5 ways to prolong the fruiting of bell peppers until the coldest days

5 ways to prolong the fruiting of bell peppers until the coldest days

To harvest bell peppers before the cold weather, you need to follow the basic rules for caring for this vegetable. It is important to monitor the temperature, illumination of the beds and other factors affecting the formation of fruits.

Monitor temperature

Peppers are heat-loving plants, for the normal formation and ripening of fruits, it is necessary that the ambient temperature be kept within + 20-30 ° C. But in late August and early September, it gradually begins to get colder, which has a bad effect on fruiting. As soon as the temperature drops to +15 ° C, development will slow down, and if the temperature drops below +13 ° C, the vegetable will stop growing altogether.

Cover the plantings with spunbond or other suitable material, mulch will do - straw, sawdust, humus, peat. This will help raise the temperature near the roots of the pepper and it will take longer to bear fruit.

Give the pepper a lot of sun

A vegetable requires not only warmth, but also a large amount of light, the lack of which leads to weakness and fragility of the branches, wilting of the ovaries. If the fruits have already formed, due to the lack of light, they will turn out to be small and tasteless. At the end of August and the beginning of September, daylight hours decrease, and the intensity of illumination gradually decreases.

In order for the peppers to receive enough sunlight, the place to plant them must be chosen in advance. Flat and open areas that are well lit throughout the summer season are suitable. If the pepper is already growing in the wrong place, try removing the surrounding plants to keep them out of shade.

Feed with calcium

By the end of the summer cottage season, the soil gradually begins to deplete, because of this, new ovaries are forming less and less. To prolong fruiting, you need to use a balanced complex of fertilizers. During this period, the plant needs elements such as phosphorus and potassium, as well as zinc, boron and magnesium. But it's even more important to remember about calcium.

If you do not feed the plantings of bell pepper with calcium, its fruits will begin to attack the top rot. To protect the plant, dilute 50 ml of calcium nitrate in 10 liters of water and treat the planting. The finished solution is enough for 1 sq. m.

Feed with magnesium

At the end of the summer season, in addition to calcium, peppers need magnesium, it is able to prolong fruiting. Dissolve 15 g of magnesium sulfate in 10 liters of warm water and carry out foliar feeding of the plants. m. landings.

Potassium magnesium or magnesium nitrate can be used instead of magnesium sulfate. Both types of fertilizers are prepared according to the instructions on the package. Please note that soil with a high salt content does not need additional magnesium fertilization.

Remove unnecessary

In order for the plant to redirect all nutrients to the ripening of already formed fruits, remove new ovaries, flower buds between side shoots, stepsons and even lower leaves from it. At the end of the season, these parts of the plant only waste its strength, thereby slowing down the ripening process of the crop.

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How to grow bell peppers

Do not forget to treat peppers from pests. The most common is the aphid. It feeds on plant sap, and if the plant is not processed in time, it will simply dry out.

Remember, peppers cannot be processed during fruiting. You need to spray the plant in the morning.

You can get rid of a spider mite with this tool: pass a glass of onion and a glass of garlic through a meat grinder, add a tablespoon of liquid soap there and dilute it all in 10 liters of water. It is possible to spray with such a solution at any stage of development.

Always wash your hands after making solutions. In case of contact with eyes, mucous membranes can be burned.

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In order for indoor pepper to please with its decorativeness and fruiting for a long time, it must be properly planted and properly looked after. It's worth starting with the correct selection of growing containers and soil.

The pot should be chosen with a volume of 3 to 7 liters. It can be plastic, but it is better to give preference to a ceramic container.

Indoor pepper prefers soil loose, nutritious, with a neutral level of acidity. The soil must pass water and air well. If you are planting your plants in purchased soil, then you should purchase the soil mixture recommended for planting Saintpaulias. When preparing soil for pepper on your own, you need to mix peat, garden soil and sand. It is recommended to add perlite or vermiculite to the soil, which prevent soil compaction and retain moisture. A prerequisite is a high layer of drainage from expanded clay, pebbles or fine gravel.

In the future, the following factors will affect the timing of fruiting:

  • lighting
  • room temperature
  • air circulation
  • humidity level
  • soil moisture level
  • regular feeding
  • periodic transplants
  • timeliness of harvest.

It is important to inspect the plant more often, to monitor its appearance, so that in case of problems, for example, the development of a disease or an attack by pests, treatment and rehabilitation can be started as early as possible.


Peppers need a lot of light. Insufficient lighting leads to premature shedding of fruits, poor growth, and deterioration in appearance. The plant is best grown on light windowsills that face the south, southwest, southeast side. Shading is required from direct sunlight.

Growing is possible on the north side, however, with additional illumination with phytolamps or fluorescent lamps.

Temperature regime

Longer fruiting will be in those plants that grow in cool conditions. And in stably cool - without sudden temperature changes.

The optimum temperature for the comfortable well-being of ornamental pepper is from + 15 ° C to + 20 ° C. If the plant stays in hot conditions for a long time, especially during fruiting, then the fruits will not stay on it for long.

However, temperature fluctuations especially affect the duration of the fruitful period. The operation of the air conditioner and heating devices has a negative effect. The difference between day and night temperatures should be no more than 4 ° C.

It is very important that air circulates well in the room where the peppers are grown. It is necessary to ventilate more often. When opening the window, it is important to make sure that the bush is not in the zone of influence of drafts, since the currents of cold air are one of the reasons for the reduction in the duration of fruiting. The pot with the plant should be placed away from the wall and from other ornamental crops. In summer, it is advisable to take it out into the fresh air, for example, on a loggia, balcony, veranda, terrace.

Maintaining air and soil moisture

Its growth, development, decorativeness and longevity depend on how comfortable the humidity of the air and soil will be for ornamental pepper. Therefore, it is important to monitor these indicators. Waterlogging, like a lack of moisture, is harmful to the plant. The soil in the pot should be constantly slightly moistened, but water stagnation should not be allowed. Each subsequent watering must be carried out immediately after the top layer of the earth dries up. Water for irrigation can be taken from the tap, but before using it, it must be defended for at least one day and heated to room temperature.

As for the air humidity, it must be kept within 50–75%. You can increase the humidity level by spraying from a spray bottle, placing a pot of pepper on a tray with moistened pebbles, and operating a household air humidifier. When spraying, care must be taken that drops do not fall on leaves and flowers.


Depleted soil leads to a deterioration in the growth of ornamental peppers, so it must be fed periodically. Correct feeding stimulates more abundant and long-term fruiting. If the pepper is grown for the purpose of human consumption, then it is better to feed it with organic fertilizers. Exclusively ornamental plants can be fertilized with mineral complexes developed for fruit-bearing vegetable crops. The recommended frequency of fertilization is once every 3-4 weeks into the pre-moistened soil.

It is necessary to apply ready-made fertilizers strictly following the manufacturer's instructions. It is better to feed with weaker formulations than to overdo it with the amount of nutrients, since an excess of them is dangerous for peppers.


Over time, the soil in the pot will become as depleted as possible, and the root system will take up almost all the space in the pot, so the pepper must be repotted periodically. Transplantation of young perennial plants is carried out after fruiting once a year. Mature bushes can be replanted less frequently. The transplant must be carried out by the transshipment method, without destroying the earthen coma, so as not to damage the root system.


Timely harvesting also allows you to prolong fruiting. Ornamental peppers must be torn off until they begin to shrivel. The pods should be harvested gradually as they ripen. This will allow the plant to redirect forces to the formation of new ovaries. It is recommended to leave no more than 4-5 fruits on the plant.

So, you can prolong the fruiting of ornamental pepper if you take good care of it, maintain stable favorable conditions and not overload the bush with fruits. In this case, the pods will remain on the bush from September to January, and possibly even until spring.

How long can indoor peppers bear fruit?

After the fruits of ornamental peppers dry out and fall off, the bushes are usually just thrown away. But you can stretch their life in the interior for as long as possible - with constant attention and care. Before flowering and fruiting, peppers are predictable, vegetating for 90-120 days before the start of the "show". But after the fruits ripen, how much the peppers will "stretch" is entirely on the conscience of their owners.

If you don't find the right conditions and carelessly care for the bushes, the peppers can dry out in a few weeks. And with good care, their fruits will last for many months - almost until spring. The traditional "peppery" season lasts from September to January.

9 main factors affect the duration of fruiting of indoor peppers:

  • lighting
  • temperature regime
  • stability of conditions
  • ventilation of premises
  • substrate moisture
  • air humidity
  • feeding
  • timeliness of harvest
  • the purity of the plant.

Let's try to figure out how to create optimal conditions for the fruiting of ornamental peppers and what kind of ideal in care you should strive for.

Peppers can dry out in weeks without proper care.

Shape the pepper bush

The correct formation of the bush will help to increase the yield and prolong the fruiting of pepper. It is advisable to remove on plants every 3-5 days:

  • extra ovaries
  • stepchildren (unnecessary shoots in the leaf axils) growing inside the bush
  • flower buds between side shoots
  • barren shoots
  • diseased, old and damaged leaves
  • lateral shoots, flowers and ovaries below the branching of the main stem.

It is better to carry out the removal in the morning in dry sunny weather, so that the bush will recover faster. After the procedure, the nutrients in the plant will be redistributed and will be directed to the formation of a strong ovary and fruit. It is also a good prevention of pests and diseases.

In the second half of August, stop picking off the leaves under the fruiting brushes, and pinch the tops of the shoots to direct the forces of the plant to ripen the fruits.

If the bush bloomed well, but there are not many ovaries, it may be too thick and it does not have enough light, so it is worth thinning it out a little. But remember, no more than 1-2 leaves can be removed in one procedure, otherwise the water balance in the plant will be disturbed, and the forming fruits will crack.

Under the weight of the fruit, pepper bushes often sag and can break, fruiting will slow down. Therefore, check if the plants are securely tied to the supports. Despite the fact that the stalks of the pepper are lignified, they are rather fragile, and even a slight load can lead to breakage of the shoot. And, of course, in no case should you step on the leaves or stems of pepper if you want it to bear fruit longer.

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