Ivy video - care, transplant, reproduction, species

Ivy video - care, transplant, reproduction, species

About plants Published: April 20, 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:

Ivy Videos - useful tips and advice from an experienced grower: proper care, the season for transplanting and how to carry it out. Told about the Ivy species. The plant is very widespread, so it will not be superfluous to learn about it - who knows, maybe you decide to get yourself such a "pet" ...

Ivy video

Sections: Shade Tolerant Videos

Peonies: growing and caring for the garden, breeding methods

Peonies have an unforgettable color and aroma, the cultivation and care of which are described in detail in our material. You will find information on how to plant and care for ornamental shrubs, what methods of plant propagation exist, as well as how to rejuvenate the shrub yourself.

Viburnum (lat.Viburnum)

Evergreen, deciduous shrubs or small trees with white or pinkish flowers. The berries are red with a fairly large stone, collected in bunches. About 200 species of viburnum are known.

Peony (lat.Paeonia) is a representative of herbaceous perennials of the Peony family. The culture is decorative, used to decorate the garden. Growing peonies in the country and in the garden is popular, since caring for them is not difficult, and some varieties of shrubs can delight you up to 50 years.

Kalanchoe care at home


When cultivated in indoor conditions, the optimal length of daylight hours for Kalanchoe is about 12 hours. In this regard, in the warm season for its cultivation, it is recommended to choose window sills of western or eastern orientation. In winter, it is recommended to rearrange the bush to the south window. If in the cold season the daylight hours are not long enough, then the flower will need to be supplemented, for this additional artificial lighting is used.

Temperature regime

Kalanchoe can grow well at almost any air temperature. But you should not go to extremes! In summer, temperatures can vary from 18 to 28 degrees, and in winter - from 14 to 18 degrees. If the temperature in the room drops to 10 degrees (and below), then the plant can get sick and die. During cold wintering (14-18 degrees) flower buds are laid.


For irrigation, use warm, soft and well-settled water. Watering is carried out after the top layer of the soil mixture dries out, but make sure that the earthen coma does not dry out, as this provokes massive flying around the foliage. In winter, watering is carried out after three or four days have passed after the soil mixture has dried. Experts advise to water the flower through the pallet.


The culture does not need spraying, because it grows well with air humidity normal for living rooms. However, it responds well to humidification from a spray bottle on hot days. But if you do not spray it in the heat, then nothing terrible will happen. The leaf plates of such a plant are fleshy, sometimes there is pubescence on their surface, so the moisture evaporates very slowly.


It is necessary to feed the bush only in the summer, and even in the autumn, when its buds are forming. To do this, you can use special fertilizers for cacti. In summer, Kalanchoe is fed with organic matter twice a month, and mineral fertilizers - once every 7 days.


Since most of the Kalanchoe species discard old leaf plates, such shoots can, if desired, be cut off and planted in the same or in an individual container. And in other species, the stems may fall over the edge of the planting container, in this case you can also cut them off and plant next to them, but you can not touch them.


In order for the Kalanchoe to please you with lush flowering, the duration of daylight hours in spring and summer should be no more than 10-12 hours. However, the lighting must be very bright. In some species, flowers can be cut and placed in a vase of water, where they can stand for a relatively long time. After flowering is over, some of the shoots can be cut off to form a neat bush. If necessary, the cut stems can be rooted.

Possible vegetative and generative reproduction of the war. Seed propagation is not very efficient, as the seeds of hybrid varieties do not inherit maternal traits. In early spring or late autumn, it can be easily transplanted with root shoots. The dug out rhizomes are treated with a fungicide, and the places of the cuts are treated with coal. They are planted at a distance of 20 cm and a depth of up to 5 cm, or stored in boxes with sand (peat) until spring. Propagating in the fall, young seedlings must be covered with sawdust or dry leaves for the winter. They will bloom in the first summer. It is quite easy to propagate by cuttings. To do this, in the spring, cut off the stems with several buds, remove all the leaves except two or three upper ones and place them in a solution with a root formation stimulator.


The root system is very aggressive and can grow rapidly. Calistegia is capable of destroying nearby growing plants. Therefore, when planting, its roots should be protected with sheets of metal or slate. Too little space can kill the plant. In the summer, during an active growing season, it is better not to transplant. In spring or autumn, the vine will take root and grow well.


All species, with the exception of fluffy calistegia, winter well. In the case of a frosty and snowless winter, they are mulched with fallen leaves, peat or spruce branches. In early spring, if there is a threat of frost, young shoots are covered with a film.

How yucca reproduces at home

In order to propagate yucca at home, there are several ways:

  • seed propagation
  • propagation by green cuttings
  • reproduction by parts of stems.

All these methods can give excellent results, just each grower needs to choose the best one for himself, since some of them require some experience and patience, but the result will be seen much faster.

Seed propagation

A bag of yucca seeds can be found at the regular seed kiosk. As a rule, there are 3-5 seeds in one bag. Yucca seeds are large enough, glossy, black. In order for them to germinate faster, it is recommended to carry out the scarification procedure, or, simply speaking, slightly damage the seed shell with sandpaper or a needle. It is tedious to do this carefully so as not to damage directly the seed itself, which is under the shell. Then the seeds are planted in a moist substrate.

It is better to take a light, breathable soil mixture for germinating seeds. The seeds are buried in the soil by 3-5 mm. The optimum temperature for seed germination should be at least 25 degrees, so it is advisable to start sowing in late spring, early summer. To maintain optimal humidity and temperature, you can cover the seed dish with foil or glass. But since yucca is very sensitive to waterlogging, the crops must be aired every day, removing all accumulated condensate. As a rule, good quality yucca seeds have a fairly good germination capacity. After two true leaves appear, the seedlings are planted in separate pots. The most significant disadvantage of this method is slow growth; it will be possible to get a less ornamental plant from seeds only in a few years.

Propagation by green cuttings

Propagation by green cuttings is the quickest and easiest way to get a new yucca plant. To do this, take either a completely rosette from the top of the head, breaking it "with a heel", or cut off a part of an elongated green stem with leaves. The cuttings are allowed to dry for a while, and then 2-3 lower leaves are removed. After that, it is planted either directly into the substrate, or kept in a container with water until the first roots appear. If the stalk is in water, you need to make sure that it does not start to rot, it is best to add several tablets of activated carbon to the water. It is also recommended to carry out this procedure in the spring, when all plants are most active. When planting the cuttings in the ground, you need to ensure that the soil is constantly slightly moist, but without an overabundance. For rooting, it is better to use a mixture where coarse sand predominates. The stalk can be placed in a bag to maintain moisture, but do not forget to ventilate it regularly. This method of propagation is good when you need to rejuvenate an old, elongated plant. You can get 2 or more cuttings from one stem. It can also be used when the plant has rotted roots or stems.

Propagation by parts of stems

This method is the most time consuming and requires certain skills. But when using it, you can immediately get a small tree. You need to take an adult plant and cut off a part of the stem with apical rosettes, this will be a new plant. The remaining stem, depending on its length, is divided into several parts, one stalk should be at least 20 cm long. All sections are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, to which you can add root formation stimulants, for example, "Kornevin". Then the slices are dried for some time, and then planted in the ground.

It is imperative to pay attention to the fact that the cutting must be planted correctly, that is, where the top was, it remains top, and the lower part will fit into the substrate. The substrate is taken loose. As in the previous cases, it is very important here to create optimal humidity. After the rooting of the cuttings, buds begin to wake up on them, usually at home it is possible to awaken 1-2 buds. But you can try using plant growth stimulants, such as:

  • zircon
  • epin
  • heteroauxin
  • cytokinin paste.

These stimulants can be applied pointwise to the kidneys, or they can be diluted according to the instructions and watered or sprayed on the cutting. In this case, the pot must be kept in the brightest place, after several buds have hatched, you need to regularly feed the plant and often turn it over in relation to the light. Otherwise, only 1-2 of the strongest will develop, and the rest will stop growing. The same procedure can be done with the remaining hemp in the pot after pruning. Thus, using this method, you can get several ready-made plants at once.

Yucca transplant at home

One of the conditions for caring for a yucca flower at home is a transplant. It is necessary, first of all, for adult plants, which very quickly deplete the earth and completely entwine it with roots. It is advisable to transplant at least once every two years, while taking a pot of larger diameter. When the yucca grows very large and transplanting an even larger capacity is simply impossible, you can get by by replacing the top layer of earth in an old pot. In order to less injure the roots during transplantation, a couple of hours before the start of the procedure, the earthen lump must be thoroughly shed with water. The land for planting yucca is taken loose and breathable. Most universal color mixes will work for this. At the bottom of the pot, a layer of expanded clay 2-3 cm deep must be poured. This will create additional protection against waterlogging of the plant roots.

Discuss and share your experience in the comments. Watch a video about breeding and transplanting a yucca at home

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