water and feed the plant regularly with a liquid houseplant fertilizer. Amaryllis will grow a number of leaves during the spring and summer. This will help the plant produce energy for the following year's bloom. In mid-August, begin withholding water and let the foliage die back naturally as the pot dries out completely.

Store the dormant bulb in a cool, dark and dry place for a minimum of eight weeks longer is fine. Then, about six to eight weeks before you want the amaryllis to flower again, repot the bulb in fresh potting soil and place it in bright, indirect light. Resume watering — sparingly at first. Once you see new growth, increase watering and look forward to the upcoming flower show. By following these basic care guidelines, you will be able to encourage your amaryllis to flower year after year.


Watch the video: Complete Guide on Growing Amaryllis Bulb. How to grow Hippeastrum Vittatum. Start to End. MV